Jim bailey - 928 International

we just got a pallet load in yesterday .....today we have only 10 left. Actually make that 9 because I am planning on putting one in the old very brown 1980. I know it has an at least ten year old Behr and it is starting to get a bit hot running at Willow Springs!

AO

What years and.... HOW MUCH?

Jim bailey - 928 International

It fits all years has two internal heat exchangers for engine oil and trans fluid $895. 5 speed cars just do not use the cooler on the right side tank. For the 1990 GT you can use a no cooler Behr since you have an air to oil cooler for the engine and no trans cooler it runs about $650 new as I recall.

Mark Anderson

We also have one that has no coolers for $600. Actually it has 2 coolers but they used the wrong size fittings so they are not usable. It also has some mounting tabs missing. Only one at this price.

cdbtx

Had mine for 1 year and it's a great product...and price - so good in fact that I should probably buy another and then find another 928 for it..


Chuck


83 Kiln Red 928S

SeanR

When you get one, be sure to ground the radiator to the car.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Actually it is NOT the radiator that needs to be grounded but the engine to the chassis and any electrical devices like cooling fans need a chassis ground and NOT USE the radiator as a ground. This is another Urban Myth propagated by an old wife or two ....The original Behr core is aluminum nicely insulated (ungrounded) by plastic end tanks so there is no reason that our aluminum radiator needs a ground .

SeanR

Thanks for the update. If what you say is true, Devek's rads that were sold were defective instead of this. This will clear a few things up.

Jim bailey - 928 International

Now down to eight in stock ....

H2

My '88 S4 is running a bit too hot but I've not had time to isolate the cause. How does one rule out the radiator as being the problem? I'm assuming that once the radiators calicify up, they can't be reclaimed, and they're junk.

Harvey

SharkSkin

Harvey, do you have an IR thermometer? If so, point it at various parts of the radiator as the car warms up. Don't worry too much about actual temps, you want to look at variations in temp across the radiator. This type of radiator usually plugs from the bottom up; if the lower part of the radiator never gets hot, the tubes are probably plugged.

H2

Thanks, Dave, for the detailed information. I don't have an IR thermometer but I'll buy one and check the radiator out. I'm hoping I can find one tomorrow in SLC, UT as I'm passing through. If the radiator is no good, then it sounds like I may need to buy another.

Thanks again,

Harvey

cfc928gt

Harvey, Harbor Freight has them on sale right now and there's a store in SLC. Gun type is $39 and the smaller one is $19.99, both are laser type, non contact infrared thermometers. Store address is 3470 S State St, phone 801/484-9556. Hope this helps

H2

Thanks, cfc928GT, for the address. After my meetings today, I slipped out and bought one of these laser temp checkers. The quaility should be OK for all I need it for. When I get back in the garage, I'll go thru the checklist of possible problems, address the fan issue, crank it up and use this on the hoses (I may be able to tell something about when the thermostat opens) and also the upper and lower parts of the radiator. I hate to buy a new radiator but I hope I figure this out before Jim sells all that he has in stock!

Harvey

Alan

I installed one of these recently and it looks good and seems to keep the car a little cooler - I know my stock Behr was a little clogged at the bottom.

A note - if you have the original radiator - take your stickers off before it gets tossed... (particularly if you have the gold foil NLA ones)

Best method seems to be to heat the rad (maybe just run it up to temp) on mine I had it out and heated it with a heat gun (prob. can get a higher temp this way). Carefully lift one end of each sticker with a razor scraper and then lever up gently - with application of heat. Then with a putty knife or scraper and heat gun work your way down slowly... I was able to do this and by keeping the foil taught avoid any major creases in the surface. All mine came off cleanly - with glue residue still tacky on the back...

I chemically removed the glue (tough stuff) and used my wifes rolling pin to flatten the now curved stickers (while she was out of course!).

I did photograph the stickers on the old radiator with a ruler reference so I could exactly position for re-install - but there are 2 welds/rivets in the top surface you have to work around so its not possible to match the factory locations exactly without grinding these flat. I just moved to as near as factory with the welds/rivets between the foil stickers. High temp contact adhesive worked fine to reinstall...

Well worth preserving and they came off way easier than I ever expected.

The new superceding foil stickers are a quite yellow painted/printed look not even close to the gold foil originals - same stock number so the originals are now NLA unless you get real lucky!

Alan