Gary Knox

Shadowknight,

Seats stuck in the far back, or full forward position generally mean that the rubber "bumper" on the front and rear of the screw systems that move the seat F & R are still in place, and they have slightly "fused" with the frame and the seat mechanism. IF you can get the seat out, or get to these by raising the seat, remove them with a side cutter plier (Dikes), and you'll probably never have that problem again. BTDT with the 1st '88 I bought!!!

Gary Knox
West Chester, PA

Alan

Hows this :

shadowknight

Greatly appreciated....Now can anyone tell me which of the several washers on each of the rails need to be removed

Gary Knox

They are the black rubber washers.

Gary Knox

Bill Ball

I saw one instance where the jam was back at the motor. Working the manual crank could not over come it. It was jammed hard one one side. No evidence of coins or other obstructions. The seat was all the way back, so the rear seat bolt were inaccessible. How would you guys deal with that? I don't understand how the side cutters (Dikes) would be applied.

Gary Knox

Bill,

I actually had to rig up a set of ~1 X 2" Oak wood pieces with long threaded rods to break mine loose so I could get the seat out to cut the rubber washers. Had the piece of oak at the back against the rear of the seat frame, and the one at the front against the chassis seat mount.
Had a long threaded rod just inside each seat rail. Slowly tightened the rods on each side until the rubber bond "broke", allowing the seat to move with the electric motor. Once it moved, I could get access to the cheese head bolts and remove the seat. Once the rubber washers were removed, it never stuck again.

Gary Knox

Bill Ball

This jumper fix resulted in a 100ma parasitic draw. I just dicovered it today after my battery went flat over a 2 week period. Pull fuse 20 and it goes down to 40ma from 140ma.



HOLD ON! Before I get Alan and Doc too excited about finding the parasitic draw, I need to look at the mirror wiring. I remember now that it had been acting up before I did the seat swap and the jumpers. The left side mirror will not move in the vertical [correction: horizontal] plane unless the door is open a far ways. So, there is likely a bad wire in the harness. I'll be back later after I fix that.

Alan

Bill,

1 - 12 is OK
2 - 14 is the culprit use 4 - 14 instead (switched supply)

This is not the way it works stock and you will not not be able to operate the mirrors with the ignition off - but it will remove the parasitic draw.

I bet your mirror memory doesn't work any more either...?

Connect 1 to both 12 and 11 to reenable the mem control pad - it will not work quite right - you still won't get any illumination in general or for the memory button - but it should work.

Did you sell the mem seat? - if not a way to restore full operation is to mount the main memory unit from the old seat under the new seat and plug it in. Disconnect all the relays and plugs from the old one - you need none of these.. in this mode its still quite light... everything will work.

Alan

Alan

BTW - rereading this thread - in the picture of my seat - note this doesn't have the rubber end washer - they were changed to the hard white nylon at some point (presumably due to this jamming issue). If you have the white washers/bushings like this - these do not get jammed in the same way.

Alan

Bill Ball

Alan: THANKS AGAIN. The erratic switch seems to have nothing to do with the parasitic draw. I will do the 14-4 and 1-11-12 change.

Bill Ball

I pulled the left power seat fuse and the 100ma parasitic draw went away, but the mirrors still work. Even though that leaves me w/o mirror memory, I'll leave it that way for now. My residual draw is back to 30-40ma!