Garage queen caution (corroded fuel rails/injectors)
#16
Under the Lift
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Originally Posted by rixter
if you have that much debris in the lines you may have issues elsewhere as well
#17
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Location: Da Island, mon! (VI,BC,CA)
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Finally, new stuff going back ON the car rather than coming off. Have all new soft lines for fuel and CCV, and most coolant. Just waiting for molded hoses for heater, and still researching fuel inj & hardline options.
Now to see about powder coat for intake...might as well make it purdy for all the work.
K
Now to see about powder coat for intake...might as well make it purdy for all the work.
K
#18
Team Owner
Time for a new or used set of rails there will be no way to tell if your rails are clean there has to be more than a few used rails that are in good condition floating around try the big 2 they might can help you for way less than a new set
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Been digging through the big 3 sites, and might have missed, but didn't see anything.
All other hard lines come out clean; I'm thinking that injector leak down might have drained one side when parked, allowing moisture damage, while feeders, returns & other side held enough fuel to protect. I'm still entertaining custom rig for rails & injectors as well.
It's also not rocket science to just fab new rail; local hydraulic shop did wonderful job on flex fuel lines on pass side; only cost me $150CDN for both. I just salvage barbs & couplings & they will braze onto new pipe for me.
I am not going to risk the one old rail for sure.
regards.
K
All other hard lines come out clean; I'm thinking that injector leak down might have drained one side when parked, allowing moisture damage, while feeders, returns & other side held enough fuel to protect. I'm still entertaining custom rig for rails & injectors as well.
It's also not rocket science to just fab new rail; local hydraulic shop did wonderful job on flex fuel lines on pass side; only cost me $150CDN for both. I just salvage barbs & couplings & they will braze onto new pipe for me.
I am not going to risk the one old rail for sure.
regards.
K
#20
Team Owner
dont forget to check the fuel cooler and the other lines that connect to it also drain the tank, you might have a lot of other gremlins in there waitng to attack
#22
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by kjurkic
I am getting a local hydraulic shop to fab my fuel & return soft lines ($50 for pair vs ~$200) I will see if they have any ideas on the rails. I may look at replacing all the hardlines - which gets back to changing the rails over to ones that can accept standard injectors. Does anyone know if the L-jet will play nice with standard injectors - say ones swiped off a newish Ford (I always get confused over the high/low impedance issue)
Regards
Ken
Regards
Ken
L-jet injectors are low impedance at ~2.3 ohms: beginning with the 32v engines, the LH units were set to fire the Bosch high impedance units at ~14.5 ohms ( for the 928, any injector that clips into the fuel rail with an O-ring seal is high impedance, AFAIK).
I replaced a leaking L- jet injector and all hoses on the rails a couple of days ago ... and the rear pressure reg. hoses. With an eye to the supply & return hoses on the right side, I am interested in what you had made up to replace them.... for they are the only 'flex' link between engine and chassis. Any details?
I have a pair of L-jet rails here that look to be as new .... but I can't get inside to verify : the injectors that were attached have clean strainer baskets.
#23
You are certain that is rust and not varnish deposits ? They can look very similar. If you soaked those in POR 15 Marine Clean, they might surprise you. I'm sure used rails would be easier, but even if they are rusted, you could line them with gas tank sealant & send compressed air through them to purge any excess. Good luck with your search.
#24
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Garth, I had a local hydraulic shop fab up a pair of braided hoses for the supply/return on the pass side. If he had the proper connectors, it would have been only about $50, but since he had to salvage the old connectors, then braise them onto new compression collars, it took a few hours of shop time. Still got both for much less than one retails for, and i got them back the same day. Even if I stay with the stock rails & injectors for now, I read about a project to use a GM ECU, MAF & injectors, and will see if I can get the parts together for that project.
Daniel, I guess I should have tried a magnet on the crud; didn't occur that it might be varnish....unfortunately I tossed the "sample". I will see if I can shake out a little more & test it.
Regards all
Ken
Daniel, I guess I should have tried a magnet on the crud; didn't occur that it might be varnish....unfortunately I tossed the "sample". I will see if I can shake out a little more & test it.
Regards all
Ken
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For ALL shark owners with early models
UPDATE:
for the 2 or 3 people following this thread, I checked as per Daniel's suggestion -dried varnish-, and the residue is in fact rust (see pic in 1st post). It stuck to a magnet very well.
Another "WYAIT" was to check all coolant hardlines for corrosion, and I found a couple of coolant tubes that are very close to being rotted through, and now have to replace those.
This particular car had only 112,000 mi, and the body & chassis are exceptionally clean, so most PO's took fairly good care of this car, at least in the appearance dept. Having owned a few other brands cars of the same vintage & seen the same issues, I would suspect that no matter how well a vehicle is cared for, these items just plain age, and anyone else out there with a 25+ year old car had best tear into their car like this.
I don't know if there is enough market for this, but someone may want to look at building a complete fuel/coolant/vacuum/CCV line "kit" for early 928's. I know that most of the molded hoses are available, but buying piecemeal makes the whole project very expensive, and many of the molded pieces can easily be substituted with the proper universal hose, ie I found some hose with internal coil wire that allows very tight radius without collapse, that is petroleum rated, to replace all my lines to crankcase & oil separator. That cost me about $10CDN
The problem I run into here in my small remote village, is that most suppliers do not stock metric fittings (try & explain to them that Canada has been metric for over 30 years, and every single car built since the 80's is metric, and you just get a blank stare - "no one buys the metric stuff" they complain. "stock it and they will come" I say)
Oh well...I am glad to say that pieces are now going ONTO the car rather than coming off, so progress is being made.
Later y'all
Ken
for the 2 or 3 people following this thread, I checked as per Daniel's suggestion -dried varnish-, and the residue is in fact rust (see pic in 1st post). It stuck to a magnet very well.
Another "WYAIT" was to check all coolant hardlines for corrosion, and I found a couple of coolant tubes that are very close to being rotted through, and now have to replace those.
This particular car had only 112,000 mi, and the body & chassis are exceptionally clean, so most PO's took fairly good care of this car, at least in the appearance dept. Having owned a few other brands cars of the same vintage & seen the same issues, I would suspect that no matter how well a vehicle is cared for, these items just plain age, and anyone else out there with a 25+ year old car had best tear into their car like this.
I don't know if there is enough market for this, but someone may want to look at building a complete fuel/coolant/vacuum/CCV line "kit" for early 928's. I know that most of the molded hoses are available, but buying piecemeal makes the whole project very expensive, and many of the molded pieces can easily be substituted with the proper universal hose, ie I found some hose with internal coil wire that allows very tight radius without collapse, that is petroleum rated, to replace all my lines to crankcase & oil separator. That cost me about $10CDN
The problem I run into here in my small remote village, is that most suppliers do not stock metric fittings (try & explain to them that Canada has been metric for over 30 years, and every single car built since the 80's is metric, and you just get a blank stare - "no one buys the metric stuff" they complain. "stock it and they will come" I say)
Oh well...I am glad to say that pieces are now going ONTO the car rather than coming off, so progress is being made.
Later y'all
Ken