About that O2 Sensor.....
08-23-2001, 12:43 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
About that O2 Sensor.....
80' - 82' Sark Wranglers,
Well the O2 sensor and owners manual arrived
at work today and Rusty my alleged buddy and Vette' owner was giggling and moist eyed as he handed it to me - it came in a Lubriderm box. Hopefully, not a portent of things to come, said I. The manual is nicely done and informative. The universal O2 sensor is, unfortunately, a Bosch unit which is available at Checkers, cheaper -last three digits 025 -.
E-mailed 928 INTL'explaining the situation and requested verification of the part for my application. Also informed them that if indeed this was the part and I started stripping wire only to find that the puppy didn't work as advertized they would be getting it back. ZOOT ALLURES! Yet another
outfit with a $25.00 restock fee.
The Question. Would it be better to clip the lead on the old one for removal without twisting the Be-Jesus out of the wire lead?
Is this just straight forward crows foot work?
Finally, when I get around to fabricating the single exhaust RMB with or with out the SuperTraps is there a reason why the sensor is installed in the vertical position?
Just to keep it out of harms way do you think?
Thanks, I await enlightenment.
Keep em' rolling.
John S. 82' Auto. 'Pattycakes'
Well the O2 sensor and owners manual arrived
at work today and Rusty my alleged buddy and Vette' owner was giggling and moist eyed as he handed it to me - it came in a Lubriderm box. Hopefully, not a portent of things to come, said I. The manual is nicely done and informative. The universal O2 sensor is, unfortunately, a Bosch unit which is available at Checkers, cheaper -last three digits 025 -.
E-mailed 928 INTL'explaining the situation and requested verification of the part for my application. Also informed them that if indeed this was the part and I started stripping wire only to find that the puppy didn't work as advertized they would be getting it back. ZOOT ALLURES! Yet another
outfit with a $25.00 restock fee.
The Question. Would it be better to clip the lead on the old one for removal without twisting the Be-Jesus out of the wire lead?
Is this just straight forward crows foot work?
Finally, when I get around to fabricating the single exhaust RMB with or with out the SuperTraps is there a reason why the sensor is installed in the vertical position?
Just to keep it out of harms way do you think?
Thanks, I await enlightenment.
Keep em' rolling.
John S. 82' Auto. 'Pattycakes'
08-23-2001, 01:44 AM
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John,
Sorry about not knowing the universal O2 number for your model year. Be thankful it didn't come in an empty K-Y box.
The best bet would probably be to just unplug the old O2 sensor, then drop the cat. You can then get it out with a deep socket, and a 3Ft cheater bar (!). Seriously, shoot it with your favorite rust penetrant before attempting removal. I THINK (not sure about your MY) you will find the plug just kinda hanging toward the bottom of the fuse panel. You should be able to see where the wires go from the O2 sensor into the body even with the cat bolted up. Trace that wire, unplug it, and feed it back down toward the cat. That way, you can actually do a nice splice and solder job, without having a hernia, or getting a face full of solder.
As far as the positioning of the sensor, it is mainly to keep it in the airflow. I would imagine there are build-up issues that may arise if it were hanging completely upside down, or at least, it would be more suceptible to damage from any kind of "raw-gas-in-the-exhaust" event. In any event, you probably want to keep it close to where it is to allow it to warm-up as quickly as possible - they don't work well stone cold, hence why later models had a preheated O2 sensor.
HTH,
Greg
Sorry about not knowing the universal O2 number for your model year. Be thankful it didn't come in an empty K-Y box.
The best bet would probably be to just unplug the old O2 sensor, then drop the cat. You can then get it out with a deep socket, and a 3Ft cheater bar (!). Seriously, shoot it with your favorite rust penetrant before attempting removal. I THINK (not sure about your MY) you will find the plug just kinda hanging toward the bottom of the fuse panel. You should be able to see where the wires go from the O2 sensor into the body even with the cat bolted up. Trace that wire, unplug it, and feed it back down toward the cat. That way, you can actually do a nice splice and solder job, without having a hernia, or getting a face full of solder.
As far as the positioning of the sensor, it is mainly to keep it in the airflow. I would imagine there are build-up issues that may arise if it were hanging completely upside down, or at least, it would be more suceptible to damage from any kind of "raw-gas-in-the-exhaust" event. In any event, you probably want to keep it close to where it is to allow it to warm-up as quickly as possible - they don't work well stone cold, hence why later models had a preheated O2 sensor.
HTH,
Greg
08-23-2001, 02:21 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Greg,
As soon as possible I'll be a creeping under Pattycakes. Built a set of those 2x12 wood ramps with stop blocks and room for rubber tire wedges, BECAUSE, I did notice a odd green wire wandering away from the fuse cabinet/hutch - wood... why wood? -.
I followed it to the outta sight zone and eventually traced it to the O2 sensor at which time I was polishing the bottom of the car with my head. Hence, the ramps. I would have bet money that there were two wires involved, a green and a brown is that possible?
Thanks for the other info: penetrating oil tomorrow! Hmmmm... when I do the RMB: I was going to drill the recieveing hole then weld the appropriate nut to the exterior of the pipe in order to thread the O2 sensor in place but you now have me wondering if will be to far out of the exhaust flow as the nut will act as a spacer. BTW forehead jewelry and silver solder tears are the rage now.
Thanks Greg
keep em' rolling,
John S. 82'Auto. 'Pattycakes'
As soon as possible I'll be a creeping under Pattycakes. Built a set of those 2x12 wood ramps with stop blocks and room for rubber tire wedges, BECAUSE, I did notice a odd green wire wandering away from the fuse cabinet/hutch - wood... why wood? -.
I followed it to the outta sight zone and eventually traced it to the O2 sensor at which time I was polishing the bottom of the car with my head. Hence, the ramps. I would have bet money that there were two wires involved, a green and a brown is that possible?
Thanks for the other info: penetrating oil tomorrow! Hmmmm... when I do the RMB: I was going to drill the recieveing hole then weld the appropriate nut to the exterior of the pipe in order to thread the O2 sensor in place but you now have me wondering if will be to far out of the exhaust flow as the nut will act as a spacer. BTW forehead jewelry and silver solder tears are the rage now.
Thanks Greg
keep em' rolling,
John S. 82'Auto. 'Pattycakes'
08-23-2001, 01:26 PM
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John,
According to the factory wiring diagram for your MY, there is a green wire and a brown wire. So, that's what you SHOULD find.
Why wood? Sound deadening, you can use it as a footrest, and, oh yeah, CHEAP!(I can hear the hardcore getting ready to expound the technical virtues of Teutonic plywood, painted black...)
It sounds like you traced it successfully; the plug(s) for the O2 sensor should be in the high quality cabinetry. I think it's between the Warsteiner and the Grolsch.
Greg
According to the factory wiring diagram for your MY, there is a green wire and a brown wire. So, that's what you SHOULD find.
Why wood? Sound deadening, you can use it as a footrest, and, oh yeah, CHEAP!(I can hear the hardcore getting ready to expound the technical virtues of Teutonic plywood, painted black...)
It sounds like you traced it successfully; the plug(s) for the O2 sensor should be in the high quality cabinetry. I think it's between the Warsteiner and the Grolsch.
Greg
08-24-2001, 10:42 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
Greg,
The penetrant is at work.
Up on the ramps in the A.M.
O2 swap first.
Going to yank the wheels, check the brakes,
perhaps pack the bearings and check the trans
and differential.
anything else you can think of whilst I'm tickling the Sharks belly?
John S. 82' Auto. ' Pattycakes '
The penetrant is at work.
Up on the ramps in the A.M.
O2 swap first.
Going to yank the wheels, check the brakes,
perhaps pack the bearings and check the trans
and differential.
anything else you can think of whilst I'm tickling the Sharks belly?
John S. 82' Auto. ' Pattycakes '
08-25-2001, 01:49 AM
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John,
Sounds like a good list. As I am STILL in the middle of "while I'm in here syndrome" perhaps I am not the best advisor...
I would definately check the oil pan bolts for snugness (not 80 FTLBS, maybe 3 or 4) especially if you see any leaks. My oil pan was more suspended from the block than fastened to it . Changing the pan gasket is a royal PITA so just snug 'em down.
(If your gasket is like mine, it is probably as hard as a rock, so over-torquing it would be very counter-productive.)
I went through EVERY stinkin fastener that I could reach in the netherworld, and was scared at some of the ones I found. My car does have a few (160K) miles on it, so yours may not be so bad.
You might want to clean the thing as much as you can while it's up in the air, that way you can identify some new fun projects to unertake at a later date. I had to do gaskets on the camshaft end covers- mucho easy, and cheap ~$2 each.
good luck,
Greg
Sounds like a good list. As I am STILL in the middle of "while I'm in here syndrome" perhaps I am not the best advisor...
I would definately check the oil pan bolts for snugness (not 80 FTLBS, maybe 3 or 4) especially if you see any leaks. My oil pan was more suspended from the block than fastened to it
. Changing the pan gasket is a royal PITA so just snug 'em down. (If your gasket is like mine, it is probably as hard as a rock, so over-torquing it would be very counter-productive.)
I went through EVERY stinkin fastener that I could reach in the netherworld, and was scared at some of the ones I found. My car does have a few (160K) miles on it, so yours may not be so bad.
You might want to clean the thing as much as you can while it's up in the air, that way you can identify some new fun projects to unertake at a later date. I had to do gaskets on the camshaft end covers- mucho easy, and cheap ~$2 each.
good luck,
Greg
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08-27-2001, 06:02 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Does any one know what that short pipe with a nut/plug on the end is? It sit's 180 degrees out from the 02 Sensor on the same line of angle/axis.
Do you remove it to give yourself a clean shot at the bottom of the 02 sensor with the handgun of your choice, or, what?
Certifiably, Clueless here.
John S. 82' Auto. Pattycakes
BTW How many of those oil pan bolts am I allowed to snap off before I win a prize? not
Tempted to do a little silicone magic.
Do you remove it to give yourself a clean shot at the bottom of the 02 sensor with the handgun of your choice, or, what?
Certifiably, Clueless here.
John S. 82' Auto. Pattycakes
BTW How many of those oil pan bolts am I allowed to snap off before I win a prize? not
Tempted to do a little silicone magic.
08-28-2001, 02:17 AM
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John, John, John...
I am SO dissapointed. You say you're in Tejas, yet you propose using a HANDGUN on a recalcitrant part?!?
Is this like fishing for tuna on 10 lb test?
I would be more than happy to arrange something in .50 caliber to help you end this humanely. 
Greg
I am SO dissapointed. You say you're in Tejas, yet you propose using a HANDGUN on a recalcitrant part?!?
Is this like fishing for tuna on 10 lb test?
I would be more than happy to arrange something in .50 caliber to help you end this humanely.
Greg
08-29-2001, 05:08 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
Greg,
Couldn't get the Browning, M-2, HB, Air
cooled to line up under the sHARk. Maybe, if I put Pattycakes on a lift, Hmmm....
Maybe one of those Casull revolvers.
The O2 sensor came right out, three doses of penetrating oil and a 7/8" offset - combo wrench. No loss of blood. Still curious as to what that little tube extension and cap nut is for though.
You mean you never fly casted for a 750lb bluefin on a heavy sea? It's Eeeeeesay. The hard part is netting the catch and balancing on the kayak for the trip back.
John S 'Pattycakes'
Couldn't get the Browning, M-2, HB, Air
cooled to line up under the sHARk. Maybe, if I put Pattycakes on a lift, Hmmm....
Maybe one of those Casull revolvers.
The O2 sensor came right out, three doses of penetrating oil and a 7/8" offset - combo wrench. No loss of blood. Still curious as to what that little tube extension and cap nut is for though.
You mean you never fly casted for a 750lb bluefin on a heavy sea? It's Eeeeeesay. The hard part is netting the catch and balancing on the kayak for the trip back.
John S 'Pattycakes'
08-29-2001, 03:10 PM
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John,
The little tube and cap nut thing is for measuring backpressure in the exhaust. This was an easier way to troubleshoot the earlier more prone to clog cats.
If you're using the Browning, you don't have to get underneath at all. A few well placed bursts should allow access from the top.
A kayak? Damn, I guess that guy who told me not to use an inner tube was right after all.
Greg
The little tube and cap nut thing is for measuring backpressure in the exhaust. This was an easier way to troubleshoot the earlier more prone to clog cats.
If you're using the Browning, you don't have to get underneath at all. A few well placed bursts should allow access from the top.
A kayak? Damn, I guess that guy who told me not to use an inner tube was right after all.
Greg
08-30-2001, 04:49 PM
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I can't say that I'm an expert on the 928, but I would expect that the capped tube near the 02 sensor was the CO test tube. At least that's what it's for on the early 944's.
-Bob P.
-Bob P.
08-31-2001, 02:12 AM
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Bob,
This one is a bit different on 28s. The CO test tubes are actually tapped into the manifold(s). They then route up to the topside of the engine bay , and are covered with little rubber(!) caps.
There is a small nipple (or 2) on the cat for the express purpose of measuring backpressure in the exhaust. As far as I've seen, this port was discontinued on the 85+ 928s, after the industry figured out how to build a cat to last more than 50K miles.
Greg
This one is a bit different on 28s. The CO test tubes are actually tapped into the manifold(s). They then route up to the topside of the engine bay , and are covered with little rubber(!) caps.
There is a small nipple (or 2) on the cat for the express purpose of measuring backpressure in the exhaust. As far as I've seen, this port was discontinued on the 85+ 928s, after the industry figured out how to build a cat to last more than 50K miles.
Greg