I made it past what I consider to be a huge hurdle in the project this weekend. I basically had to make parts for all of the components to fit flush to the console edge. Each item had a different requirement. Finding and figuring how I could do this was a lengthy process which actually took weeks of thought time. I haven't had the time I used to have for these kinds of things. I now choose my days when the weather is comfortable enough for me to mentally and physically deal with this. No clue as to when this will be done, but if I were a bettin' man, a month or two.

It looks easier than it is! However, I did find, that I could use the existing trim bits and modify them. We are talking about some precise fitting which took a bit of time today.

So what you are looking at below, are the rack components fitted and secured with trim pieces fit. As I had said, all of this was a bit of precision work to make it all fit right and look right. At the last minute, I had a stroke of genius. (at least as far as I was concerned). I was able to cut and fit the lower console trim surround. Incredibly enough, the curve in the section of the trim where the clock and switches are normally fitted, fit perfectly at the point it is located now! This now takes care of the dilemma of the rear AC switches and IPOD compartment. I just laid these parts in for the time being to show what I am doing . I still need to fit the docking station along with other items behind and under everything....but you get the general idea from the pics. This is close to the final look. (Please excuse the scuffs and fingerprints everywhere ) A before pic just for fun too.




So the next issue I need to contend with is the wiring. Not a big deal, but maybe someone may have a suggestion. First off, I am pretty sure the power amp was on it's way out. Most GTS amps suck and this one was making a couple of speakers sound like they were toast. The AVIC-D2 is a 200+w unit, so there is no need for the stock power amp. The issue I have is that the stock amp was fed 4 channels, but the amp put out 6. I thought there may be a cross over of sorts, but the amp shows LR, RR, LF and RF on one side and then LF and RF on the other and notes them as Sub's. Uhmm, huh? These hardly look or act like sub woofers. Should I just tie the fronts together in parallel? I expect at some point, I will come back with a power amp in the rear of the car and a true sub, but need to work this out for the time being.

Comments, questions and the shredders are always welcomed!

Thanks.

 

That looks fantastic, Keith!!! Awesome work!

 

Keith: Looks very good. To complete the flush look, don't you think the shifter boot should be brought up to the same level?

 

Looking good Keith! Sorry I wussed out on ya.

 

I like the look from head on, but not as much from the side. It looks good, I guess I just prefer it recessed. Although it's growing on me.

 

At that angle how easy is it to see the screen or is glare really not an issue?

Looks awesome! The heater controls look better down there.

 

Looks great Keith! I would love to see your car and dash in person.

 

Keith - the speaker wiring is not what you think....

BTW if the speakers sound like toast - maybe they are... its actually more likely the speakers need refoaming than than that stock amp is causing it ...

I'd swap the speaker connections at the amp to check if its the speakers or amp channels that are bad.

The connections:

You have FR & FL which are mid/high band to the doors - a simple passive cross over there splits the high to the tweeter and full range to the mid range unit.

In back you have FR/FL channels mid/low to the big 6.5" speakers. There is also another channel per side that go there for RR/RL mid/high which go to a passive crossover on the back of the woofer - but actually only feed the tweeter in the side quarter panel next to the 6.5" unit and a mid range unit in the top of the quarter panel.

So Front here = Doors units (midrange & tweeter) & 6.5" rear unit ('sub') (electronic-cross over in the amp and passive fort the door pair)

Rear = the side tweeter and the top mid range
(electronic cross-over in the amp)

You get no real low bass on the rear channels - but the 'front' is unidirectional enough that it doesn't matter that much.

What should you do...? depends on what you intend to do on speakers & amps.

You could drive front door pairs and rear pairs as now from the head unit direct and then drive the 6.5" units from a small amp via pre-amp outs from the Front channels.

Combining all 3 rear speakers per side will likelky give you head amp impedance issues and probably won't balance relative levels well...

If you swap speakers you could get a 3 way passive cross-over for the rears (or even an active cross over with an amp - but you'd need new wiring).

Alan

 

Keith - I like what you did with the panels - good progress!

Looks like you had to borrow a bit of space from the front part of the shifter well - correct?

How did you find the fit behind everything in the console? any major issues? Are you able to get the stock loom connectors to fit to the relocated AC head or did/do you need to extend?

Alan

 

That set up looks great, I really like it.

I have to ask as well, how visable is the sreen with sunlight right on it at that angle ????

 

I LOVE IT I WANT IT GREAT JOB KEITH!!!

 

Just noticed the leather covered knee bolster... Sweet!

 

Thanks for the compliments on the progress. It is not the finished look as there are things I still need to address, so some of the questions may be answered in the future...However,
Yes...and No. I hadn't gotten that far as I had just laid in the trim for viewing/mock up purposes. This part of the mod was a concern because if I did not use a trim with an inside beveled edge, the shifter being in reverse and first would slap the trim piece as the shifter leans way over to the driver side.Therefore, I was quite happy when I realised I could modify the original and raise it up flush. I haven't explored whats underneath the leather boot as of yet. Raising that would certainly make the shifter look way short. Having a deep well there doesn't bother me when I think about it, but will address it when I get back in there. I need to make sure the inner sides of the trim reach down far enough to make a finished look, so there may have to be some modification there. I certainly have to make a trim piece in front of the shifter to hide the cavity under the rear AC switches and IPOD docking station.

The jury is still out with me believe it or not, but I won't be able to give a true answer until it is done.

The reason I had located the unit at the top was to give the best possible viewing angle. I have had the unit sitting in that position for weeks now and it is at an optimum angle. No glare...cept when the sun roof is open. I am sure I could devise a visor for the unit if need be.

Too late for that! I guess I will find out when I get everything hooked up again. As for the wiring, I have to run new wires to the old power amp area anyway as the multi pin connector won't work for me anymore. This at least gets all of the AVIC-D2 speaker wiring out to a new point of connection location for future mods. AS I had said, I will eventually replace the speakers and install a power amp with a sub.

Actually No. That is where the ashtray used to be...quite a perfect fit and placement of all of the same space.

I had to move wiriing, but nothing was lengthened or cut as far as harnesses. I did have to modify the console some to make things fit in the new positions. The biggest issues was centering everything and cutting into the inner side of the console to fit the 5 pin HVAC plug. The lower part of the console gets narrower of course and left unmodified wuld have put the HVAC head unit off to the passneger side some. I STILL have to get the actuator pod situation worked out. I had spent one weekend modifying only to find out that when the AVIC-D2 was reinstalled, the pod was still in the way. I decided to leave that for after. Because the AVIC D2 is quite big, I had to move several things, but there still sems to be enough room to do this. FWIW, there is no more ashtray and cig lighter or clock. I am not sure where I am going to put the cig lighter/power point at this time. The cut out where the clock used to be will not be the IPOD docking station and there is lot's of room under this location to what I want. BTW, thats my IPOD sitting in that hole.

the sun would have to be at zenith to be an issue....and that just doesn't happen on this part of the planet.

 

Hi Keith,
That looks spectacular! I've done some dash and console mods and I have a pretty good idea of how slow the progress is. That looks very clean and OEM! I do kind of agree with Bill Ball about the shifter boot looking too recessed. You could probably raise the perimeter of the boot about 3/4", the fit would be more flush and the stick would not really look too short. This is my 2 cents worth, and you are there with 3D evaluation of your work, which is superb.
Good luck,