Mine did that two when I lived in TX. What simply happens is that the geras inside the housing are turning to easily.
Schocki's fix: Open the housing fill the gears with fresh high temp grease and close it again. It will slow down the the geares slightly in will take care of the problem.

Try it out Worked for just fine me!

 

Actually I did not cut the disk but put some computer cut lettering vinyl on top of the disk.

It is a very simple thing to do (with the right equipment) and it fixed the problem for me.

I have to mention that I had to reduce the size of the vinyl to about 135 degree
(instead of 180 degree like in the pic) to get it worked fine.

Happy New Year everyone.

 

Thanks for the replys, guys. I have ruled out bad switches, so the problem is definitely the motor.

I will try to pack with new grease, and if that does not work, figure out how to widen the gap.

Thanks again.

 

Bringing it back to the top.

Doing the '90, alarm equipped. I pull the switches and no motor running.

Here is what I've done.

1. Switches work, have power, continuity. Pulled, disassembled and cleaned.
2. Motor works on outside power.
3. Harness to the motor has continuity.
4. Pull switches and use a test light at the rear harness, no power. Acts like there is an interrupt some where between the motor and the switches. But, it has continuity at the motor.

I'm a little lost atm. The motor is not running when pulling the switches.

 

I have the same problem with my '89 right now. I took the motor apart and the teeth on one of the gears are worn in one spot. That causes the motor to keep on spinning when it gets to the worn spot and slips. Even though the motor's running, the arm that unlocks the hatch doesn't move under load when it gets to that part of the gear. Does anyone know if there's anywhere to get replacement gears? If not, I'm looking for a replacement motor.

 

This indicates the motor was straining at one point in its rotation and needs to be adjusted better (you will need a new one). When the motor is adjusted correctly - with the hatch open the motor should not strain & notably slow down at any point in its normal rotation - Of all the hatch motors I have heard about 1/3rd are clearly not correctly adjusted just from the tone of the motor... this causes premature wear, poorer opening performance and more noise...

Adjust the motor up & down on the central support to adjust movement (there are also several actuator installation mounting points).

Note that it's normal for the motor to slow slightly when it engages the hatch lock tab when the hatch is closed... so don't test this way.

Alan

 

Look at thread #6 from Alan. A very good one. It might help you:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ar+hatch+motor

Good luck.

 

So run a wire directly from the yellow wire on a switch to the yellow wire on the motor - work now? If yes - either debug the wire break or just permanently install the new wire(s)...

Alan

 

I'm working on a hatch that PAUSES at the rest point, but then runs on. I took out the motor and cleaned up the track for the track and contacts. It still runs on. So, it's as if the gap in the track is too narrow. I have some vague recollection the someone widened the gap. HOW? It's pretty delicate to be grinding on.

EDIT: Found it! I'll give it a try.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showpost...29&postcount=5