BlueDog

Can anyone please tell me how to access the bulb in either the left or right front *side* turn signal? There are no screws and there seems to be no access from either the wheel well or from underneath. I don't want to try prying off the amber cover w/o first knowing this is the correct procedure. The owners manual makes no mention of this. Thanks!

'85 928S 5 spd Guards
Red - 126,000 miles.

Dozman

The easiest way I have found to change the bulbs in question is to remove the headlight cover, remove the headlight, then change the bulb. Not hard, just be careful not to scratch the paint.
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

John D

Ell

I don't know if this is any easier. I always lift the car, and remove the tire. This will give you enough room to either undo the clip that holds the bulb in, or remove the two screws that hold the light in. The screws don't have to be completely removed just enough to turn the clamps that hold the light housing in. Depending on the condition of the car any way you go you have to be very careful or you could break something. I can replace one in about 10 min without the wife.

Ell
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

John Struthers

BlueDog,
FWIW
From what I can tell the 78' thru 86' have the same turn signal lens.
There ARE 2 screws that secure the lens giving you access to the bulb.
You may have to pull the trim, I forget if that's 2 or 4 screws.
Do not overtighten any screw going thru a plastic lens and use the old biker method of starting all screws before snugging them down.
HTH
John S. and Pattycakes.
P.S. Might be a Wives Tale, but, the rule of thumb is replace them as sets...They are cheap, your call. SORRY!
You mean those sidemarker/turn signal lights. First turn the wheel inboard on the side you are working on. Remove the splash shield/s, 3 or 4 screws. 2 of which should be 8mm machine heads.
No telling what your PO stuck in there.
Reach forward and hopefully you will find a wingnut to either side of the assembly. Put a T shirt or towel under the fender lip in case hardware drops, otherwise it'll be hiding on a lip somewhere. Left front, the alternator cooling tube with temp gauge inside will probably be in your way - usually zip tied- get it out of the way
Wiggle and push light - after removing hardware - wingnut, lock washer and flat washer - from the back side till it comes out. There is a foam/rubber seal try not to break it. Once out, you will see two wires going to the light socket. These are simple blade connectors, before pulling them make sure of which one is the solid brown(ground) mark it with a felt tip, don't ask. The white plastic guts with bulb socket is a squeese together to remove affair and will snap back into place easily. You don't need pliers, trust me. Eyeball it. You will want to clean the socket wall and base with a green pad or piece of 400 grit. 1st time PITA gets easier each time.

Nicole

Ell:

It sounds like your car is missing the covers inside towards the front of the fenders. That wouldn't be good, as you would get road debris on the covers of the retracted headlights, into the cooling hose for the alternator, and on your side markers.

Ell

I went and checked, I have the access panels as well, I just was not quick enough to use them. What can I say, I'm still learning the little ins and outs on this car.

Ell <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

BlueDog

Thanks to all who replied. I will jack up that wheel this morning, remove the wheel and start looking. I didn't think it would be so involved to change that little bulb. I was hoping someone would just say "Pop the cover off with a common head screwdriver." <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Robert

BlueDog,

I feel your pain brother... my left side one went out about a month ago. I intend to replace all of the bulbs (front and rear at the same time). My car is an '89 w/138k worth of mileage, so it seems like a wise move. Sort-of like what they do at Disneyland... they replace the bulbs to the lights on a schedule rather than waiting for a bulb to burn out. I also want to replace the tailight bulbs and polish the lenses.

Rob

John Struthers

Say!
While we are at it folks...
The front wheel wells also have a REAR splash guards, too.
I haven't investigated the front left, but the right side is a darlin'.
One of Snow's post's had me investigating that bizarre washer tank neck that, I guess for space saving reasons, threads thru the inner fenderwell.
And yes, mine was split as well. You can't see the damage from under the hood.
There is an outrageous wirebundle and another of those 45 degree vacuum spliters. If the zip tie breaks holding the vacuum lines and wire bundle together the splitter is a goner. I believe this vac line is HVAC related and a cursuroy examination may save you a lot of time.
BTW Kudo's to Nicole for if I remember correctly she was the one who passed on the "replace the bulbs as a set tip.
I think the wire bundle has a lot of the feeder lines connected to our monster fuse box.
As Mr Spock would say "FACINATING". Scary though.
Then there are the rear splash guards...
The left side gives you access to the left rear side marker light assembly. If you have a stock exhaust with the original rear Bathtub muffler connected to the dual tips (single exhaust) it's was damn near impossible to reach without taking the splash guard off.
Does anyone know if there is a right rear splash guard? I don't have one...
John S. and Pattycakes
P.S. BlueDog, you don't have to yank the wheel, turn it inboard a little for better access.
<img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" /> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />

Kevin in Atlanta

[quote]Originally posted by John Struthers:
<strong>
Does anyone know if there is a right rear splash guard? I don't have one...
</strong><hr></blockquote>

Nope, this is the one near the gas tank. I was told you do not want to trap gas fumes. Makes sense.

-Tib

BlueDog

In order to replace the right side marker light bulb I ended up going through the headlight as Dozman had suggested. I attempted to go through the wheel well but my splash guard goes all the way up and is apparently sealed up there - I could see foam at the top. Then overlaying it was the entire wheel well "liner" (?). I would have caused a lot of damage going through the wheel well on my car. After I got a hang of it, going through the headlight was pretty darn swift. I didn't know that the horn was in there! It still had a bit of red overspray on it from what I assume was the factory paint job. <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />

Randy V

Sounds like the PO did some wizzardry in there, Dawg. The wheelwell liners should come out easily by removing 2 retaining bolts. The OEM liners have a foam sealing gasket around the outer edge.

The stock horns are made of red plastic, perhaps leading you to assume it was overspray.

BlueDog

Nope, they are definately black plastic German horns. I got a very good looksee. And they had just a hint of red paint spray on them. Very slight.

Beth

Help - this isn't making sense to me. The '83 project car has a light out. It is missing the wheel well splash shield so the turn signal bulb assembly is very accessable. I disconnected the 2 wires connecting it to the car and pulled it out. Now, how the heck do you get the bulb out of the plastic assembly/cover thingy? I tried to grab the back of the bulb with pliers to back it out after I moved the metal contact piece out of the way. It didn't budge and I succeded in breaking off the very end of the bulb. HELP!!!!!

I can't imagine you need to replace the whole thing if the bulb goes out

Big Dave

Nope, you should just be able to pull the bulb out of the assembly. Without the splash guard, you probably have a fair amount of rust seizing the bulb into the socket.