biggiefl

Doing my trans fluid change this saturday and my wife misplaced my manual. I got a new OEM filter and gasket kit along with ATF fluid. My question is where is the TC drain plug and do I need a specal tool? Once pan is drained and TC, how much fluid does it take ballpark? When full, hot and running the fluid level should be at the top of the cutout notch on resevoir bracket right, not 3/4 up the resevoir(I think I am a bit overfull).

Richard S

You will need to rotate the engine/torque-tube to be able to get to the TC drain plug. The drain plug is on the TC, there is an opening to allow you to see/access it, so just rotate it until you can see the plug is in the correct spot. No special tool needed. Since the wife misplaced the manual, have her rotate the engine by hand while you lay under the TC to visually position the plug.

Rich

biggiefl

Not a poblem with her bumping the key

What about the fluid amount and levels?

I also see that many have the same problem I am experiencing with a flare between 2-3rd(4spds) that is cured with a new spring kit. I have a 3spd and flare between 1-2nd(only when hot). Any spring kit for me while I am in there? If so anyone have a MB part#? I am pretty confident that new filter, fluid and a can of Lucas oil will work but while i am in there....

jpitman2

You can rotate the TC with a screwdriver through the vents on its casing, just do it in normal engine rotation direction. The plug is an allen socket, probably 8mm IIRC. Mine took 5.5L to the full mark - fill reservoir as much as possible, fire it up briefly to suck in fluid, stop, top up, repeat until wont take any more and on the line. Only issue I had was a weep at the pan tube banjo, needed nipping up a week later.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

dr bob

You'll spend a bit of time and aggravation trying to get the TC drain lined up if you are bumping the starter. Do yourself and the starter the favor and use a wrench on the nose of the crankshaft. Add a paint dot on the balancer at the correct position and the next time will be a lot easier. Remember clockwise only, from the front! (Righty-tighty, lefty-damage-the-T-belt-tensioner possible, and risk a belt skip at best)

Torque on the drain plugs (pan and TC) may be somewhat critical if you plan on getting them out again next time. 10.3 lb/ft, 124 lb/inch, at least on the 4-speed. The drain pan itself on the 4-speed goes on with much less, about 6 lb/ft, 71 lb/inch. too much will warp the flange on the pan, and you'll have leaks. For all of these you'll have the 1/4"-drive inch-pound torque wrench. Dialing the 3/8 wrench down that low generally means you are out of any meaningful accuracy area on the wrench. Sorry that I don't have the little tech specs book for your earlier 3-speed car.

JFCIII

Biggie,

Reading your post made me think of some issues that I had in my '83. When you stated a flare up between shifts it made me think. Check out the thread below you may find it useful in the future.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/250248-automatic-transmission-b2-piston-replacement.html

biggiefl

That is great info on the gasket for my car. Unfortunately it does not explain much about the 3spd flare but now I know what to look for when I step up to a newer shark in the future.