Getting ready to swap out my radiator
05-08-2007, 07:18 PM
#31
Slackers? In High School? What will they think of next.
Good luck.
Good luck.
05-09-2007, 07:21 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
I own a C&R rad from 928 INTL for about a year now. I have not had one bit of trouble with it. I do remember reading all the problems DEVEK was having with theirs and how their supplier insisted they ground the rad. I posed this question to 928 and this is their response they got from C&R. If there is more info on this grounding, lets send it out to 928 INTL and see what they say.
928 INTL: I checked again with our manufacture and this was his response.
C&R: I am not familiar with the installation of this unit. It would appear from the drawing that the retention is on the 4 corners in the little saddle mounts. I presume there is rubber isolation of some sort. It doesn't look like it could mount solidly to the frame / core support. Please correct me as necessary.
I'm not sure why the concern about grounding the rad, that is a new one on me.
Perhaps someone has experienced some electrolysis, which can be caused by poor grounding of the electrical system that can result in the coolant "energizing" and creating some pitting, even porosity in the radiator tubes, but grounding the rad wouldn't cure that, I wouldn't think, you need to ground the electrical system properly.
This can also happen when the rad is solid mounted to the framework that is grounded, but has a poor ground. We recommend rubber isolating the rad.
I went to the Rennlist site to see if I could find the discussion with no luck, but would like to see what the discussion is and understand what difficulties are occurring. Perhaps there is something with the electrical system that I am not aware of.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other concerns.
928 INTL: I checked again with our manufacture and this was his response.
C&R: I am not familiar with the installation of this unit. It would appear from the drawing that the retention is on the 4 corners in the little saddle mounts. I presume there is rubber isolation of some sort. It doesn't look like it could mount solidly to the frame / core support. Please correct me as necessary.
I'm not sure why the concern about grounding the rad, that is a new one on me.
Perhaps someone has experienced some electrolysis, which can be caused by poor grounding of the electrical system that can result in the coolant "energizing" and creating some pitting, even porosity in the radiator tubes, but grounding the rad wouldn't cure that, I wouldn't think, you need to ground the electrical system properly.
This can also happen when the rad is solid mounted to the framework that is grounded, but has a poor ground. We recommend rubber isolating the rad.
I went to the Rennlist site to see if I could find the discussion with no luck, but would like to see what the discussion is and understand what difficulties are occurring. Perhaps there is something with the electrical system that I am not aware of.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other concerns.
05-09-2007, 07:58 PM
#34
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From Ron Davis racing (who made the "Devek" radiator) ,,, Tech tip "Electrolysis corrosion can be reduced by eliminating brass fittings or water with minerals in it. Distilled water with coolant
mixed to the manufacturer's recommendations, or Water Wetter for racing applications is a must. You can test for electrolysis
voltage by inserting a voltmeter lead into the inlet or filler neck and the other terminal to battery ground. If the voltage is
greater than .03V, isolate electrical circuits by pulling fuses or turning off items. Bad grounds are often the cause. Remember to
check the voltage while cranking the engine with the starter to verify good starter grounding." So they were talking about ENGINE GROUNDS electrical circuit grounds and NOT grounding the radiator. After all the original Behr radiator has an aluminum core and it uses no ground !
mixed to the manufacturer's recommendations, or Water Wetter for racing applications is a must. You can test for electrolysis
voltage by inserting a voltmeter lead into the inlet or filler neck and the other terminal to battery ground. If the voltage is
greater than .03V, isolate electrical circuits by pulling fuses or turning off items. Bad grounds are often the cause. Remember to
check the voltage while cranking the engine with the starter to verify good starter grounding." So they were talking about ENGINE GROUNDS electrical circuit grounds and NOT grounding the radiator. After all the original Behr radiator has an aluminum core and it uses no ground !