I added a little more to my post above.

I believe George and Rich found that immediately after the breakdown, the oil level was low, although it was fine 15 or so miles earlier at the turnaround. A bunch of oil had blown out the dipstick tube. Later that night, the oil level had risen, undoubtedly water fed.

 

Uh, yeah? It had a couple local Bay Area owners before that.

 

Mark Anderson to Seth W to Steve S to Tim D.

The 928 was hit and repaired.......a very good repair....no one reported this damage to the next owner and but it is easily identified by a knowledgeable person.

Marc

 

When an engine fails, very rarely is the engine "full" of milkshake, it is usually completely separated, with milkshake in the oil galleys and some in the pan.

Almost all head gasket failures that I have seen have little to no milkshake, but about 1 gal of water in the case and sometimes a severe score on one or two cyls. Often, the dipstick looks perfect to the eye, except the "liquid" on the bottom is not oil.

Overall, about a pint or so of milkshake.

Check your oil breather tank.

marc

 

Put Ron G. between Mark and Seth and Ron is who "rolled the 1/4s" with a bat his first attempt at such... I never noticed any body repair when it was in Socal but maybe I am not a "knowledgeable" person ! Good chance Seth had the rear wheel lips fixed it would have made HIM crazy but who knows ? The GTS rear cover was because a customer with the same color car WANTED a factory original paint rear cover for his car which had some damage ....he really wanted it ! So Mark pulled it off his car and "upgraded" for free.

 

Interesting ... we rolled the remaining three fenders recently to mate to new tires and wheels, and the one rear 1/4 was a factory late model 1/4...a factory roll job.

Two very detailed folks missed this one....

 

Interesting I wonder when that happened ? because when Ron rolled the 1/4s they were UGLY wavy and dented. I was SHOCKED when I saw it because I see bad body work from 10 feet away ...too many years of doing body and paint work in my youth.

 

Nope...all fenders were perfectly stock, including the late model 1/4 on the rear.

Marc

 

So the engine in question had the rod bearings go away because of badly rolled fenders? I guess I'm not following this too well.
Glenn

 

Heh! Good one Glenn.

Folks, the motor is apart except for the crank. The crank still turns VERY hard with all the pistons gone.

All of the pistons are scored, all of cylinders are scored, one of each VERY badly. I think it is 6, but some of the others are pretty horrible. All of the rod bearing show damage even though they were brand new. It's all toasted. The crank too, even though we don't have it out yet.

The heads look fine.

 

That just plain SUCKS !

 

Yeah, we were hoping for the crank as well as the heads to be salvageable. The crank got nailed either by the heat and/or bearing debris in the oil passages. Jim plans to remove it anyway. Perhaps it could be salvaged but the cost of repair would exceed just buying a decent crank or shortblock.

It looks like there are issues with adapting an 85-6 shortblock. We know it would raise the CR a lot, which might be fun anyway, but the flywheel and starter mount are at least a few incompatibilties. So, we need an 87+ shortblock, right?

 

Yes and no. You are correct that the 86 block would take some modification but they are much easier to come by and cheaper so you may want to go that route. We seldom get good 87 up short blocks so they do command a bit of a premium. I have several with thrust bearing damage if someone knows how to repair that.

 

Sounds like we're in the same boat...

 

While not as dramatic the end result is much the same, both need short blocks.