BC

The oil holes for drain back are outboard of anything that is being bolted to the 13MM bolt area closes to where the rods swing around. If these holes are not covered, I am not sure how the oil is being blocked.

The oil is pressurized into the crank, and comes out from the sides of the main bearings, and the rods.

It then will fall down either straight into the pan, or onto the spinning crank, or off the crank onto various areas in the crank case.

I'm just kind of brain storming. There was an extensive thread that Kevin Johnson contributed several months ago.

The situation that Greg Brown's system is attacking is the flinging oil, and the pan's close proximity to the crank and rods, which is relatively close it seems.

BC

I guess as a start we would need more pictures of where the sloshing is being blocked.

BC

Okay, so my earlier statement is wrong - the oil drain holes are not outboard of the crank (only) but are inboard as well.

BC

BC

Couple hours of reading here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...hlight=Scraper

BC

You mean on the right side?

BC

Then obviously more work was done for better draining past the framing?

I need to send mine back and get the update then.

Where is that deflector deflecting the oil to?

BC

Obviously we all know that dry sump is the best, but many people just don't have the room or time to put it into use. This can be done on an installed engine (well, held up by 2x4s in the engine bay).

I think this (whatever Greg is doing with that screen) plus a large pan spacer is the best situation right now?

Its just "how low do you wanna go" with the pan.

Vilhuer

Kevin mentioned to me that pan spacer is needed. I'm not sure if it must be added because there isn't space at all without it in stroker or if its just good practice from oil control point of view. This doesn't even matter as in my case as some kind of spacer is definitelly going in and it will be as thick as possible. I should have latest setup from Johnson.

I think starter is first part on line which will prevent really thick spacer to be used. Anyone have measurement how much oil pan can be dropped before starter becomes problem? I'm not so much worried about cross member under the engine as I think engine can be lifted up a little. At least when gear selectors front joint is changed to something little less tall. Though lifting block up could cause problems with 928Intl headers.

BC

Well, it is good that I have two of those then.

I suppose if you really wanted to be serious, you could make a new starter ring for the intermediate plate where it goes. I wonder how bg you could go before hitting something.

For all that work, a Dry sump is easier.

Vilhuer

I take you mean Carl & Co will get some more $$$ from me then?

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/hitorquestarter.php

What is difference in '78-86 and '87+ starters anyway?

I suspect there isn't room in bellhousing to go much bigger and its easiest just to change starter anyway.

90 S-4

When I get closer to installing my motor I'm going to spend a lot of time
trying to see what it would take to use a reverse rotation starter motor,
placed behind the flywheel (clock it 180°) Buy a used alum cover and start
carving it up. I think it would have to be more in the center of the down
pipes to be able to clear them. An aftermarket high torque starter is smaller,
the extra room gained there would be needed while moving the starter to
the 6:00 o'clock position. I don't see why this couldn't be accomplished with
the right resources ( Big 3 ?? !! ) A kit could be sold, modified alum, housing
starter & wire eextension $500 should more than cover the cost of the kit.
With the starter finally out of the way we could pickup an additional 1.5",
with a little rack sshuffling-- then build a proper oiling system.
The other part of the kit would have an exchange oil pan program, send them
yours and get one back that's been modified. It could be made deeper and
retain the oem pan rail area. No need for spacers. But go ahead and install
screens and baffles and whatever else that would be wanted.

BC

Not much difference. The difference in mounting could be important. Early cars, 78 and maybe 80 and 81 have the starter mounted to the lower bell housing, and later enignes have a large metal bracket that is bolted to the actual block, and the starter just sits in an open hole on the bell housing.

Vilhuer

I knew early years starter was mounted to bottom part instead of separate mount until '83 MY. I also knew about different mounts in '83-'86 and '87-'95. Looking at diagrams, wiring change from 3 to 2 points was done already in '85 MY. Despite all these changes PET gives one single starter part number for all MY's, '78-95. Strange if Carl's starter doesn't fit '87-95.

BC

It does. The spacer Mr. Gee mentions is the pan spacer. I have two of these super small starters.