Tampa 928s

Used my drivers side hatch release to open hatch then motor kept running, disconnected rear electrical connector stoped until I opened drivers door when on again. I disconnected Driver switch open door still runs is this thing haunted?

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

There is a gear in the hatch motor which has an electrical contact area near its perimeter. There is a 1/8" gap in this contact area. When a brush which touches the contact comes to the gap, the motor loses power and stops. The gap can become smaller by wear and the motor never stops. You can disassemble and try to diagnose and repair or you can replace.

Tampa 928s

Thanks

Also thanks for adding to my project list

Alan

For a temp reprieve pull the fuse on the panel... the only 1A fuse (black one)

The release will still run when you pull the switch but will not continue running it may not park in the right place though - so you may have to try several times - but it beats the continual running until you can get in to fix it.

I agree its likely the internal contact track that needs cleaning - its actually pretty easy to do...

Alan

Mrmerlin

is the fuse good for the hatch release it is a 1 amp fues check it, also check the ground wire system for the hatch

Tampa 928s

86
There is a of external postion switch on the lock mechanism which provides, I believe provides reference to the lock itself, is this the one your talking about? It has a thin Brown wire to this switch back to the motor, which has 3-wires. This seems like the external version of the switch your talking about, feed back please!

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

I think that is the alarm/ interior light trigger. I'm pretty sure the motor turning one cycle only is control internally as I described.

Alan

What Dave says - ignore the switch on the bottom - it just detects if the hatch is open for the internal lights & alarm - it makes no difference in this case.

Your problem is likely internal - it usually is if the motor continues to run when it shouldn't.

Several other problems can cause it not to run, not to park or not to open the hatch - this one is common though - you'll probably have to remove & diasassemble/clean it. The only other possibility is a sticking hatch release switch - simply pull a connection off the switch to test for this... (or pulling the interior light fuse does the same thing)

Fortunately cleaning the motor its much easier than you'd think - really!.

Do not remove the hatch lock receiver (don't event think about it). Unbolt the motor from the center support - pop off the drive arm (press fit) - take out the motor. I seem to recall it just unplugs from the harness somehow... then carefully dissassemble and clean the almost complete circle track - there should be a break (clear of metal track) for the park posistion - it often gets smeared with residue and maintains contact...

Alan

Tampa 928s

Opened up the motor found 3 contacts on a round conductor there is a space provided to stop the motor once it comes around. I adj the contact and the motor stops temporally but keeps on turning as if there is switch being held open.

ckabee1

Sorry for digging up this old thread, but I didn't want to start a new one and have folks restate what is already here.

This evening, I pulled the hatch release and after the hatch opened, the motor continued to run until I pulled the fuse. The mechanism and motor seem to be working fine, other than not shutting off.

Tried cleaning the gap in the electrical connector as suggested above, but no joy. Is there something else I'm missing?

ColinB

In both the above cases the most likely culprit, as Alan suggests, is dirt on the contact ring. The ring is a circular track with two contacts (brushes) supplying power to the motor. The way it works is that the brush near the outer periphery of the ring is energised ONLY when the hatch switch **** is pulled. That sets the motor moving. Once moving, (and the hatch **** is released) the inner brush then maintains power to the motor until it enters the insulated sector and contact is interrupted (the "park" position). The brushes are small and it doesn't take much to foul them. Grease, dust, etc. Mine had carbon deposits from years over-enthusiastic operation of the motor trying to get it to work properly. Clean the brushes and contact ring with electrical cleaner and/or very fine emery paper until you are SURE there are no blemishes. If the motor continues to turn after that the most likely reason is the contacts on one of the hatch switch ***** are not opening when the **** is released.

Colin. 89GT

Alan

Its easy to test for failures in the hatch switches - simply remove the switches and leave the terminals separated. Touch the terminals together to mimic pulling the switch. If this works OK without continuing to run test each switch.

In practice though - if you have 2 switches - to save dissassembly simply see if they both operate the same. If only one causes the continuation in running then that one is suspect - its unlikely both will fail the same way at the same time.

Alan

Bertrand Daoust

Hi. I had the same problem with mine and had to increase the size of the cut-out portion on the disk (as sugested by Wally Plumley) . It worked fine.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ght=Hatch+back

Good luck.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

+1!

Bill Ball

Bertrand : What did you use to cut the disk - very neat work!