Rebuilding 1988 manual transaxle after wasting $2710 at local shop
#46
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL USA
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by marton
there is some outfit that sells boots that sort of wrap around the joint and then you super glue it together. much easier
Marton
Marton
BT
#47
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Even in 89 the LSD was optional. The 89GT came standard with lsd..but none of the others. In 1990 Porsche switched to PSD..Porsche Sperr Differential ??...which is a computer controlled one (separate pump and controller using brake fluid)...variable percentage based on what the computer deems necessary...
Later,
Tom
89GT
Later,
Tom
89GT
#49
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
PHP Code:
there is some outfit that sells boots that sort of wrap around the joint and then you super glue it together. much easier
Ironically I used a boot which I had left over from my old Ford Fiesta. The left over superglue (I didn't need it all) was much stronger than standard stuff, and was used to hold together one of my cracked speaker covers. Standard superglue failed every few months... touch wood, this stuff has worked for nearly a year already.
Good luck with the gearbox rebuild... makes me glad I'm an auto man.
#50
Drifting
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by marton
there is some outfit that sells boots that sort of wrap around the joint and then you super glue it together. much easier
Marton
Marton
#52
Drifting
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: zürich, switzerland
Posts: 2,233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
about
I know a number of people who have used these with success.
Of course, everything in life has pros and cons & nothing can be guaranteed 100% success.
Marton
HTML Code:
I use these too Marton, and with success
Of course, everything in life has pros and cons & nothing can be guaranteed 100% success.
Marton
#53
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by marton
About
I think that is probably 11 not 1J
Limited slip has 12 not 11.
HTML Code:
G2813 1J 00501
Limited slip has 12 not 11.
Code:
123456789ABCDE G2813 1J 00501 123 = Manual gearbox for 928 45 = '87-88 US model gearbox 7 = Open diff, LSD would be 2 9 = Model year, '88 ABCDE = Sequence number within gearbox type and MY, 501 is first normal gearbox number
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/140212-pilot-bearing-removal.html
#54
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by 72Audi
Attached is a pic of the part numbers for this brackets and subset part numbers.
Looks there there are three variants of the bracket bearing.
Not sure why there are two subset numbers for the bushing ??
Looks there there are three variants of the bracket bearing.
Not sure why there are two subset numbers for the bushing ??
#55
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL USA
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by marton
About
I think that is probably 11 not 1J
Limited slip has 12 not 11.
Cheers
Marton
HTML Code:
G2813 1J 00501
Limited slip has 12 not 11.
Cheers
Marton
Look at this chart courtesy of the 928 Specialists' web site.
BT
#56
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL USA
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't believe the shift forks are set properly.
I have read chapter 34-218 (printed 1987) concerning gearshift adjustment several times and I just can't follow it.
The "improvised holder" mentioned in 34-215 .... eludes me.
Not shown on page 34-201 "special tools"
I can't find a pic with this "improvised holder" anywhere in the manual.
Did I miss it ?
Is it necessary ?
Logic would dictate that if it was necessary ..... it would be on the special tool list and an illustration coming forthwith.
Sorry, I am getting aggravated with these lame $1200 manuals.
Better than todays cars .... no manuals at all .....
Try utilizing the online Mercedes Benz system over the internet.
Non resizable frames etc. What a travesty !
If anyone has this tool or any other transaxle tools that they would like to sell or rent out please email me or call me at 954 583-4191.
Ok, I am totally lost with the "Note" on page 34-214-1 as well.
The Note refers to a tapered bolt in the internal selector arm .... neither of which appears to be shown in the diagram to the direct left of the note.
argh.
Thanks,
Bruce Toski
I have read chapter 34-218 (printed 1987) concerning gearshift adjustment several times and I just can't follow it.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
The "improvised holder" mentioned in 34-215 .... eludes me.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Not shown on page 34-201 "special tools"
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
I can't find a pic with this "improvised holder" anywhere in the manual.
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
Did I miss it ?
Is it necessary ?
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Logic would dictate that if it was necessary ..... it would be on the special tool list and an illustration coming forthwith.
![soapbox](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/soapbox.gif)
Sorry, I am getting aggravated with these lame $1200 manuals.
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
Better than todays cars .... no manuals at all .....
Try utilizing the online Mercedes Benz system over the internet.
Non resizable frames etc. What a travesty !
If anyone has this tool or any other transaxle tools that they would like to sell or rent out please email me or call me at 954 583-4191.
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
Ok, I am totally lost with the "Note" on page 34-214-1 as well.
![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
The Note refers to a tapered bolt in the internal selector arm .... neither of which appears to be shown in the diagram to the direct left of the note.
argh.
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
Thanks,
Bruce Toski
#57
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Holder in 34-215 is used just to simulate cover without blocking view to inside. It presses down spring which in turn pushes pin that is part of the mechanism which prevents selecting two gears at once. Its really not even necessary. Just have someone compress that spring while you do adjustments if you want to follow factory procedure.
#58
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Note on 34-214 refers to correct positioning of syncro rings when pinion shaft is installed. There are three wider parts on syncros which must be inserted correctly. No big deal. If you have pinion shaft installed correctly syncro must be in right position also.
None of the factory special tools listed in WSM are really needed. Everything can be substituted with regular or self made tools.
Edit, uups. You meant 34-214 l and not 34-214 j. Tappered bolt in 34-214 l refer to which direction small hole in selector arm front end is pointing. As other two holes further back are not drilled straight down, front blind hole would not be pointing horizontal if blind hole were on passenger side. It must be horizontal as selector joint which mounts to blind hole must be horizontal.
None of the factory special tools listed in WSM are really needed. Everything can be substituted with regular or self made tools.
Edit, uups. You meant 34-214 l and not 34-214 j. Tappered bolt in 34-214 l refer to which direction small hole in selector arm front end is pointing. As other two holes further back are not drilled straight down, front blind hole would not be pointing horizontal if blind hole were on passenger side. It must be horizontal as selector joint which mounts to blind hole must be horizontal.
Last edited by Vilhuer; 05-06-2007 at 05:55 PM.
#59
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL USA
Posts: 112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
EV - who has been helping me here in this thread - was kind enough to email me the following doc.
Porsche Service document titled Manual Transmissions for
Eight Cylinder Model Series - Engineering Features,
Power Flow, Adjustments. TRAINING P30 dated 3/88 50 pages
page 13 says:
"All six synchromesh rings in the transmission are identical.
The basic material is brass and the tapered surface is coated with
molybdenum."
page 46 says:
"Synchromesh rings for lst, 2nd and 3rd gears are made of steel, have a sprayed-on coat of molybdenum on the internal taper and can be recognized on the dark general color.
Synchromesh rings for 4th and 5th gears are made of brass.
They also have molybdenum sprayed internal tapers.
The synchromesh ring for 5th gear is also made of brass, has a different tip angle on the shift teeth and can be identified with the brown paint."
I would surmise that page 46 is the more correct statement ?
Now... finding out that these synchros have a "sprayed-on coat of molybdenum on the internal taper" makes me reconsider my earlier statement about lapping in synchros. There is no mention in the factory manual of lapping in the synchros so ..... specifically I am wondering if anyone has read any legitimate journals that say that lapping in this type of synchro is bad for some reason ??
BT
Porsche Service document titled Manual Transmissions for
Eight Cylinder Model Series - Engineering Features,
Power Flow, Adjustments. TRAINING P30 dated 3/88 50 pages
page 13 says:
"All six synchromesh rings in the transmission are identical.
The basic material is brass and the tapered surface is coated with
molybdenum."
page 46 says:
"Synchromesh rings for lst, 2nd and 3rd gears are made of steel, have a sprayed-on coat of molybdenum on the internal taper and can be recognized on the dark general color.
Synchromesh rings for 4th and 5th gears are made of brass.
They also have molybdenum sprayed internal tapers.
The synchromesh ring for 5th gear is also made of brass, has a different tip angle on the shift teeth and can be identified with the brown paint."
I would surmise that page 46 is the more correct statement ?
Now... finding out that these synchros have a "sprayed-on coat of molybdenum on the internal taper" makes me reconsider my earlier statement about lapping in synchros. There is no mention in the factory manual of lapping in the synchros so ..... specifically I am wondering if anyone has read any legitimate journals that say that lapping in this type of synchro is bad for some reason ??
BT
![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
#60
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by 72Audi
The slip joint at the rear of the cats is a different story. Had to hit the center mufflers with my huge rawhide mallet to knock them backward off the slip joint. Overall not too bad though. Better than my 72 Audi !!!
BT
BT