PSD unit is loose; mounting tab broke
02-09-2007, 01:27 PM
#1
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PSD unit is loose; mounting tab broke
I found something rather interesting last night while I was replacing my right rear side marker incandescent bulb with an LED: my PSD unit didn't seem solidly mounted to the car body. The left side (as viewed in the next photo) seemed pretty solid, but the right side was pretty bouncy. Just didn't seem right.
Furthermore, as I moved the right side up and down, it was squeaky -- suspiciously like a squeaking noise that I've heard while driving and that I always assumed was either the rear hatch or the suspension or some such. I didn't think too much more about it at as I continued to remove the side marker assembly (I was replacing the seal while I was in there).
So, once I got the side marker fixture out, I looked into the hole, and here's what I saw:
A little closer in:
Actually, the above photos were taken after I removed a little bit of bent metal that had mostly snapped off. And I had already started loosening that nut.
The M6 nut in the above photo is the one that threads onto the stud at the bottom of the rear mounting bracket (reference #25 in the diagram below):
So, it appears that the rear PSD unit mounting bracket attached to a piece of metal (mounting tab/ear of some sort) that was welded to the channel on the right of the above photos that show the nut. That mounting tab/ear must have flexed enough over time that metal fatigue took its toll and eventually it snapped. So, that part of the PSD unit is now just floating there (and making annoying squeaking noises).
Tonight's job will be repairing this somehow. I think I'll just drill a hole in that channel, feed a bolt in from the back (that'll be fun exercise in fishing a bolt through from the rear, where there's almost no working room, and drilling the hole should be interesting, too!), attach a steel angle bracket, and bolt everything together. Would be easy, except everything is really tight in there and there's a ton of PSD crap in the way.
BTW, both rear side marker bulbs are a pain to replace on my car (S4 with PSD). The right rear side marker is right against the fuel tank; I had to unscrew the side marker assembly and push it out away from the car to get the bulb replaced. The left rear side marker isn't a whole lot better; it's almost right against the PSD pump, but there's barely enough clearance to get the bulb out. I'll be happy to have LEDs in there, because I never want to have to mess with these again!
Furthermore, as I moved the right side up and down, it was squeaky -- suspiciously like a squeaking noise that I've heard while driving and that I always assumed was either the rear hatch or the suspension or some such. I didn't think too much more about it at as I continued to remove the side marker assembly (I was replacing the seal while I was in there).
So, once I got the side marker fixture out, I looked into the hole, and here's what I saw:
A little closer in:
Actually, the above photos were taken after I removed a little bit of bent metal that had mostly snapped off. And I had already started loosening that nut.
The M6 nut in the above photo is the one that threads onto the stud at the bottom of the rear mounting bracket (reference #25 in the diagram below):
So, it appears that the rear PSD unit mounting bracket attached to a piece of metal (mounting tab/ear of some sort) that was welded to the channel on the right of the above photos that show the nut. That mounting tab/ear must have flexed enough over time that metal fatigue took its toll and eventually it snapped. So, that part of the PSD unit is now just floating there (and making annoying squeaking noises).
Tonight's job will be repairing this somehow. I think I'll just drill a hole in that channel, feed a bolt in from the back (that'll be fun exercise in fishing a bolt through from the rear, where there's almost no working room, and drilling the hole should be interesting, too!), attach a steel angle bracket, and bolt everything together. Would be easy, except everything is really tight in there and there's a ton of PSD crap in the way.
BTW, both rear side marker bulbs are a pain to replace on my car (S4 with PSD). The right rear side marker is right against the fuel tank; I had to unscrew the side marker assembly and push it out away from the car to get the bulb replaced. The left rear side marker isn't a whole lot better; it's almost right against the PSD pump, but there's barely enough clearance to get the bulb out. I'll be happy to have LEDs in there, because I never want to have to mess with these again!
02-09-2007, 02:45 PM
#2
Drifting
I don't see the problem. But, just remove the whole PSD assembly from the car. It comes out quite easily as a unit. Looks like it needs a good cleaning anyway.
Disconnect the pressure line at the hose by the differential and remove that line with the PSD assembly.
On the rear marker lights..... It's easy to reinstall if you install the rear inside bracket and wing nut first, then insert the lamp from the outside.
Disconnect the pressure line at the hose by the differential and remove that line with the PSD assembly.
On the rear marker lights..... It's easy to reinstall if you install the rear inside bracket and wing nut first, then insert the lamp from the outside.
02-09-2007, 04:54 PM
#3
Drifting
Bleeding the PSD slave not a big deal. If you remove the assembly, you'll have a better picture of what's wrong, if anything.
I seem to remember the lower bracket attached to the chassis as being quite substantial. Don't see how that piece could be damaged.
I seem to remember the lower bracket attached to the chassis as being quite substantial. Don't see how that piece could be damaged.
02-09-2007, 05:27 PM
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Ed,
mine was the same, I think due to careless removal in the past by some one not realising that rear bolt and nut was there.
I fixed mine by adding and shaping some aluminum mesh glued into place with epoxy attaching the part that had come loose.
This was two Years ago and it is still tight and solid, no problem since.
You do have to take the whole PSD unit out though and bleed it properly after.
/Peter
mine was the same, I think due to careless removal in the past by some one not realising that rear bolt and nut was there.
I fixed mine by adding and shaping some aluminum mesh glued into place with epoxy attaching the part that had come loose.
This was two Years ago and it is still tight and solid, no problem since.
You do have to take the whole PSD unit out though and bleed it properly after.
/Peter
Last edited by Peter F; 02-09-2007 at 07:36 PM.
02-09-2007, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by borland
Bleeding the PSD slave not a big deal. If you remove the assembly, you'll have a better picture of what's wrong, if anything.
I seem to remember the lower bracket attached to the chassis as being quite substantial. Don't see how that piece could be damaged.
I seem to remember the lower bracket attached to the chassis as being quite substantial. Don't see how that piece could be damaged.
That whole bracket with the stud and nut on it is now just floating freely.
BTW, I was thinking about doing the PSD bleed while I'm in there anyway, since it has been a few years since it was last done.
Last edited by Ed Scherer; 02-09-2007 at 05:53 PM.
02-09-2007, 05:47 PM
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BTW, the funny thing about this whole episode is that it's just another example of wanting to get something done (it was well after midnight when I got to this) and then running into something nasty 
when I thought I was minutes away from buttoning everything up again.
It's not really that big a deal. Just annoying. And I guess it's also worth noting that it's always a good idea to take a look around whenever you've got some covers off, wheel well liners off, etc., just to see how things are holding up. Our cars are starting to show their age a bit.
And thanks all for your comments. Peter, nice to know that it's happened to someone else. I hope to be able to share a photo of the fix within the next day.
Borland: you'll be glad to know that I did a really significant non-LED upgrade while I was doing the LEDs on the side markers: I've switched to stainless steel wing nuts (from the original hex nuts). Those suckers ran something like $2.50 each (!) at my local hardware store! Metric + stainless = $$$ in the U.S.!
when I thought I was minutes away from buttoning everything up again.It's not really that big a deal. Just annoying. And I guess it's also worth noting that it's always a good idea to take a look around whenever you've got some covers off, wheel well liners off, etc., just to see how things are holding up. Our cars are starting to show their age a bit.
And thanks all for your comments. Peter, nice to know that it's happened to someone else. I hope to be able to share a photo of the fix within the next day.
Borland: you'll be glad to know that I did a really significant non-LED upgrade while I was doing the LEDs on the side markers: I've switched to stainless steel wing nuts (from the original hex nuts). Those suckers ran something like $2.50 each (!) at my local hardware store! Metric + stainless = $$$ in the U.S.!
02-09-2007, 05:54 PM
#7
Drifting
I get it now. Like Peter suggested, you can fabricate and attach a new L bracket with some self taping sheet metal screws.
A little secret....You can use the ignition key to bleed the PSD slave and save some time.
The ABS controller does a diagnostic test of the PSD solenoid valve upon power up by the ignition switch. So, every time you start the engine, the ABS controller fires the solenoid. If you've got a good ear, you can hear it click.
So by repeated ignition on, ignition off, you can actually bleed the slave unit. I've done it this way. Not real fast, but it works.
A little secret....You can use the ignition key to bleed the PSD slave and save some time.
The ABS controller does a diagnostic test of the PSD solenoid valve upon power up by the ignition switch. So, every time you start the engine, the ABS controller fires the solenoid. If you've got a good ear, you can hear it click.
So by repeated ignition on, ignition off, you can actually bleed the slave unit. I've done it this way. Not real fast, but it works.
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02-09-2007, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by borland
I get it now. Like Peter suggested, you can fabricate and attach a new L bracket with some self taping sheet metal screws.
A little secret....You can use the ignition key to bleed the PSD slave and save some time.
The ABS controller does a diagnostic test of the PSD solenoid valve upon power up by the ignition switch. So, every time you start the engine, the ABS controller fires the solenoid. If you've got a good ear, you can hear it click.
So by repeated ignition on, ignition off, you can actually bleed the slave unit. I've done it this way. Not real fast, but it works.
A little secret....You can use the ignition key to bleed the PSD slave and save some time.
The ABS controller does a diagnostic test of the PSD solenoid valve upon power up by the ignition switch. So, every time you start the engine, the ABS controller fires the solenoid. If you've got a good ear, you can hear it click.
So by repeated ignition on, ignition off, you can actually bleed the slave unit. I've done it this way. Not real fast, but it works.
Thanks for the hints on the PSD bleed. I've got the Ott/Veninger PSD Fluid Flushing Procedure (off the 928OC web site) already printed off, so I was just going to follow that.
BTW, Barry, keep the postings coming on your LED upgrade progress, too. I've found those to be interesting. We're taking slightly different directions on some things, but it's really great sharing the ideas and results. You're a little more willing to significantly alter stuff than I am at this point; if your results are a lot better, I might follow your lead.
02-10-2007, 05:14 PM
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Fixed.
Wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be. Didn't need to remove anything else. Just drilled a hole (really long 1/4" drill bit squeezed right above the PSD pump and right below some other PSD stuff worked nicely). Pulled the M6 bolt through the hole from back to front with a tiny wire and got it all bolted up with a little 1 1/2" corner bracket. Luckily, I had a bent-nose/long-nose pliers that happened to perfectly turn the corner behind that channel that allowed me to hold the bolt on the back while tightening down the nut on the front.
So... PSD is well supported once again. Back to what I was trying to do before I noticed this problem.
Wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be. Didn't need to remove anything else. Just drilled a hole (really long 1/4" drill bit squeezed right above the PSD pump and right below some other PSD stuff worked nicely). Pulled the M6 bolt through the hole from back to front with a tiny wire and got it all bolted up with a little 1 1/2" corner bracket. Luckily, I had a bent-nose/long-nose pliers that happened to perfectly turn the corner behind that channel that allowed me to hold the bolt on the back while tightening down the nut on the front.
So... PSD is well supported once again. Back to what I was trying to do before I noticed this problem.
12-16-2007, 03:01 PM
#10
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I'm doing a torque tube R&R on my GT and need to drop the tranny a bit. I presume this connection is the easiest one to undo in order to free up the PSD tubing? How much fluid am I going to lose out of this connector?
(I think the line workers were having some sort of Cosmoline contest that day......)
(I think the line workers were having some sort of Cosmoline contest that day......)
12-16-2007, 03:42 PM
#11
Drifting
Well, if you want to mess with the copper gasket then that will work, but I'd suggest you break the line at the hose fitting in the upper left corner of the photo.
Make sure you use flare wrenches so as not to damage the tube fitting flats.
As for the leakage..... depends on how long you have it disconnected. Only a few drops at disconnect and later a couple table spoons. I'd suggest you clean the grease from the areas of the fitting first. Follow by water rince and dry. After you break the fittings, bag each end in plastic so as to catch the brake fluid and minimize contamination of the brake fluid line with grease/oil.
So what's causing all the grease buildup? Is that coming from a leaking oil pan, spraying all the way back?
Make sure you use flare wrenches so as not to damage the tube fitting flats.
As for the leakage..... depends on how long you have it disconnected. Only a few drops at disconnect and later a couple table spoons. I'd suggest you clean the grease from the areas of the fitting first. Follow by water rince and dry. After you break the fittings, bag each end in plastic so as to catch the brake fluid and minimize contamination of the brake fluid line with grease/oil.
So what's causing all the grease buildup? Is that coming from a leaking oil pan, spraying all the way back?
12-16-2007, 04:05 PM
#13
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This is the second fractrured PSD bracket that I heard oif in th last couple of weeks.
Guy in the UK found it was the source of the annoying squeaking noise from the rear of his car.
Sounds like these brackets are at the end of their "design life".
Guy in the UK found it was the source of the annoying squeaking noise from the rear of his car.
Sounds like these brackets are at the end of their "design life".
12-16-2007, 04:06 PM
#14
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You know I have a squeak coming from that area too and I've always thought it was the exhaust... maybe I shoud take a peek up in there... Thanks. 
12-16-2007, 04:35 PM
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Borland:
Thanks for the tip. I'll try the other connection. The entire underbody was a massive slick when I bought it, from a severely leaking pan gasket (now fixed).
Andrew: I don't think that boot is split, it's just a reflection. I'm going to R&R the boots anyway while it's all apart, and swap the axles side to side.
Thanks for the tip. I'll try the other connection. The entire underbody was a massive slick when I bought it, from a severely leaking pan gasket (now fixed).
Andrew: I don't think that boot is split, it's just a reflection. I'm going to R&R the boots anyway while it's all apart, and swap the axles side to side.
