Nicholbry

I am into that dreaded task of replacing the motor mounts, oil pan gasket, etc. and I wanted to know a couple things about the oil pan before pulling it down. I have a '90 S4. I see that there is something connected to it on the front/top side. What is it? Do I need to disconnect it? If so, how do you go about disconnecting it? I can't get my fat head in there enough to see what's going on and I don't have the WSM yet (I'm gettin' there).

Additionally, I've read here on Rennlist about a "pick-up" tube. Is that something that is connected to the lower pan itself or extends down from the block? It is my wish to completely remove the pan to clean and possibly do a rod bearing check-up (#2 & #6).

Lastly, on the front/top passengers side of the pan there is the refill tube that also houses the dipstick (I believe). Where the tube enters the pan it appears as if there is some type of greyish silicone like material holding it into the hole. I may be wrong as I need to look closer at it, but is this how it came from the factory or did the PO mess something up and repaired it improperly? I assumed the stem would be anchored differently; say with a proper connection w/ bolts/nuts or something besides sticking a tube in a hole and filling the surrounding area with silicone.

Thanks fellow Rennlisters. I am so glad I found you guys.

Vilhuer

Its oil level sending unit. Wire needs just to be pulled up. Pull protection rubber up a little to see the connector.

Its mounted to block. No need to worry about it other than it forces pan to be removed downwards.

There is O-ring seal on bottom of the tube. Someone has done something to it later on.

Nicholbry

Regarding the wire on the front of the oil pan, I looked closer today and I can feel some small screw heads on either side of it (maybe 10mm??) which would suggest that I would need to do more than just pull on the wire, correct? I'm assuming that I would have to unscrew those. I guess I will be better able to see what's up there after being able to drop it a couple inches.

Thanks for your response.

Big Dave

Nope. The wires can be disconnected from it. No need to turn those screws. Leave it on the pan. Pull back the rubber cover and you'll see the wires can be disconnected.

Nicholbry

Finally, something that can simply be pulled off. After doing this project I think I'll barf at the sight of another nut/bolt/screw for a while. I've had some particular trouble breaking free most of these bolts/nuts as they have never been removed. I've had to throw away two ratchet extensions and a ratchet from damage as the force required to remove these were beyond the tool's tolerance. It was that Taiwanese crap anyway.

Thanks for the clarification.

Bill Ball

I trust you have a 10mm Gearwrench. It will save you hours of time getting 6 or 7 otherwise almost inaccessible pan bolts off.

When you pull the pan, don't be shocked to see some light machining of the block that may look scarily like the result of TBF (thrust bearing failure). It is factory. If it is TBF it is done by the counterweights and you will be able to tell the difference.

Are you doing this on jackstands with your back on the ground? If so, I will salute you should we ever meet.

Half my toolchest is Taiwanese; the rest is mainland Chinese.

GregBBRD

The hardest part is the thing dripping oil on your face for hours. Take the pan off at the end of the day and walk away until the next day. There is another thread going on about rod bearings.

gb

GregBBRD

Oops, the other thread is you, too!

gb

marton

A close second is the dirt powder that is laser guided direct in your eyes whenever you move something.

Marton

Mike Frye

Also,

Don't forget that if you have the car on jack stands or supported some other way that has the front higher than the back, you will still have oil in the rear of the pan after you drain it.

You may want to keep the car as level as possible while draining at least so that the oil from the rear of the oil pan has a chance to drain, otherwise you will take a bath when you get the rear bolts out. (1+ quarts?)

Get everything as clean as possible before actually removing any of the pan bolts. You're already going to be eating and wearing lots of gunk, no reason to get it inside the engine as well .

+1 for what Bill said on the 10mm gear wrench. It's a lifesaver. I don't know if there's any other way to get some of them unless the engine is on a bench!


AND>>>Some of the pan bolts are different length, so keep track of them for re-assembly. Take your time, clean as you go, keep us posted.

Good luck!

85fortheDrive

1. You'll need to hoist the engine, obviously. When you do so, there maight be a backwards cant to it, which will usher the remaining engine oil backwards into the shallower area of the pan. It's when you loosen the bolts back there that you may wish to ready yourself for some oil spill.

2. With respect to the oil level indicator, it can just be unplugged. However, if I remember correctly, I wound up removing mine so as to have a wider turning angle for loosening and then tightening the front oil pan bolts.

3. A gear wrench will be extrememememely helpful. The bolts on the front driver's side are doozies.

4. Consider using zip strips to keep the new gasket (silicone, right?) seated as you reinstall the bottom pan. Two people here is really helpful. Otherwise, you're likely going to need a bottle jack with a piece of wood.

5. Be careful not to counter thread those front screws. I used a screwdriver to apply modest force upwards to get them started, but had to back a couple out for fear of cross threading.

I'll be happy to share more BTDT tips if you need them. Give a call if need be - 847-341-4539.

'Luck

Tim

Big Dave

I had the same experience with motor mount fasteners...

Bill Ball

Nicholas: Mike mentioned the short pan bolts. 5 of the 30 are 25mm long, while the rest are 28mm. The short ones install in areas that are depressed more (thinner) than the rest of the pan lip.

Nicholbry

Ah yes; I've just rung off two of those myself. Dad introduced me to Blackhawk tools that served well after extreme pressure on the cheater bar. Live and learn.

I am that stage right now of trying to remove that darned cross member. Everything is unbolted; including the motor mounts. However, I can't retrieve the motor mounts due to the heat shields on either side that is in the way. I've tried for 2.5 hours today to get a wrench on those impossible, corroded screws that hold it in place. Even if I manage to get a wrench on them, I don't know how I will get the torque needed to break them free due to the limited space in that hole. You can't see them from above either. Nor can I remove the cross member with the motor mounts because the cross member needs to shift rearward to clear those large rubber bushings on the lower control arms. ...............

I'm persistent though and I've come this far I'm not giving up just yet. I'm already starting to dread the idea of getting at some of those oil pan bolts. I'm afraid to remove the alternator and really afraid to remove the compressor so I am going to try and work around them. That compressor looks overly complicated to take apart and get right again with the belt tension. I consider myself a DIYer only if I have simple to understand, step-by-step instructions to go by....like this mm/oil pan exchange that stops short of explaining how to remove those items and get right again.

Anyway, wish me well. I'm about to go absolutely mad with this PITA project. That cross member is about to get a can of whup-*** opened up on it tomorrow......................hmm, where did I put that hacksaw anyway?

Thanks for the responses. What a great community, this Rennlist.

marton

Must you do that on an S4? I did the pan on an S & I did not have to touch them.
Dropping the starter was a pain simply because it is so heavy.

Marton