82' Trans./Diff. Query(s)
08-27-2001, 06:28 PM
#1
User
Thread Starter
82' Trans./Diff. Query(s)
Guru's,
Sending for the CD's right after this post,
found the stamps. Honest!
At the front of the Trans. (3speed) where the oil cooler lines live I have a leak - heresy, shame, bite your tongue!-.
Seems to be right at the Banjo bolts.
Is there a seal or copper washer there that might be the cause of my shame. This is a small leak with zero drops hitting the concrete even after parking overnight. If so can I break torque and then re-torque? And that would be? Does anyone know, off hand, what size allen/star wrench to remove the Diff. inspection plug? Snow weren't you just there?
Gotta go squirt more penetrating oil on the 02 sensor and load the .357 Dan Wesson with some home rolled.
John S. 82' Auto. 'Pattycakes'
Sending for the CD's right after this post,
found the stamps. Honest!
At the front of the Trans. (3speed) where the oil cooler lines live I have a leak - heresy, shame, bite your tongue!-.
Seems to be right at the Banjo bolts.
Is there a seal or copper washer there that might be the cause of my shame. This is a small leak with zero drops hitting the concrete even after parking overnight. If so can I break torque and then re-torque? And that would be? Does anyone know, off hand, what size allen/star wrench to remove the Diff. inspection plug? Snow weren't you just there?
Gotta go squirt more penetrating oil on the 02 sensor and load the .357 Dan Wesson with some home rolled.
John S. 82' Auto. 'Pattycakes'
08-27-2001, 11:10 PM
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Three Wheelin'
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In the market place today there are many good transmission flushing machines, that utilize two methods of flushing. The first one, which I don't recommend, is the cooler line machines which is simply disconnecting the lines and pumping transmission fluid in and out of the transmission. This method only achieves an exchanged rate of 73%. The other method, which I do recommend, is transmission flush, dropping the pan, changing the filter and draining the torque converter (928 has a torque converter drain plug). The fluid exchange rate with this method is 85%. The bottom line is when you drop the pan you always do a more effective job, because that’s were the contaminants reside. Transmission fluid is the life blood of an automatic transmission. An incorrect fluid level, high or low, can cause foaming, which causes the fluid to overheat and oxidize and affects the operation of the transmission. The 928 has a high temperature transmission. The best fluid to run is synthetic transmission fluid, Amsoil or Swepo, not cheap.
John if your going to drain the trans, drop the pan and change the filter, it’s easy. The pan gasket is made of rubber, new ones don’t fit right . JUST STRETCH IT, by pulling
it a little. 928 INTERNATIONAL Trans kit 3speed #123 270 00 98 Torque pan bolts
71lbs filter bolts 35lbs . You can fill the trans and diff. With a suction gun.
I agree , the torque converter plug could pose a problem ,best leave it to the so called experts
Steve.C
John if your going to drain the trans, drop the pan and change the filter, it’s easy. The pan gasket is made of rubber, new ones don’t fit right . JUST STRETCH IT, by pulling
it a little. 928 INTERNATIONAL Trans kit 3speed #123 270 00 98 Torque pan bolts
71lbs filter bolts 35lbs . You can fill the trans and diff. With a suction gun.
I agree , the torque converter plug could pose a problem ,best leave it to the so called experts
Steve.C
08-27-2001, 11:28 PM
#3
User
Thread Starter
Snow,
Than you kind sir will order washers on the morrow. Upper, Si. Lower, Si. Was ist das TC gepluggen? I'll go look right now!
Joking about the pan bolts and silicon. At one time I was a master of the drill and tap.
And if you didn't know already... any vinegar/sour smelling silicon or Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealants are mildly corrosive and a bad additive when combining dissimilar metals -electrolytic corrosion- . Its what caused the fretting corrosion around the rivets on that Hawaiian Air bird that went cabriolet a few years ago.
Hey, the new 02 sensor lowered the idle a few ticks, All hesitation, and what I thought was a re-occuring intake/flapper valve near stall condition upon rapid braking, gone. Very, very, smooth acceleration, to boot.
Greg, Lucked out with penetrating oil and long 7/8" combo wrench - no loss of blood.
Some scoring on right rear rotor,no bearing problems, Boots pliable/no rips. C/V joints
like new. Still have the TT clunk though.
Also, developed a lifter tap but appears to pump up after a few minutes. Possibly the mobile 1 cleaned things up more than I planned on.
Thanks again to the both of you.
John S. 82' Auto. 'Pattycakes'
Than you kind sir will order washers on the morrow. Upper, Si. Lower, Si. Was ist das TC gepluggen? I'll go look right now!
Joking about the pan bolts and silicon. At one time I was a master of the drill and tap.
And if you didn't know already... any vinegar/sour smelling silicon or Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) sealants are mildly corrosive and a bad additive when combining dissimilar metals -electrolytic corrosion- . Its what caused the fretting corrosion around the rivets on that Hawaiian Air bird that went cabriolet a few years ago.
Hey, the new 02 sensor lowered the idle a few ticks, All hesitation, and what I thought was a re-occuring intake/flapper valve near stall condition upon rapid braking, gone. Very, very, smooth acceleration, to boot.
Greg, Lucked out with penetrating oil and long 7/8" combo wrench - no loss of blood.
Some scoring on right rear rotor,no bearing problems, Boots pliable/no rips. C/V joints
like new. Still have the TT clunk though.
Also, developed a lifter tap but appears to pump up after a few minutes. Possibly the mobile 1 cleaned things up more than I planned on.
Thanks again to the both of you.
John S. 82' Auto. 'Pattycakes'
08-28-2001, 01:08 AM
#5
User
Thread Starter
Thanks Steve,
TC plug now understood.
Fluid levels o.k. the sight RANGE was covered with what appeared to be brake dust.
Cleaned up easily with a soapy rag. AS to the TC/Diff./Trans. has anyone tried jacking a sHARk up and turn the rear wheels in gear.
If there is little chance of damage it would SEEM like a better percentage of fluids SHOULD pump out. John on the cheap here: can the trans. cooler lines be blown out with low pressure (5-10psi)regulated air?
Definitely need those pubs.
Thanks
John S. 82' Auto. 'Pattycakes'
TC plug now understood.
Fluid levels o.k. the sight RANGE was covered with what appeared to be brake dust.
Cleaned up easily with a soapy rag. AS to the TC/Diff./Trans. has anyone tried jacking a sHARk up and turn the rear wheels in gear.
If there is little chance of damage it would SEEM like a better percentage of fluids SHOULD pump out. John on the cheap here: can the trans. cooler lines be blown out with low pressure (5-10psi)regulated air?
Definitely need those pubs.
Thanks
John S. 82' Auto. 'Pattycakes'
08-28-2001, 01:27 AM
#6
User
Thread Starter
Snow and Steve,
Do you guy's think a LARGE irrigation syringe(sp) with attached length of surgical tubing could be used to suck out and replace the trans/diff.hypoid fluids.
Ordering kit tomorrow. Will check out CD's and archives/links for my next project...
New H2O pump and belts
Later
JohnS. Pattycakes
Do you guy's think a LARGE irrigation syringe(sp) with attached length of surgical tubing could be used to suck out and replace the trans/diff.hypoid fluids.
Ordering kit tomorrow. Will check out CD's and archives/links for my next project...
New H2O pump and belts
Later
JohnS. Pattycakes
08-28-2001, 01:33 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
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John,
Glad to hear it went well. As far as the turning of the wheels trick, I believe that it MAY help empty out the trans a little more, BUT this is more up Steve's alley than mine. I know that when I had my old 4 spd out, the pan had been drained, but turning the input shaft by hand would start evacuating more fluid onto the garage floor.
YMMV.
Greg
Glad to hear it went well. As far as the turning of the wheels trick, I believe that it MAY help empty out the trans a little more, BUT this is more up Steve's alley than mine. I know that when I had my old 4 spd out, the pan had been drained, but turning the input shaft by hand would start evacuating more fluid onto the garage floor.
YMMV.
Greg
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08-28-2001, 04:31 AM
#8
Drifting
Hi John
I dont know if this will help any, but i did the trans service back in april and wrote about it on the listserve.
Heres a parphrased repost.
...I did the first auto transmission service.
Some observations
1. Total time for me to do the job - 5 hrs
a. 1/2 hr to clean the schmutz off every thing with degreaser.
b. 1/2 hr to properly jack the car off ground and remove rear wheels. Front wheels on ramps, jacked rear up by the cross member and put jack stands at the jack points. I did this very slowly and methdoically. When done i left the floor jack right where it was. Weight of the car was on 5 points.
c. 3/4 hr to drain pan and torque converter. Including time to rotate crankshaft. I finally broke down and asked father in law to crank the wrench for me so i wouldnt have to keep getting up.
d. 3/4 hr to R & R pan gasket and filter, and clean all parts
e. 1/2 hr to eat dinner
f. 2 hrs to refil the fluid. Including time to remove pan again because i didnt seat the gasket properly. Found out after the first quart of ATF started to seep out of the back of the pan onto the driveway. Got it all back together and the slow procedure of refilling via the reservior tube began in earnest. I used a 13 dollar drill pump i got at ACE harware. Worked flawlessly. Variable speed drill works best. Then the back and forth procedure of starting and stopping the car, filling some more etc etc etc. At the very end i just let the car run to warm the ATF so i could top it out at MAX HOT. (i think i got a little more in than i should have.) The last level check i did was slightly above MAX HOT.
2. The book on this says 8 liters of ATF. Mine only drained out 4 1/2 quarts maybe five, since i got some on the driveway (i refilled the empty ATF bottles to check.) I got 5 1/2 back in. Musta been a quart low.
3. Old ATF almost as clean and clear as new ATF. Just slightly darker in color, not burnt and no odor. No metal shavings or sludge of any kind. The pan was clean
4. I do have a leak that looked like it was coming from the gasket on the torque converter houseing. You alway see on drop just hanging on the bottom of the housing. Its not. Its comming from inside. Leaky converter? Its not bad just a drip hear and there.
FYI, I used Quaker State Dexron3 ATF. Even thought i have Mobil 1 in the Engine, I thought i would play it safe with natural ATF (also advised by Dave Roberts at 928 Specialist), since i have a pre-existing leak. When done, road testing revealed much smoother shifting from 1st to 2ndand 2nd to 3rd. Feels smoother at high speeds to.
I dont know if this will help any, but i did the trans service back in april and wrote about it on the listserve.
Heres a parphrased repost.
...I did the first auto transmission service.
Some observations
1. Total time for me to do the job - 5 hrs
a. 1/2 hr to clean the schmutz off every thing with degreaser.
b. 1/2 hr to properly jack the car off ground and remove rear wheels. Front wheels on ramps, jacked rear up by the cross member and put jack stands at the jack points. I did this very slowly and methdoically. When done i left the floor jack right where it was. Weight of the car was on 5 points.
c. 3/4 hr to drain pan and torque converter. Including time to rotate crankshaft. I finally broke down and asked father in law to crank the wrench for me so i wouldnt have to keep getting up.
d. 3/4 hr to R & R pan gasket and filter, and clean all parts
e. 1/2 hr to eat dinner
f. 2 hrs to refil the fluid. Including time to remove pan again because i didnt seat the gasket properly. Found out after the first quart of ATF started to seep out of the back of the pan onto the driveway. Got it all back together and the slow procedure of refilling via the reservior tube began in earnest. I used a 13 dollar drill pump i got at ACE harware. Worked flawlessly. Variable speed drill works best. Then the back and forth procedure of starting and stopping the car, filling some more etc etc etc. At the very end i just let the car run to warm the ATF so i could top it out at MAX HOT. (i think i got a little more in than i should have.) The last level check i did was slightly above MAX HOT.
2. The book on this says 8 liters of ATF. Mine only drained out 4 1/2 quarts maybe five, since i got some on the driveway (i refilled the empty ATF bottles to check.) I got 5 1/2 back in. Musta been a quart low.
3. Old ATF almost as clean and clear as new ATF. Just slightly darker in color, not burnt and no odor. No metal shavings or sludge of any kind. The pan was clean
4. I do have a leak that looked like it was coming from the gasket on the torque converter houseing. You alway see on drop just hanging on the bottom of the housing. Its not. Its comming from inside. Leaky converter? Its not bad just a drip hear and there.
FYI, I used Quaker State Dexron3 ATF. Even thought i have Mobil 1 in the Engine, I thought i would play it safe with natural ATF (also advised by Dave Roberts at 928 Specialist), since i have a pre-existing leak. When done, road testing revealed much smoother shifting from 1st to 2ndand 2nd to 3rd. Feels smoother at high speeds to.
08-28-2001, 01:35 PM
#9
Drifting
Snowy
I kinda figured that
I'm keeping an eye on the level until i can get all the money i need to redo the suspension and install a new seal. I will probably install a new torque tube too, while its all apart. I want to do as much as i can while everyting is disassembled. But thats a project for next fall.
I kinda figured that
I'm keeping an eye on the level until i can get all the money i need to redo the suspension and install a new seal. I will probably install a new torque tube too, while its all apart. I want to do as much as i can while everyting is disassembled. But thats a project for next fall.
08-29-2001, 05:31 AM
#10
User
Thread Starter
Snow,
Heard rumors that the pilot/co-pilot/nav-eng.
had to have the seat cushions surgically removed. They have my unfettered admiration.
Did wonders to get the F'n FAA off it's lame *** and into serious inspection criteria.
In my mind it is criminal to wait for a disaster in commercial passanger aviation.
The argument that commercial Pass. Avn is the safest form of transportation wears all to thin when you are in a 'heavy', approaching the ground with engines shrieking at an unrecommended attitude in relation to the horizon.
By the way are you an old or bold pilot?
Watch out for those rock filled clouds!
John S. Pattycakes
Heard rumors that the pilot/co-pilot/nav-eng.
had to have the seat cushions surgically removed. They have my unfettered admiration.
Did wonders to get the F'n FAA off it's lame *** and into serious inspection criteria.
In my mind it is criminal to wait for a disaster in commercial passanger aviation.
The argument that commercial Pass. Avn is the safest form of transportation wears all to thin when you are in a 'heavy', approaching the ground with engines shrieking at an unrecommended attitude in relation to the horizon.
By the way are you an old or bold pilot?
Watch out for those rock filled clouds!
John S. Pattycakes
08-29-2001, 10:49 PM
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John
No damage in turning the wheels. Yes, it will serve you better to blow low pressure (5-10psi) into the feed line through the bell housing. The return just dumps back to the pan. The pump will only turn if the torque converter turns, no you can’t turn it 900RPM by hand.
Snowball, you can’t land a fix wing in your backyard. ROTORWING ALL THE WAY.
Steven c
BELL 47G3B
No damage in turning the wheels. Yes, it will serve you better to blow low pressure (5-10psi) into the feed line through the bell housing. The return just dumps back to the pan. The pump will only turn if the torque converter turns, no you can’t turn it 900RPM by hand.
Snowball, you can’t land a fix wing in your backyard. ROTORWING ALL THE WAY.
Steven c
BELL 47G3B
