EBC Green Stuff brake pads
07-16-2002, 07:41 PM
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EBC Green Stuff brake pads
Does anybody have experience using these pads on a shark? It's getting to be around the time for pad replacement and I am getting sick of spending 2 hours to detail the 16 inch flats due to brake dust. From various sites, these pads seem to be highly regarded for performance and low brake dust. I am not sure if there is an application for the 928, so I figured I'd ask you folks. Any suggestions in reducing brake dust? Thanks in advance.
Ed
1985 928s Auto
Ed
1985 928s Auto
07-16-2002, 08:40 PM
#2
Ed,
Here's a link to the UK website. Someone installed those pads on their 89GT. <a href="http://www.928.org.uk/brakes.html" target="_blank">http://www.928.org.uk/brakes.html</a>
After your installation, let us know what you think about those pads.
Roger
Here's a link to the UK website. Someone installed those pads on their 89GT. <a href="http://www.928.org.uk/brakes.html" target="_blank">http://www.928.org.uk/brakes.html</a>
After your installation, let us know what you think about those pads.
Roger
07-17-2002, 01:38 PM
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hey thom, have you noticed any accelerated rotor wear with the axis pads? also, what about squeaks when the pads are cold or at low speeds?
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<img src="graemlins/icon107.gif" border="0" alt="[icon107]" />
07-17-2002, 01:46 PM
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Burning Brakes
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Hi Ed,
I have not done any high performance driving since I installed these. A description of them said they are good for high performance and occasional track use. I have heard that opinion from others. They are not for racing. It seems that people were talking about Kevlar pads – maybe Hawk – I forget, for racing. Some people swap out at least their front pads when they hit the track.
Here is one of those essentials documents that I keep refining that may help in your job:
Brake Work Essentials:
Brakes SQUEAL because metal shimmies against metal. The metal backing of the pad vibrates where it touches the pistons in the calipers. I found some anti-squeal adhesive pads to glue to the back of my brake pads. Most part stores carry anti-squeal juices. These mainly glue the pad to the pistons. The main problem with old pads would be just getting the pads and piston ends clean enough for the goo to adhere to both surfaces. If you are in that deep, just buy some new pads. If rotors are not turned during a brake job, vibrations/squeal can be heightened.
A tough part is getting the wear SENSORS out of the pads without breaking them. I insert a miniature set of needle-nose tweezers into the metal loops alongside the protruding wire. Then tease the sensors out. Maybe pry the tweezers up with a screwdriver.
I like the Axxis Metal Masters for LOW DUST, and medium to high performance.
A large C-clamp can be used on the pad to PUSH PISTONS in.
To get those pesky Phillips head SCREWS out of the rotors – I wedge a really long screwdriver between 2 rotor studs, and against the ground. I use a Phillips head bit in a ratchet adapter. The ratchet gives the needed torque when opposed by the large wedged screwdriver. Others use impact wrenches to get the screws out.
Use ANTI-SEIZE on all bolts, and screws in high heat areas.
HANG CALIPERS, when removed, with wire to avoid kinks in brake lines.
See <a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com" target="_blank">www.pelicanparts.com</a> for brake BLEEDING procedures. I use a one man bleeding tool. It is just a check valve (one way) that slides over the bleeder. I pump the pedal with the car running until I see solid blue going through the tool's clear hose, add some more pumps, then close the bleeder valve. (However, now I would start by using the check valve type of bleeder valve (speed bleeder). I keep filling the reservoir up to where I can see fluid so I am sure no air is getting in. Pressurizers that keep adequate fluid in the reservoir should be fine, too. Bleed sequence: Master Cylinder, RR, LR, RF, LF. Do inner bleeder then outer on each caliper before moving to the next caliper. Use ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid, alternate flushes with Gold. It is German with a high boiling point.
PICTORIAL PROCEDURES:
John Pirtle’s site: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html</a>
Tony’s Site: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/brakepad.htm" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/brakepad.htm</a>
Portia’s Site: <a href="http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/vacuum_boost.htm" target="_blank">http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/vacuum_boost.htm</a>
Greg Nichols’ site has WRITTEN troubleshooting PROCEDURES and more at:
<a href="http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tips.htm" target="_blank">http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tips.htm</a>
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
I have not done any high performance driving since I installed these. A description of them said they are good for high performance and occasional track use. I have heard that opinion from others. They are not for racing. It seems that people were talking about Kevlar pads – maybe Hawk – I forget, for racing. Some people swap out at least their front pads when they hit the track.
Here is one of those essentials documents that I keep refining that may help in your job:
Brake Work Essentials:
Brakes SQUEAL because metal shimmies against metal. The metal backing of the pad vibrates where it touches the pistons in the calipers. I found some anti-squeal adhesive pads to glue to the back of my brake pads. Most part stores carry anti-squeal juices. These mainly glue the pad to the pistons. The main problem with old pads would be just getting the pads and piston ends clean enough for the goo to adhere to both surfaces. If you are in that deep, just buy some new pads. If rotors are not turned during a brake job, vibrations/squeal can be heightened.
A tough part is getting the wear SENSORS out of the pads without breaking them. I insert a miniature set of needle-nose tweezers into the metal loops alongside the protruding wire. Then tease the sensors out. Maybe pry the tweezers up with a screwdriver.
I like the Axxis Metal Masters for LOW DUST, and medium to high performance.
A large C-clamp can be used on the pad to PUSH PISTONS in.
To get those pesky Phillips head SCREWS out of the rotors – I wedge a really long screwdriver between 2 rotor studs, and against the ground. I use a Phillips head bit in a ratchet adapter. The ratchet gives the needed torque when opposed by the large wedged screwdriver. Others use impact wrenches to get the screws out.
Use ANTI-SEIZE on all bolts, and screws in high heat areas.
HANG CALIPERS, when removed, with wire to avoid kinks in brake lines.
See <a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com" target="_blank">www.pelicanparts.com</a> for brake BLEEDING procedures. I use a one man bleeding tool. It is just a check valve (one way) that slides over the bleeder. I pump the pedal with the car running until I see solid blue going through the tool's clear hose, add some more pumps, then close the bleeder valve. (However, now I would start by using the check valve type of bleeder valve (speed bleeder). I keep filling the reservoir up to where I can see fluid so I am sure no air is getting in. Pressurizers that keep adequate fluid in the reservoir should be fine, too. Bleed sequence: Master Cylinder, RR, LR, RF, LF. Do inner bleeder then outer on each caliper before moving to the next caliper. Use ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid, alternate flushes with Gold. It is German with a high boiling point.
PICTORIAL PROCEDURES:
John Pirtle’s site: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc.html</a>
Tony’s Site: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/brakepad.htm" target="_blank">http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/brakepad.htm</a>
Portia’s Site: <a href="http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/vacuum_boost.htm" target="_blank">http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/vacuum_boost.htm</a>
Greg Nichols’ site has WRITTEN troubleshooting PROCEDURES and more at:
<a href="http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tips.htm" target="_blank">http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/nichols/tips.htm</a>
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
07-17-2002, 02:00 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
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Hi Snowy,
A few months after I installed the pads, I found some low pitted spots on the inside surfaces of all of my discs. The discs were already too worn to turn. I had not touched them in about 4 years prior to that. That could be reasonably good life for our cars. I think the wear limits are very conservative. I really cannot determine that the harder Axxis pads caused excessive wear. I would have to check thickness after maybe 20,000 miles to make a scientific judgment.
Mine never make any noise. I used thin rubber adhesive anti-squeal pads to replace the factory metal backing plates. I had all pads replaced with I assume OEM 4 years ago. The mechanic said they would never squeal. They started squealing after about 2 years, and got progressively worse. I would never install pads without the extremely cheap insurance policy of an anti-squeal substance again.
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
A few months after I installed the pads, I found some low pitted spots on the inside surfaces of all of my discs. The discs were already too worn to turn. I had not touched them in about 4 years prior to that. That could be reasonably good life for our cars. I think the wear limits are very conservative. I really cannot determine that the harder Axxis pads caused excessive wear. I would have to check thickness after maybe 20,000 miles to make a scientific judgment.
Mine never make any noise. I used thin rubber adhesive anti-squeal pads to replace the factory metal backing plates. I had all pads replaced with I assume OEM 4 years ago. The mechanic said they would never squeal. They started squealing after about 2 years, and got progressively worse. I would never install pads without the extremely cheap insurance policy of an anti-squeal substance again.
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
