3000teeth

As I was driving home tonight, the car started chugging when I put it into second and stepped on the gas. I let off the gas and it stopped, but began again when I stepped on the pedal again.

Since I was on an expressway, I had to drive a bit before I could get off on a side road, so I put it into third and it moved ok, but the chugging continued if I stepped too hard on the pedal. I got progressively worse in the half mile I drove.

I parked it, cut the motor, got out, lifted the hood and smelled something burning. The engine wasn't hot, but there was a strange ticking coming from the right (passenger side) of the engine (in or underneath the intake manifolds) --sounded like expanded metal cooling.

I let it settle, then tried to start it again, but it wouldn't turn over.

Any ideas where I should start? --much appreciation!

-T

G Man

When you say wouldn't turn over, do you mean the engine would not spin when you activate the starter or it would spin, but would not start? The chugging almost sounds like a fuel starvation situation to me. Hopefully it is not something major. I'd like to know what it is when you get it sorted out.

Nicole

Is this a manual or an automatic? Can you trust your thrust bearing?

3000teeth

It's a 5-speed --not sure what I can trust --lotsa work needed

I agree it sounds like a fuel starvation problem. The starter engages, but nothing after that --second time I try the engagement is shorter, like something's stuck.

Bill Ball

We need to know what you mean by "it wouldn't turn over", as Jim asked.

danglerb

As in is the motor frozen, like hydrolocked, or does it spin and not start.

SharkSkin

Travis(?),

The hot metal ticking noise you describe seems like it could only come from one place -- the EGR tube is the only thing that can really carry that kind of heat under there. The EGR may be stuck open. Try removing the vac hose from the EGR valve and see if it runs any better. Do you have an IR thermometer? See if the EGR tube is getting hot after you pull the vac line then let the car idle for a while. It should stay cold. The gas pumped into the intake by the EGR should be metered and if it's just dumping in there it could cause the problem you describe.

Podguy

The problem could be anything - but probably not the dreaded thrust bearing problem since the 79 five speeds did not have thrust bearing problems.

You really need to go step by step. I am guessing from your description that you have a timing belt problem. If the belt is old than it could have spun a tooth and jumped the timing. When you go to start it again the timing is so far out on one bank that it is fighting the other side and thus inhibiting the engine turning over.

If in the morning when the engine is cool it still will not turn over remove the two front plastic timing belt covers and turn the engine by hand to TDC and check the timing marks on the two cam pulleys. (BTW the crank passes TDC twice for each single turn of the cam. If you do not see the timing marks the first time give the engine one more spin.) It is possible to sight through the holes in the top of the two cam pulley covers without taking them off. You being knew to this are probably better off at least pulling the covers back out of the way. The right cover comes off easily, but there are clearance problems with the left one.

If the belt is lined up fine, looks in good condition, is tensioned correctly and there is no belt residue then you will need to look elsewhere. The problem could be something simple as bad ignition components or something deeper and broken. The 79 unlike the 83-84 models is not prone to break cams. The engine is a non interference engine so slipping a belt will not bend the valves. If the engine turns freely by hand then the starter may have an issue. It might be a good idea at that point to remove the plugs and do a compression test. This will tell you if all is ok with the engine and the starter.

If all is good with that stuff move on to the fuel pump and fuel system. The 79 probably has two fuel pumps - one on the back of the tank and a booster in the rear of the right fender. It could have a secondary pump in the tank. I am not sure of the set up on the 79 having never worked on on. But they should be very close to the 78 and that is the set up. If one pump goes south then the engine will run like crap and be very had to start again. The tank screen can fragment from age and take out the first pump. Be careful the second pump is worth gold.

Hope this helps. Have fun and remember you cannot have performance and simplicity in the same package.

Dan the Pod Guy.

killingmoon65

At first, it sounded like a fuel pump problem. Mine acted the same when the main fuel pump(under the fender below the filler cap) went out. It chugged upon heavy throttle but otherwise ran ok. The non-starting or starter engaging is a problem. As is the burn smell. The car should start and run on one pump though if that was the issue.
BTW, that pump can be gotten on eBay for $178. Just look around there. The numbers on it and the specs are the same as a 911 turbo.

3000teeth

Thanks guys. I won't have time today to get in and troubleshoot, so I'll take a look at these things tomorrow. I'll hope that it's not the timing belt, since it had a new one installed shortly before I bought it. Also, I just replaced the fuel pump under the tank. I'll start with the EGR, since the mechanic who first inspected it changed a vacuum hose on it about a month ago.

As for start-up symptoms, sorry to be unclear, the engine tries to turn over on the first turn of the ignition, (sounds like uhh-unnnh), then nothing. If I try to start it again, all I hear is the starter click.

I just went out and tried to start it again this morning --same thing.

Something else to note that may or may not be related: It seemed to be running rich yesterday (which was also the case before I got it smogged) and I could smell it in the exhaust when I parked it yesterday morning. I'll also need to inspect leaks this weekend --fluid levels are ok, but I'm seeing larger drips (oil and PS) under the engine where I park it.

Thanks Dave and Dan for the great insight --if either of you guys happen to be in or around downtown San Jose this weekend, let me know --I'll buy you lunch.

Travis

hupp

I would suspect that you have a fuel delivery issue and that you drained your battery when trying to re-start. The existing oil leaks are more than likely the source of that burning smell.

One of the best investments for CIS car owners is a set of fuel pressure gauges and a vacuum tester(mighty vac.)...and a copy of the WSM. The K-jet seems complicated at first but it can be diagnosed with a few simple tests.

Here is something you can do without the test kit and can flush out a common cause of fuel startvation -- the fuel distributor plunger sticking:

-- remove the air intake hoses and box (top and bottom halves
--Crank/turn the engine and allow the fuel pressure to build - should take a couple of seconds. Typically folks bypass the fuel pump relay safety circuit to do this but your car may not start so this is ok. If it starts, let it warm then turn it off
--Back under the hood - With car off depress the air sensor all the way down and pull back up very quickly. You should feel the plunger tap the air sensor lever almost immediatly after the sensor is pulled back. If not -- its sticking.

If it sticks you can try some techron to resolve.

Mrmerlin

Travis , First remove the timing belt covers and see if the marks are correct you will need to turn the engine to do this try putting the car in 5th gear and rolling it forward open the hood and see if the engine is turning, (maybe the alternator has seized), OR get a breaker bar and with your 27mm deep socket try to turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation. if the car wont move with it in 5th gear and you pushing stop you have more serious problems and trying to force it will only damage something , Let us know what you find, Stan

Lizard928

try charging your battery and see what happens, sounds to me like your charging system could be inop.

Jim bailey - 928 International

The CIS cars the control pressure regulator ( warm up reg) controls the mixture ALL THE TIME. When they fail they can cause exactly what you describe. My wife's 79 decided to fail at a gas station I could barely get it the three blocks to my house as it would not run over an idle ...rebuilt press regulator and all was fine... good chance it is the regulator which acts as the brains of a brainless system adjusting mixture for temp., altitude ,manifold vacume(throttle position).

bd0nalds0n

Realizing that the various failure modes that might destroy an S4 if it continues to be driven don't necessarily apply to a '79, I still have to point out that Mr. Bailey isn't totally immune from the "powerful homing instinct" associated with limping vs. trailering the car home when it isn't behaving right...