4.5L sleeved to 106mm?
04-08-2003, 01:03 PM
#16
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Then just have the block Nikasil plated....open up to 4.7 liters and then run a high compression piston and you are done.
I opted for the Nikasil route for the following reasons:
Porsche has used it successfully for MANY years
It is used in most new Motorcycle engines
It does not kill heat transfer out of the engine
It is in intimate contact with the Alusil wall
It does not require decking the block
It was much more cost effective
My block had 0.020" removed. The nikasil need only be 0.008-0.012" thick to work well.
If you went to 4.7 liters, bumped compression up and did some minor fuel mods...probably just add a bit of fuel pressure the car should be able to make 275 HP or so.
I opted for the Nikasil route for the following reasons:
Porsche has used it successfully for MANY years
It is used in most new Motorcycle engines
It does not kill heat transfer out of the engine
It is in intimate contact with the Alusil wall
It does not require decking the block
It was much more cost effective
My block had 0.020" removed. The nikasil need only be 0.008-0.012" thick to work well.
If you went to 4.7 liters, bumped compression up and did some minor fuel mods...probably just add a bit of fuel pressure the car should be able to make 275 HP or so.
04-08-2003, 06:55 PM
#17
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When it is possible to purchase a good used 85-86 short block for $1,500 or less . Pull the pistons and cut valve relief pockets ; use the rings and bearings . Install 2 valve heads and have about 10-1 compression ! Somehow sleeving , making custom pistons , plating the bores etc. seems unecessarily difficult unless you really intend to run boost . Brendan I can not help but wonder.....do your Wife and new born Son really care if their car has 240 , 340 or 440 horsepower ? 3 gears or 4 ? as they drive to the grocery store . Perhaps you need to get the S-4 running in your quest for automotive fullfillment ; I think you need a big fix of BWAAAAAAA !
04-09-2003, 06:16 PM
#19
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Yes, Zan, sometimes they are.
Walt Said the same thing.
I think sometimes I give people too much info. If I was thought of as single with time and money to burn, then everybody would be asking why I didn't just buy a stroker crank as well.
I will be pulling the 4.5 anyway. This is the only reason I am asking about these things. It will be out for a reseal and maybe some valve work. Depends on what I find. The motor has 250k or more.
Walt Said the same thing.
I think sometimes I give people too much info. If I was thought of as single with time and money to burn, then everybody would be asking why I didn't just buy a stroker crank as well.
I will be pulling the 4.5 anyway. This is the only reason I am asking about these things. It will be out for a reseal and maybe some valve work. Depends on what I find. The motor has 250k or more.
04-09-2003, 11:24 PM
#20
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Brendan,
I'll have my block back in about two or three weeks along with the new pistons. I'll post to let you guys know how it turns out. I have TONS of time investigating this method for my turbo 928 and I really believe it is the best option for my needs. Like Jim is saying, you probably don't need the forged pistons, but it is an option.
I figure I'll have $2,200 into the bottom end, this includes new rings, pistons, rod and main bearings as well as the Nikasil plating.
I'll have my block back in about two or three weeks along with the new pistons. I'll post to let you guys know how it turns out. I have TONS of time investigating this method for my turbo 928 and I really believe it is the best option for my needs. Like Jim is saying, you probably don't need the forged pistons, but it is an option.
I figure I'll have $2,200 into the bottom end, this includes new rings, pistons, rod and main bearings as well as the Nikasil plating.
