RyanPerrella

although if i really worry about it, i think i should just go through the extra hassle of draining out all the fuel anyway.

Whats the best way to sciphon out the fuel? (spelling check)

I remember trying to do this to a newer car but with all the gas tank breather system it was impossible to do it. How do you reliably drain a full tank and not make a huge mess, assuming i have the containers to drain the fuel into.

RyanPerrella

Update time:

Got the main and secondary pumps lastnight. Finally got a chance to install the main pump about an hour ago. That went well, really pretty easy swap, took all of 30 minutes taking my time. I had to button up the engine, and put all the wiring in the CE panel back together.

Went to crank it and it cranked slowly (low battery from sitting) but wouldnt fire. Ok crap, what now. I go and play with the relays, i switch out the horn relay with the fuel pump and also snugged down the LH relay and when i went to start it, it fire up. Went around the block, and let it sit and ide for awhile longer and i then shut it down.

So it works, EXCELLENT!

Thanks to all that contributed to the thread, John S, Bill B, Malcolm, Zeus, Jim B, mrmerlin, Andrew O, Steve G, Heinrich, Dr. Bob, Mike F, Schocki, Tails, and anyone I may have missed. I really appreciate the ideas and I am happy to report that with your help the car is back on the road.

THANKS AGAIN

AO

Congrats! Good job! You get a gold star.

RyanPerrella

Now to start on the secondary pump. I will go ahead and siphon out the fuel from the fill tube and put it into another car. I have done this in the past on diesel tanks where you put the hose it the tank, make sure the end is submerged, blow and out comes the diesel or gas. Will the 928 let you do this. I had mentioned earlier that I had tried to do this on a late model BMW one time and i couldnt get it to work, it wouldnt hold pressure. If this dosent work can i use a hand held siphon pump to do this. I realize that could take forever but i dont want to run the car too long with the secondary pump crapped out.

Whats the best way to get the gas out, or do you think i am safe to do as schoki suggests and just drive it as usual till its low, then drain the rest out from below?

I guess i want to know, that when the intank pump fails, does it just cease to function, or does it partially block the fuel flow so the main pump is now stressing to do its job?

Jim bailey - 928 International

The intank pump blocks the flow unless the short rubber hose from the fitting to the pump is broken.

dr bob

Ryan--

You can siphon as you describe only if there's adequate leve in the tank to get the siphon filled after you blow in the hose. The inertia of the fuel rushing back into the hose has to be enough to go all the way to the top of the loop at the gas cap and down into the gas can. It sometimes works with a relatively full tank but never works with a tank that's close to empty. Physics and gravity are your friends and your enemies at the same time.

In my collection of things I keep an old 12volt electric fuel pump, permanently plumbed with a couple hoses and piece of steel fuel line. I used it to get the gas out of the boat tanks and into the Explorer before towing back frm wherever we got them wet. It's also real handy for doing just what you are trying to do. Too bad you moved to Texas, dude, or you could have your problem solved in about the amount of time it takes to order and eat a few tacos.

The cheap tool stores often have hand siphon pumps with accordian bellows and a couple check valves. These pumps deteriorate over time so I don't ever plan on more than a few uses, but they are handy for your problem if you can stuff the suction end all the way to the bottom of the tank.


Whichever method you choose, work away from the house, have a garden hose charged and handy, a fire extinguisher ready, and no sparks or smoking nearby. Seems that more than a few garage fires start with some fumes on the floor, ignition from the water heater, the clothes washer/dryer, or the air compressor motor. Work outside away from the house so fumes will dissipate before they reach explosive levels and they are away from common ignition sources. You can't be too careful!

Jim bailey - 928 International

Put a gallon of gas in your empty 5 gallon container that you plan to fill with gas submerge the syphon hose in the container put your thumb over one end and remove the hose now full of fuel from the container and stick the free end in the gas tank hold the hose end very close to the ground and release your thumb..... The metal no lead restricter flap assembly usually can be pulled up out of the top of the filler spout makes it easier to put in a hose.

KoenigDK

Glad that you have maked it work.

My problem is close to the same, so by trying all the sugestion to fix my problem that there is in this thread i have ended up with the following:
Car wont start.
My fuel pump work fine when it is powerd direktly from batt.
I have sparks at the plugs.
I dont get fuel in to the engine cylinder,( sparkplugs are dry) but there is fuel in the fuel rails.

Could the problem be this:


When the imobiliser is on i have no power at the starter.
When i turn it off i can crank the ingene.

I think it maybe could be the imobiliser Bc it does not always lock / unlock the doors when activated. Is it posible that imobiliser dont open for all the circuits?
And what does it turn off and on ? Besides the starter? Fuelpump? Injectors?
Any sugestions are more than welcome.

John Speake

Imobilisers usually work on starter motor and fuel pump relay.

If you have spark but LH isn't energising the FPR or firing the injectors then swap out the LH relay, then suspect the LH ECU.

KoenigDK

I have swaped the LH relay. Changed all the "normal 53" relays with new ones.
Still the same. Is ther anyway that i can messure if the LH ECU works?
When i bougth the car in Germany for over 1 year ago. it came with a rebuild ECU. But i dont know if it works =(.
Another thing is this:
On the left side of the car. Ín the enginebay. just next to the powerstearing oil "container"
There is this:

What wires are suppose to go there?

I have connected the MAF, the Flywheel sensor, 2 x knok sensors, sparkplug wires and coils.
Is there anything else that is a MUST to be connected before the engien should run? I mean do i have to connect the temp sensors, oil level sensor , oil presure sensors and so for the engine to run?? Just trying to have as little as posible connected to rule out any "gremlins"

SharkSkin

Looks like the main lead to the ABS. Won't affect whether the engine runs.

John Speake

Temp 2 should be connected, but when cold the engine should at least fire initially, then probably bog out too rich.

When battery is good and strong, do you see the tach flicker when you crank the engine ? If so that confirms that the LH is receiving rpm pulses that should wake it up to energise the fuel pump relay and pulse the injectors.

I noticed that fuel injectors are not on your list of "things connected"..... but I assume that was just a typing omission :-)

KoenigDK

Just spend the last hour reading from web sites. mesuring diffrent stuff. Here is what i have done.
1. Fuel pump circuit. LH pin 20 to FPR pin 86
2. Fuse # 42 ( and all the other fuses)
3. Bridged FPR 30 - 87 and the pump runs
4. LH conector pin 4 = V12
5. LH relay pin 85 to LH connector 21 = V12



John you said: When battery is good and strong, do you see the tach flicker when you crank the engine ? What is the "Tach" ( im a Dane)

In a car that works fine. Should the fuel pump start when i turn the ignition on, without cranking the enginge??

When i bridge LH relay pin 30 and 87 i can here a small "click" like from a relay, but it sounds like it is comming from the area of the fuelpump. what is that ?

The 2 temp sensors arethat the ones on just above the waterpump, that messures the cooling water ? Or should i plug in the one on top of the intake manifold?

RyanPerrella

the tach, or tachometer is the rev counter where you see engine speed in 1,000 rpm segments. This is next to the speedometer.

KoenigDK

I have left the shop for tonigth. ( 21.10 here in Denmark) I dont thinkt that the rev counter is moving.
I have come up with another idea: I may have switched the fly wheel pos sensor connector with the knock sensor connector! Dont think so but ill have to try ill try and switch those 2 tomorrow. Otherwise i guess ill try with a new flywheel sensor. But it dont sounds like anyone think it is the LH unit??