Correct insert for the shift cup
#1
Racer
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Correct insert for the shift cup
I searched and found numerous posts but stuck on this one -
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ight=shift+cup
Dow in the threads two PNs came up and the discussion spun into pantyhose from there...
One said, "The correct insert ( for the cup) is 928 116 145 03 IIRC."
and farther down one said, "I purchased the 928.424.005.01 Angular Joint.".
As I need to complete this surgery, can anyone direct me to the "correct" PN and possibly a supplier in leu of the dealer (Raleigh is a long drive).
Thanks.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ight=shift+cup
Dow in the threads two PNs came up and the discussion spun into pantyhose from there...
One said, "The correct insert ( for the cup) is 928 116 145 03 IIRC."
and farther down one said, "I purchased the 928.424.005.01 Angular Joint.".
As I need to complete this surgery, can anyone direct me to the "correct" PN and possibly a supplier in leu of the dealer (Raleigh is a long drive).
Thanks.
#5
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The correct part number for the Angular Joint on the front shift rod is 928.424.005.01
Jeannie or Pam will be happy to help you - call them at
(828) 766-9280, and see how our price compares with the dealer's.
They are in Spruce Pine...
Jeannie or Pam will be happy to help you - call them at
(828) 766-9280, and see how our price compares with the dealer's.
They are in Spruce Pine...
#7
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The angular joint is what Porsche intended that you use click on our store site below we have them we ship them ...they typically work for 15-20 years.
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#10
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All the 5 speeds use the same front angular joint and rear coupler, just variations of the shift rods and shifter. Porsche never bothered to improve what they felt was a good part with acceptable reliability. But I know the feeling when it pops off and you can stir circles with the shift lever...that is pantyhose time !
#11
Burning Brakes
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I read in one of the threads here that the bushing used on the clutch fork is the same size/fit as the front ball socket bushing on the shift rod (on certain model years), so that there wasn't any need to buy and whole new Angular Joint. Has anyone else shown this to be true? I can see the reason for purchasing a whole new Angular Joint if the bushing has been missing for a long time and the joint itself is worn, but just to pay $60-$70 for a $12 bushing is ridiculous.
...Or, even the same situation with the rear coupler.....buy a whole new coupler for $80 just for some push-in bushings? That's ridiculous. With a little modification, a $2.50 hard rubber stopper from lowe's works just fine.
This is also similar to the same situation with the Lower Idler Assembly on the lower front of the engine. Since Porsche doesn't sell the roller bearing by itself, we are stuck buying a $100+ part. ......OR we can go to a local transmission shop and pick up the same bearing for $5.50.
...Or, even the same situation with the rear coupler.....buy a whole new coupler for $80 just for some push-in bushings? That's ridiculous. With a little modification, a $2.50 hard rubber stopper from lowe's works just fine.
This is also similar to the same situation with the Lower Idler Assembly on the lower front of the engine. Since Porsche doesn't sell the roller bearing by itself, we are stuck buying a $100+ part. ......OR we can go to a local transmission shop and pick up the same bearing for $5.50.
#12
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Originally Posted by EC928NC
I searched and found numerous posts but stuck on this one
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ight=shift+cup
One said, "The correct insert ( for the cup) is 928 116 145 03 IIRC."
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ight=shift+cup
One said, "The correct insert ( for the cup) is 928 116 145 03 IIRC."
BTW, Welcome to the forum!
#13
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When I measured the ball on the clutch and the ball on the shift linkage they were NOT the same just close. The plastic is a different color and may or may not be the same material. Does it work better than a worn out missing plastic socket ? absolutely. Would I do it on the old very brown 1980 ...NOPE . Having watched Mark Anderson with his racing for about 20 years it quickly became apparent that stock original parts used as intended are FAR more reliable than 99% of the aftermarket stuff. So I put the angular joint on the very brown when it needed it ! But no pantyhose
#14
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Originally Posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
Having watched Mark Anderson with his racing for about 20 years it quickly became apparent that stock original parts used as intended are FAR more reliable than 99% of the aftermarket stuff.
Actually, is it possible to replace the ball socket on the torque tube with the clutch fork ball socket; if the torque tube was already out for other maintenance/repairs?
Just a thought....
BTW, I replaced one of the rear coupler bushings 4 years ago with the lowes rubber stopper and checked it several days ago. The other bushing, which was original, had crumbled and the DIY bushing was doing all the work by itself.
EDIT: ....on the other hand, I think my anchor motor mounts are failing after 2 1/2 years .