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Can I tell by compression ratio with a compression tester and barometric pressure?

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Old 05-10-2007, 03:59 PM
  #16  
Ian928
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Originally Posted by karl ruiter
Thanks Ian. That is what I have, as nearly as I can tell. Is your motor 4.7, 10:1?
It is what Porsche qotes to be a 10:1 engine. It is a M28/11. I have CCed it to be 9.3:1 (or maybe 9.4:1 depending on what thickness you calculate the headgasket to be)
Old 05-10-2007, 04:14 PM
  #17  
mj1pate
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Originally Posted by 928drvr86.5
Same for my 86.5
More off topic....but as well is my 86.5. Mine tested as 161-170
Old 05-10-2007, 04:49 PM
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Jean-Louis
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Change the head gasket this is a must, every old Euro have bad gaskets. I worked on a lots of Euro engine and they all had bad gaskets.
On my 84 Euro S (with new gaskets) I have 6psi of boost with air/air intercooler. I will definetely not go above.
Old 05-10-2007, 06:54 PM
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mark kibort
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i got 155psi for my euro 5 liter
180 for my S4 with GT/85 cams
and my old 4.7 US with an old motor, was near 135psi

mk
Old 05-10-2007, 11:20 PM
  #20  
docmirror
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Yeah, that was my hint when I was discussing removing and surfacing the head. I wouldn't go pressurizing any engine that I didn't at least have the heads off. If it were me, I'd have the whole thing apart, and make the CR what I wanted with dish, or lower pin holes. If it's a Euro, and at 10:1 I wouldn't bother with SC, just give it some air to breathe normally, maybe work the exhaust a bit and let er rip. If you hash the engine later, then you can look at the rebuild with SC in mind.
Old 05-11-2007, 01:04 AM
  #21  
RicerSchnitzzle
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what kind of hp would a 4.5 euro block make with the S heads, cams, and intake? I always wondered why the S made 300hp vs 229 for the 4.5 Euro with the same CR and only 5% more displacement.
Old 05-11-2007, 01:27 AM
  #22  
karl ruiter
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Well, of course you are right. Pulling the heads would have been the right way to do it. But once the heads were off I would have wanted to at least have a look at the guides, and probably replace them and do a grind. Then, I would probably want to resurface the heads on both sides and the cam towers. Then, probably fresh bearings on the lower end while I was in there. And all new seals, of course. The trouble is that suddenly I am into my $800 motor for $2k to $3k or more. Plus another $4K for the blower setup. And my quick and easy motor swap drags on for 6 months. I have been around this particular block before (pardon the pun), and I assume that every buck and hour I put into the car is just gone. Hard to justify the time(except that I love it), but easier for me if I don't drag the $ along too. Not that wife, kids, or biz partners agree with my time/$ logic, but it I am of scottish descent, so what can I do? Plus, even though I am a pretty good wrench, everybody makes mistakes, so I try not to fix what is not broken.
Still, it was a near thing and I just almost pulled those heads.... But it is done. The motor is in the car now and sounds good. Since it seems like it is the high compression motor, I will probably do pretty much what doc says: get the exhaust working (it is crap right now), and maybe switch over the pullies for PorKens setup and play with cam timing a bit.
Unless, of course, I fall over a used 928 motorsports/powerdyne kit for cheap. Then I might take my chances.



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