Intake removal and install
02-21-2007, 11:58 PM
#61
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Originally Posted by BIMMERMIKE
With fuel relay removed what connection need jumping? Do I need igniton switched to "on" positon?
The fuel return lines will purge the air in system?
The fuel return lines will purge the air in system?
Yes. The air will be returned to the tank.
02-22-2007, 02:22 AM
#62
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Michael,
I suppose the proper way to do this is to use a button in place of the relay and a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. I took apart an old relay and soldered on long leads connected to a momentary button. I use this rig for testing the fuel system as well as when doing a compression test.
This way when you are standing by the engine you can use the button to stop the fuel as soon as you spot a leak. With the guage in place you can see if you are getting the proper pressure and if it bleeds off after you let go of the button. The pressure should hold for some time it all is right with your fuel loop.
I did not see anyone suggest throwing in a valve timing with this job. Then again if I owned an 85 with the old bolts the last thing I would do is to remove the valve covers with the engine in the car.
The fuel system unlike a diesel is self bleeding. When jumpering the relay there is no need to have the key on.
As a note: since the injectors do not come apart I do not see the reason for sending them out for rebuilding. From what I understand they just test them and then try to match them up with injectors that have an even flow rate. Not sure this does much in the end. You can probably accomplish as much by soaking them in Berryman's B12 and just putting on new seals. But then I am cheap. Besides the LH system opens all eight injectors at once. It is not like one weak injector is going to put things off much.
I suppose the proper way to do this is to use a button in place of the relay and a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. I took apart an old relay and soldered on long leads connected to a momentary button. I use this rig for testing the fuel system as well as when doing a compression test.
This way when you are standing by the engine you can use the button to stop the fuel as soon as you spot a leak. With the guage in place you can see if you are getting the proper pressure and if it bleeds off after you let go of the button. The pressure should hold for some time it all is right with your fuel loop.
I did not see anyone suggest throwing in a valve timing with this job. Then again if I owned an 85 with the old bolts the last thing I would do is to remove the valve covers with the engine in the car.
The fuel system unlike a diesel is self bleeding. When jumpering the relay there is no need to have the key on.
As a note: since the injectors do not come apart I do not see the reason for sending them out for rebuilding. From what I understand they just test them and then try to match them up with injectors that have an even flow rate. Not sure this does much in the end. You can probably accomplish as much by soaking them in Berryman's B12 and just putting on new seals. But then I am cheap. Besides the LH system opens all eight injectors at once. It is not like one weak injector is going to put things off much.
02-22-2007, 11:33 AM
#63
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Originally Posted by Podguy
As a note: since the injectors do not come apart I do not see the reason for sending them out for rebuilding. From what I understand they just test them and then try to match them up with injectors that have an even flow rate.
They replace the top and bottom o-ring. They replace the pintle caps. They replace the internal filters. They ultrasonically clean the injectors and flow-test the injectors before they send them back. For <$16 per injector it is a good deal IMO.
This does not apply to CIS (mechanical) injectors.
Besides the LH system opens all eight injectors at once. It is not like one weak injector is going to put things off much.
02-22-2007, 12:03 PM
#64
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Originally Posted by worf928
........One clogged injector can cause you to fail emissions tests. One clogged injector can cause poor part throttle response and rob you of power at WOT.
Mike,
Sounds like you are almost ready for the season. The above metnioned methods are all good to test the fuel lines. As extra safety measure, pull the ignition relay so that if you have a major fuel leak at least the iginiton system is off and it won't ignite the spileld fuel.
02-22-2007, 04:54 PM
#65
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heinrich and others like "lotsa vaseline" and I've used lotsa vaseline myself, BUT
Does anybody have an idea for a more "persistent" lube. Something that won't melt away the first time the engine heats and won't eat the O-rings over time?
It'd be nice if, next time, the injectors would come out as easily as they'll go back in.
Does anybody have an idea for a more "persistent" lube. Something that won't melt away the first time the engine heats and won't eat the O-rings over time?
It'd be nice if, next time, the injectors would come out as easily as they'll go back in.
02-22-2007, 05:33 PM
#67
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So, I gather Heinrich uses a lot of Vaseline.
Didn't know the factory recommended that specifically.
Mark K:
When you get that 6.5, let me know. I'll help with the manifold. I've done mine twice. It's just a bit tricky getting the vac lines on. The WSM diagrams are correct in terms of what goes on which port, but the physical routing is swapped for two of the lines. Anyway, I'd be glad to get my hands dirty helping with the motor install.
Didn't know the factory recommended that specifically. Mark K:
When you get that 6.5, let me know. I'll help with the manifold. I've done mine twice. It's just a bit tricky getting the vac lines on. The WSM diagrams are correct in terms of what goes on which port, but the physical routing is swapped for two of the lines. Anyway, I'd be glad to get my hands dirty helping with the motor install.
02-23-2007, 10:55 AM
#68
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After checking for fuel leaks turned the key and started on first crank !
However, the miss/stumble at idle I was chasing is still present. I disconnected the MAS and no change in idle.
Do I need a MAS???
Pictures coming later.
Thanks to Rennlist, I was able to accomplish R&R Intake, I own everyone a big THANKS.
However, the miss/stumble at idle I was chasing is still present. I disconnected the MAS and no change in idle.
Do I need a MAS???
Pictures coming later.
Thanks to Rennlist, I was able to accomplish R&R Intake, I own everyone a big THANKS.
02-23-2007, 11:19 AM
#69
Mike, after mine was all complete, it fired right up as well. I had a slight minor miss prior to my R&R, sometimes at idle, mainly when you first slowly start to drive away after start up..... its still there too.
02-23-2007, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MGW-Fla
Mike, after mine was all complete, it fired right up as well. I had a slight minor miss prior to my R&R, sometimes at idle, mainly when you first slowly start to drive away after start up..... its still there too.
02-23-2007, 11:35 AM
#71
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Originally Posted by BIMMERMIKE
the miss/stumble at idle I was chasing is still present. I disconnected the MAS and no change in idle.
02-23-2007, 04:34 PM
#72
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Originally Posted by worf928
Condition of plugs, wires, distributors, rotors, coil wires, coil grounds?
02-23-2007, 05:12 PM
#73
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Originally Posted by BIMMERMIKE
What about coils, can they be at fault?
Slight stumble you say? All-new spark components except coils. Clean fuel injectors. New breather hoses. No vacuum leaks.
Check those grounds. EDIT: Make sure the plug wires are all fully pushed down and seated. After that....
How long has she been on the operating table? More than 3 or 4 weeks? I'm going to assume that you didn't put fuel stabilizer in so ... me thinks you need
... an Eyetalian Tune-up. Feed her some good gas and drive.
02-23-2007, 05:27 PM
#74
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......an Eyetalian Tune-up
How did you know my background? Actually this is a longtime situation(stumble/miss at idle) nevertheless fuel stabilizer was added.
I will attack grounds and re-seat plugs.
Thanks
btw: IMOoooo has offered to swap MAS. Will post results Monday.
How did you know my background? Actually this is a longtime situation(stumble/miss at idle) nevertheless fuel stabilizer was added.
I will attack grounds and re-seat plugs.
Thanks
btw: IMOoooo has offered to swap MAS. Will post results Monday.
02-23-2007, 05:42 PM
#75
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Mike,
Just make a list of the parts that you want to swap and I'll lend you whatever I have left on the parts car. This way you don't have to buy parts that you don't really need. The parts car's engine is still pretty much intact and all the iginition components are still there. Take what you need for testing.
Slight miss is usually ignition/spark related. Usually!
Just make a list of the parts that you want to swap and I'll lend you whatever I have left on the parts car. This way you don't have to buy parts that you don't really need. The parts car's engine is still pretty much intact and all the iginition components are still there. Take what you need for testing.
Slight miss is usually ignition/spark related. Usually!