928 Track car update w/pics!
06-08-2007, 01:17 PM
#16
Drifting
Originally Posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
The "right way" is to BUY ONE that is already done 
06-08-2007, 01:47 PM
#17
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Very nice!
I know something of the effort required and used some of the same tools you did. Beside getting stuck with bits wire, the worst part was the contortion act involved when doing the work inside the car.
Hmmm, I have my motor out and will be swapping the GT trans in too, maybe I should extend project further...
I know something of the effort required and used some of the same tools you did. Beside getting stuck with bits wire, the worst part was the contortion act involved when doing the work inside the car.
Hmmm, I have my motor out and will be swapping the GT trans in too, maybe I should extend project further...
06-08-2007, 02:02 PM
#18
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Looks like a >87 engine, in a 80-83 shell?
06-08-2007, 03:11 PM
#19
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Thanks for all the kind words! This car is being purpose built for the track but not for competive racing ( track days mostly ) just something fun for us to enjoy!
It is an OB with a S4 motor ( originally an auto 16v converted to a 5-speed 32v )
The springs are stock right now ( cut to 11 1/2 inches ) when the car is finished we will weigh the corners etc. and then figure out the proper springs to go with those new Bilsteins!
It is an OB with a S4 motor ( originally an auto 16v converted to a 5-speed 32v )
The springs are stock right now ( cut to 11 1/2 inches ) when the car is finished we will weigh the corners etc. and then figure out the proper springs to go with those new Bilsteins!
06-08-2007, 03:18 PM
#20
How LONG did it take to the outside coating off?
06-08-2007, 03:29 PM
#21
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Brendan,
We removed the coating from th engine bay,front and rear fenders,underside of the car,and the entire inside! Working in 2-3 hour shifts over the last month i would say 20-30 hours total! It's a PITA for sure but, we felt it was worth it in the long run.
We removed the coating from th engine bay,front and rear fenders,underside of the car,and the entire inside! Working in 2-3 hour shifts over the last month i would say 20-30 hours total! It's a PITA for sure but, we felt it was worth it in the long run.
06-09-2007, 07:20 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by SwayBar
The reason that I asked, there have been a couple of times that I have taken over the preparation of a sedan or sports car...and been amazed at how much the spring rate/sway bar rate/shock valving had to change to utilize the additional stiffness when the cage is properly tied into the chassis.....
How much so? Can you cite a real-world example?
What started this project...? I saw a very good photo of the car being leaned hard into a corner under full power, and noticed that the gap between the hood and the fenders had disappeared...
06-09-2007, 10:00 AM
#25
Drifting
Originally Posted by GUMBALL
We did a "cage enhancement" on a 911 that was converted to 934 spec to run IMSA GTO. I don't remember exactly, but it seems that we had to go about 10-15% softer on springs and swaybars after all the mods.
What started this project...? I saw a very good photo of the car being leaned hard into a corner under full power, and noticed that the gap between the hood and the fenders had disappeared...
What started this project...? I saw a very good photo of the car being leaned hard into a corner under full power, and noticed that the gap between the hood and the fenders had disappeared...
06-21-2007, 01:21 AM
#27
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If I may make a suggestion, I would try to add "X's" to tie the cross braces together for stiffening.
06-21-2007, 02:22 AM
#28
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Wow!! That last picture with the seat and wheel in place gave me a jolt of nostalgia remembering working on fairground racers as a kid in the 50's and 60's. I swear I got a whiff of welding burn.
Thanks for sharing the build with us.
Thanks for sharing the build with us.
