Great tool for removing relays...and cheap
#16
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Originally Posted by IcemanG17
Harvey
You are a brave brave man to use a metal screwdriver to pull relays in a 928..... :>)
I spent the $25 to buy a puller pliers from 928GT.....well worth it.....just make sure you don't pull the cover off the relay instead of pulling the relay...ask me how I know!!
You are a brave brave man to use a metal screwdriver to pull relays in a 928..... :>)
I spent the $25 to buy a puller pliers from 928GT.....well worth it.....just make sure you don't pull the cover off the relay instead of pulling the relay...ask me how I know!!
That's the problem...the covers come off too easy...so I like to get under the relays....with tape over the metal. So far, so good. Poof!!
The paint can opener looks good and would be cheaper than what I did....just needs protective tape.
BTW, Iceman, your car's combo is really nice. I like it.
Harvey
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Originally Posted by Ted928
I struggle with the install not the removal. I pushed too hard on the fuel pump relay and now the receiver is no longer anchored. I have to carefully support the back with my non-isolated fingers. Can this be easily repaired?
Thanks
Thanks
You need to take out the CE panel (!) - the front (face plate) of the relay socket unclips (2 clip tabs to lift either side) - then the relay socket easily clips back into the main panel and the face plate attaches from the front to lock it in - this only works if both the face plate and the socket base are undamaged - they usually are still OK when this happens.
BTW your fingers are insulated pretty well for 12V - but do disconnect the battery before working on the panel!
Alan
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Here's what I like to use(Batt. disconnected). One problem with most "puller" tools is, on the early CE panels you can pull the socket right out of the panel. With this mini-flatbar, you can get the right-angled end under the relay, then rock it side-to-side (e.g. by pushing the thin edge of the tool) and it will lever the relay out by pushing against the socket. No more broken sockets!
Note that whatever insulating coating you put on a metal tool, something can poke through the insulation, and it will -- usually at the worst possible time! YMMV...
Note that whatever insulating coating you put on a metal tool, something can poke through the insulation, and it will -- usually at the worst possible time! YMMV...
![](https://members.rennlist.com/sharkskin/Pages_SA_R04-RelayPuller.jpg)
#20
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On my car the safest way to remove relays is a 13mm wrench..........Snap On in my case.
I use it to disconnect the battery; then I get in behind the relays with whatever tool fits.
I use it to disconnect the battery; then I get in behind the relays with whatever tool fits.
#21
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Originally Posted by F4GIB
![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
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Originally Posted by Garth S
That is close to perfect ... I tried to order a handful or two from those guys - to place one in every car and pass some on to friends: the mangey sob's
wouldn't mail out to a furriner .... muttering something about homeland security ..... so I made a better ones at home in minutes.
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We're highly jealous of your beautiful area...and we don't want to send out very sophistocated equipment that could pull fuses.
H2
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Ted - depends what you call easy... I'd say yes not too hard.
You need to take out the CE panel (!) - the front (face plate) of the relay socket unclips (2 clip tabs to lift either side) - then the relay socket easily clips back into the main panel and the face plate attaches from the front to lock it in - this only works if both the face plate and the socket base are undamaged - they usually are still OK when this happens.
BTW your fingers are insulated pretty well for 12V - but do disconnect the battery before working on the panel!
Alan
You need to take out the CE panel (!) - the front (face plate) of the relay socket unclips (2 clip tabs to lift either side) - then the relay socket easily clips back into the main panel and the face plate attaches from the front to lock it in - this only works if both the face plate and the socket base are undamaged - they usually are still OK when this happens.
BTW your fingers are insulated pretty well for 12V - but do disconnect the battery before working on the panel!
Alan
Thanks
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#29
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These are so effective looking I ordered some... I also have a pair that grip the can (single only) with wide corner plates on opposing corners - with secure cans they are very very good (any height relay). If the can is loose they will pull it right off...
These have 2 plates at 90 degrees on opposing corners for the relay. When attached they cover >50% of all 4 sides of the relay - there is much less chance to crush the can than on the commonly available corner types. But I can't seem to find them on sale anywhere anymore...
Alan
#30
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I easily bent two to those; not nearly strong enough to pull mine. Get something more robust. Liquid tape also not good enough, edges cut thru.