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100.000km service

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Old 02-26-2007 | 06:39 PM
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Default 100.000km service

1992 GTS 100.000km service

My shark is about to have 100.000km. I will try to do the entire service my self. This forum gave me the necessary courage and ease to go forward. It is amazing the amount and quality of knowledge some of you have. And the spirit to share with others. Very beautiful.

Here is a list of the parts I thing necessary to this service including all belts, plugs and cables, filters, etc.

Can you please take a look at the list and see if there is something missing?

Thank you.

Part nº description qty

Normal service

92810720105 Oil filter 1
90012311830 sealing ring 1
92811018503 Air filter 1
92811344500 smog pump filter 1
92811025306 Fuel filter 1
99919228650 power steering belt 1
99919234750 Alternator belt 1
99919233550 AC belt 1
99919230650 Air pump belt 1
Wr4477 Bosch platinum plug +4 84-95 8
928602063st 89-95 plug wire set 909 1
92860221101 Distributor cap 85-95 2
92860221300 Ignition rotor 2
92851113903
Front hood shock 2
92857247900 Polen filter 1

Timing belt

92810601520 water pump 1
92810613405 water pump gasket 1
92810515750 timing belt 1
92810551212 Tensioner roller 78-95 1
92810557104 Idler roller 87-95 1
92810561105 Belt tensioner gasket 1983-95 1
92810561304 Tensioner arm bushing 85-95 2
92810555208 Tensioner boot 85-95 1
99970165040 o-ring 27,5x1,5 tensioner piston 1
99951256402 Timing Belt Tensioner Boot Clamp 83-95 1

Gear oil change

90012311830 sealing ring 1

Differential oil change

?

Brake oil change

?

Coolant water change

?

Tools

00072192020 Tension tool
00072191611 Flywheel Lock Tool, 83-95
? Fender service cover
Old 02-26-2007 | 08:37 PM
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Miguel

Flush & recharge the PSD if you are doing all the rest - my guess is its probably never been done unless you have records of it...

Thats a good lengthy list there already!

Clean the evaporator when you change the pollen filter..

Do you need the front hood shocks or is it just preventative? if preventative I'd hold off installing till it starts drooping... maybe delay buying until that happens - not critical and usually a slow deterioration.

Alan
Old 02-26-2007 | 08:45 PM
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Seeing how your going to this extent why not flush the power steering and replace the filter/reservoir.

Does the car have an auto transmission?
Old 02-27-2007 | 03:37 AM
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Do '92-93 GTS have pollen filter, didn't it come in '94-95 MY only? PET lists it to all GTS but I think its mistake.
Old 02-27-2007 | 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
Seeing how your going to this extent why not flush the power steering and replace the filter/reservoir.

Does the car have an auto transmission?
I didn’t study the power steering flush procedure. But my idea is that it’s not easy. The GTS is automatic.

When I’m done with all this my next step will be the exhaust. I’ve been reading old threads and realised most of you changed it with good results. That must be fun.
Old 02-27-2007 | 05:01 AM
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Replace water pump bolts. In fact replace any bolts that mate with alluminium threads unless they are perfect (especially the tensioner bolts).

Replace the power steering resevoir rubber hose, even if it looks ok.

You don't need new idler rollers, just press out and replace the bearings in them.
Old 02-27-2007 | 01:14 PM
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PS flush is easy.

-Get an extra set of copper sealing washers.
-With car on jack stands:
-Loosen return hose on rack, allow to drain -- turn wheel lock-to-lock a few times to get all of the fluid that you can
-Replace reservoir(with built-in filter -- If it's original, it's probably time to replace)
-Refill, turning wheel lock-to-lock a couple times to drive out air.
-Start car, turn wheels lock-to-lock a couple times while keeping reservoir full
-Shut car off
-Repeat drain & fill twice more
-After draining for the 3rd time, reattach return line at rack with new sealing washers, torque to spec(22 ft/lbs)
-Refill to top line, driving out as much air as possible. Check the level the next two mornings (after driving the previous day). By the 2nd morning all of the air should be out of the system and the level should be stable.

This takes about an hour tops, and should return your steering to a nice silky feel.
Old 02-27-2007 | 01:25 PM
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Daves method is one way of flushing the power steering; another is extending the return hose from where it normally attaches to the reservoir, cap the res. return spigot and put the extention in a collector vessel. Start the car and be ready to refill the reservior a few times with fresh fluid. Go through a couple of fills, stop the engine, fit the new res with filter, top up with fluid, restart the car, strg wheel back and forth a few times, check level. Finished.
Old 02-27-2007 | 02:42 PM
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Malcom, that works too but IIRC if you're not cycling the rack most of the fluid goes through a bypass circuit, leaving the rack full of old fluid. I don't have enough hands to do it your way plus cycle the rack! I'll try to follow up and see if I can find where I saw an explanation of the hydraulic circuits in the rack.
Old 02-27-2007 | 03:12 PM
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See item 2A, post #91 here.

"The first 15 degree's (for simple measurement) in either direction is a gradual increase in flow, or power assist, from 0 to 100%."

Without turning the wheel fluid is not circulating through the whole rack.

I thought I had seen a diagram that schematically illustrates this, but I can't find it at the moment.
Old 02-27-2007 | 03:19 PM
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Sorry Dave I should have extrapolated. When I did the fluid flush/res change I did have an assistant...........I either made or paid for supper that night.

Your point is very valid though and for everyone out there who does this job be well prepared with open bottles of fluid...........it flushes very fast.
Old 02-27-2007 | 03:41 PM
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Your way sounds a lot faster, if I have an assistant next time I will try it that way. I briefly considered doing that the first time. Aside from not having an assistant at that point, AFAIK my PS system had never been flushed(I drained it when I first changed the PS hoses though). With a new rack I wanted to flush thoroughly so I ran it lock-to-lock 10x per fill, fill & drain 5x. I only used about 3-1/2 qts. ATF. Each time, after cycling the rack, the fluid had warmed up a bit -- which may have helped a bit(at least that's what I told myself). Next time it won't have gone so long between flushes so I'll probably do it the quick way.
Old 02-27-2007 | 04:01 PM
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Service Info Tech 1978 is always good place to look info which hasn't changed over the years.



There are other pictures in same document also which show how fluid flows inside rack control valve and pump.
Old 02-27-2007 | 04:04 PM
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It's all good Dave.

Now that part of the 100k km service is covered I would also venture to do the auto transmission if there's not been record of recent service. Tony Harkins site has a good write up.
Old 02-27-2007 | 05:02 PM
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Ok, I will change the PS oil.

With all this work to be done and the short available time to dwell around the shark it will take several months to finish the job.

Thank you again to all.

Just a comment to Dave, I can’t stop laughing about the second built car. But I think that was just after the invention of the wheel. You can do a lot down a hill.



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