Intake removal and install
#16
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I checked the price of the 24 lb. Summit Ford racing injectors, they are currently $299. Probably fairly cost effective, but for me saving $100+ is needed to go towards the rest of needed items.
#17
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I located a Ford Injector at my local Autozone for around $50 each. It is a 19lb/hr if I recall. The o-rings that come with the injector looked a little smaller than the new o-rings that I ordered during my intake R&R. Sorry, I can't remember the exact part number. But I pulled it right off Rennlist. Search for "Injectors" and you should run accross it. I have heard that you can get the Ford Injectors much cheaper from the internet through e-bay for example if you can wait.
#18
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bimmer:
The injector service shop should replace the printle caps and o-rings as part of the service. Nice if they do, as the kits are $6-8 from Porsche. Witchhunter (.com) does this and the total charge is only $15 per, IIRC. He also replaces the internal filter in each injector.
Like others here, I clip the injectors to the rail and lube the o-ring and insert them that way. Just check that all are lined up with the holes in the manifold and that the o-ring seals do not get pinched (lubing helps a lot to prevent that). Also, I leave the injector clipped on when I am removing the rails. Usually all or 3/4 come out with the rail. If not, a spark plug puller may help remove a stuck injector.
Be very careful to obseve the condition of the wire clips on the connectors. They are very poorly secured by a dab of melted plastic that often chips off, and away they go! I had two fall off recently and it took me quite a while to find them and make sure they had not gone into the cylinders. Finally, be careful handling the wire harness. The wires under the connector sleeves are usually quite brittle from age/heat and you can get a hidden short pretty easily resulting in a no-start (a single short will keep all the injectors from firing).
Stock injectors are 19 lb (are there some years that are 24?? - Imo00 corrected me that 85-86 are 24). Cleaning is a lot cheaper even than the Fords. Summit used to sell a set of Fords for just over $200, but I believe they are a lot more now.
The injector service shop should replace the printle caps and o-rings as part of the service. Nice if they do, as the kits are $6-8 from Porsche. Witchhunter (.com) does this and the total charge is only $15 per, IIRC. He also replaces the internal filter in each injector.
Like others here, I clip the injectors to the rail and lube the o-ring and insert them that way. Just check that all are lined up with the holes in the manifold and that the o-ring seals do not get pinched (lubing helps a lot to prevent that). Also, I leave the injector clipped on when I am removing the rails. Usually all or 3/4 come out with the rail. If not, a spark plug puller may help remove a stuck injector.
Be very careful to obseve the condition of the wire clips on the connectors. They are very poorly secured by a dab of melted plastic that often chips off, and away they go! I had two fall off recently and it took me quite a while to find them and make sure they had not gone into the cylinders. Finally, be careful handling the wire harness. The wires under the connector sleeves are usually quite brittle from age/heat and you can get a hidden short pretty easily resulting in a no-start (a single short will keep all the injectors from firing).
Stock injectors are 19 lb (are there some years that are 24?? - Imo00 corrected me that 85-86 are 24). Cleaning is a lot cheaper even than the Fords. Summit used to sell a set of Fords for just over $200, but I believe they are a lot more now.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 01-24-2007 at 02:55 PM.
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
be careful handling the wire harness. The wires under the connector sleeves are usually quite brittle from age/heat and you can get a hidden short pretty easily resulting in a no-start (a single short will keep all the injectors from firing).
Can wire connnectors be checked prior to assembly?
Can wire connnectors be checked prior to assembly?
#20
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well, I believe with the key on, both sides of the plug see 12V. So, you can check for 12 volts on all the plugs, but I'm not sure how to detemine if the leads might be shorted since both are 12V. When the car is running, the injectors are fired by taking one side to ground. With a short, that won't happen, and none of the injectors fire since they share a single ground (batch fire). There probably is a way to test the leads, but I'm not sure. I've only confronted this when a car wouldn't start and testing with a "noid light" (a test light that plugs into the injector harness) showed nothing happening while trying to start the car. Or you can just listen for the injector clicks with a mechanics stethoscope rod. Then it was just a matter of opening up the plug sleeves (which are glued on BTW) until the twisted, shorted wires were located.
I didn't mean to alarm you other than to warn you to handle with care. The wires on my 175K miles 89 are still fine, but I'm careful not to manipulate them too much. Unless you have starting problem when you get done, I would not worry about this.
I didn't mean to alarm you other than to warn you to handle with care. The wires on my 175K miles 89 are still fine, but I'm careful not to manipulate them too much. Unless you have starting problem when you get done, I would not worry about this.
#21
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Gone. On the Open Road
Posts: 16,433
Received 1,606 Likes
on
1,049 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
On the subject of 85 - 86.5 intake removal and refresh: 928 Specialists is showing the rear over-cam-cover breather hose as discontinued. (This is the hose that connects the rear of the passenger's side cam cover to the bottom of the throttle body assembly.)
Has anyone discovered an alternative?
Has anyone discovered an alternative?
#22
Race Car
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My 86 is ready to be done very soon, I noticed you said some parts are discontinued and the wiring of the Inj my be brittle. That said what should I order; I mean everything when I do this, I keep finding I need this and that while I am working on it now. It really slows things down and a heads up would be great. Any pictures or diagrams to go by? The connector that goes to the diagnostic port crumbled while moving it, I can only assume I have many other things to look to break also.
Mark
Mark
#23
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Some of these hoses don't need to be the molded Porsche hose. I'm not sure about this specific one, but I replaced the front passenger valve cover to oil filler base breather hose on my 89 with a common hose and it fit just fine with no kinks, while I was waiting for the "correct" hose on-order. I haven't felt compelled to change it. However, the hose you mention may have bends in it that would kink, although the bends might be simulated with an elbow inserted between hose sections.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 01-23-2007 at 09:53 PM.
#24
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Tampa 928s
My 86 is ready to be done very soon, I noticed you said some parts are discontinued and the wiring of the Inj my be brittle. That said what should I order; I mean everything when I do this, I keep finding I need this and that while I am working on it now. It really slows things down and a heads up would be great. Any pictures or diagrams to go by? The connector that goes to the diagnostic port crumbled while moving it, I can only assume I have many other things to look to break also.
Mark
Mark
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FUEL-...spagenameZWD1V
Then all you need, besides some shrink wrap, are the boots. Eagleday.com sells them for $3.95, which seems high to me. His prices for the AMP connector are equally too high. Don't have another source.
http://www.eagleday.com/ampconnectors.html
I think some alternative sources for the boots might have been covered in another thread recently.
#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by Giovanni
Once you are done, do yourself a favor: bypass the fuel pump relay and look for fuel leaks BEFORE you attempt to start the car. Do not ask why! It still hurts to think about it :-(.
why?
#26
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Lets say someone may start the car, listen to a funny noise, in a split second remembers that he forgot to attach the main fuel hose on the fuel rail, reaches to turn the car, suddenly, VOOOOMMMM, the whole engine compartment is on fire. This guy is running and screaming outside, eight month pregnant wife runs to the kitchen, get a fire extinguisher and puts the fire off. After the fire is off, wife asks guy why he did not use the fire ext that is in the back seat. Guy feels stupid.
#27
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I recently did the saem project on my '85. I would replace the intake gaskets, in my case that was not an optional event as the old were not in good shape. The hose from the back passenger side to the throttle body was a problem for me as well. I ordered a hose from one of hte big three but it must have been for a newer model as it was not long enough. I spliced on a piece of straight hose with an in-line plastic connector but I had to modify the steel shield that is attached to the fuel rail to provide clearance for the hose to snake its way between the two connection points. I can check the part number of the hose on the weekend if you need it.
As others have said I installed the injectors into the rail and then installed all of them into the intake.
I had my injectors cleaned and flow tested by Cruisin Performance (http://www.cruzinperformance.com). I was very happy with the information that they provided and the work seemed excellent.
While you are there I would replace all of the vacuum lines and the rubber fuel lines. The U shape hose for the '85/'86 is NLA and I still need to get mine rebuilt but I did replace the others.
My throttle posiotn switch connector (three wire by the dingostic port) crumbled when I tried to take it appart. I did some searching (but not a lot) and in the end eleminated the connector by soldering the wires individually and insulated with heat shrink (after I verified that I had the connections correct). This in line connection makes it easier to check the throttle position switch with the intake system in place but other than that is only another connection to give you grief over time.
If you have any questions as you go just ask.
As others have said I installed the injectors into the rail and then installed all of them into the intake.
I had my injectors cleaned and flow tested by Cruisin Performance (http://www.cruzinperformance.com). I was very happy with the information that they provided and the work seemed excellent.
While you are there I would replace all of the vacuum lines and the rubber fuel lines. The U shape hose for the '85/'86 is NLA and I still need to get mine rebuilt but I did replace the others.
My throttle posiotn switch connector (three wire by the dingostic port) crumbled when I tried to take it appart. I did some searching (but not a lot) and in the end eleminated the connector by soldering the wires individually and insulated with heat shrink (after I verified that I had the connections correct). This in line connection makes it easier to check the throttle position switch with the intake system in place but other than that is only another connection to give you grief over time.
If you have any questions as you go just ask.
#28
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Lets say someone may start the car, listen to a funny noise, in a split second remembers that he forgot to attach the main fuel hose on the fuel rail, reaches to turn the car, suddenly, VOOOOMMMM, the whole engine compartment is on fire. This guy is running and screaming outside, eight month pregnant wife runs to the kitchen, get a fire extinguisher and puts the fire off. After the fire is off, wife asks guy why he did not use the fire ext that is in the back seat. Guy feels stupid.
#30
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Mike the replacement Ford injectors are 24lb just like your originals. They are an exact fit, even the O rings are the same. This is only true for the '85-'86 32V engines. The S4-up had 19lb injectors and The O rings were different thatn the Ford unit. Therefore they have to replace their O rings when fitting Ford injectors and we don't. If the price diference between cleaning them and buying a new set in only $100, then I don't think its worth cleaning. Even after the cleaning you'll end up with a clen but still fairly used set of injectors.
Painting the maniford is cleaper but they are not as durable as powder coating. Mine is painted and it scratches easily.
I hope this helps!
Painting the maniford is cleaper but they are not as durable as powder coating. Mine is painted and it scratches easily.
I hope this helps!