32V'r sneak peak
01-30-2007, 07:38 PM
#46
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Yay! The laser guy is back from back surgery, and is working on the quotes, and getting my prototype made today.
I should have the prototype by the end of the week for verification, and a photo session for the manual. ($%&^# manuals.
)
I should have the prototype by the end of the week for verification, and a photo session for the manual. ($%&^# manuals.
)
01-30-2007, 08:13 PM
#48
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Ryan,
Thanks! It takes less than a day to cut and bend them, so if I can get the order in on the 5th, I should have some or all of the kits together by the 9th.
Thanks! It takes less than a day to cut and bend them, so if I can get the order in on the 5th, I should have some or all of the kits together by the 9th.
01-30-2007, 08:33 PM
#49
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Sorry to be a bother Ken, but I should have them before i get to timing my new engine. But my question is that in the Manual on 32V cars it basically says to align the arrows on the cams to the painted links on the chains. I believe that marks 0/T. I know its stupid asking this now but does the alignment tool i just paid for negate the need to use the cam blocks and the alignment tool the factory suggests, the ones with the cut outs for the lobes. I know with this i can also retard or advance timing. When the time comes can you post suggestions on optimal timing for power for the stock GT. Ive heard a slight adjust ment is good for something like 15-30hp. I assume your tool makes it easy to make those adjustments.
Stupid I am asking now after I bought it, but I figured i would put my money where my mouth is.
I am sure I'll be picking your brain a few times before this is all over.
Anyway, thanks again.
Stupid I am asking now after I bought it, but I figured i would put my money where my mouth is.
I am sure I'll be picking your brain a few times before this is all over.
Anyway, thanks again.
01-30-2007, 08:57 PM
#50
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If you are reinstalling the cams into the heads, you should have the blocks, in order to safely bolt the bearings onto the cams. IIRC, Big Dave rented the tools from Specialists.
With the size of the job you are doing, and since you the cam covers off, it would be a good idea to use the factory dial-indicator method to setup the cams once you have the belt on. (A used belt is preferable for doing the timing, BTW.)
Once everything is dialed in, you can use my tool to take an accurate baseline, and make adjustments from there, after the new belt is 'seasoned'.
The 'optimum timing' will depend on where you would like to have your powerband.
With the size of the job you are doing, and since you the cam covers off, it would be a good idea to use the factory dial-indicator method to setup the cams once you have the belt on. (A used belt is preferable for doing the timing, BTW.)
Once everything is dialed in, you can use my tool to take an accurate baseline, and make adjustments from there, after the new belt is 'seasoned'.
The 'optimum timing' will depend on where you would like to have your powerband.
01-31-2007, 03:06 PM
#52
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Originally Posted by PorKen
If you're looking to sell your old version of the tool, I can keep a list, and send it to whoever queries for one. I'll put a blurb on the site about buying a used version. So, send me your email address if you want to sell yours, and an asking price, and I'll pass it along.
Also, I'm going to make available an alignment checking bar for the old one.
Also, I'm going to make available an alignment checking bar for the old one.
Harvey
01-31-2007, 03:16 PM
#53
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Thanks Glen! I updated the (website) with more about the version 1.0 tools.
Harv - if you notice the two holes in the ring of the old tool, those are for checking the alignment, but I never put a procedure in the manual.
I'm off to the laser shop, now. Seems I made the tolerance too tight between the ring and the pointer. Doh! But at least I get to see the new one!
Harv - if you notice the two holes in the ring of the old tool, those are for checking the alignment, but I never put a procedure in the manual.
I'm off to the laser shop, now. Seems I made the tolerance too tight between the ring and the pointer. Doh! But at least I get to see the new one!
02-03-2007, 03:46 PM
#54
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I love prototyping. Not so much. 
The shop is very busy at the moment. I was just able to get the prototype before they closed on Fri. As they are too busy right now, and I have to make some changes, I'm moving the cutoff to 2/12.
I am going to test fit it on my '86 today, but already I have to:
-Make the arm wider (too bendy at the holes).
-The half-moon locators are stylish and do work, but I'm switching to one, maybe two, square locators (like a cam key).
-Put back the bend holes from the first version (forces bending in the correct locations).
The shop is very busy at the moment. I was just able to get the prototype before they closed on Fri. As they are too busy right now, and I have to make some changes, I'm moving the cutoff to 2/12.
I am going to test fit it on my '86 today, but already I have to:
-Make the arm wider (too bendy at the holes).
-The half-moon locators are stylish and do work, but I'm switching to one, maybe two, square locators (like a cam key).
-Put back the bend holes from the first version (forces bending in the correct locations).
02-05-2007, 08:55 PM
#57
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Oooohhh...aaaahhh...
02-13-2007, 11:25 PM
#59
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Very cool, if I say so myself! 
The one degree holes do make it easier to set up. Measuring at 45° and 180° shows the same reading as at 0°.
I advanced my valve timing (engine cold) to R:7° | L:8°, which gives me big torque, pretty much from idle.
It's good to go, so I will be putting in the order on Mon, 2/19.
The one degree holes do make it easier to set up. Measuring at 45° and 180° shows the same reading as at 0°.
I advanced my valve timing (engine cold) to R:7° | L:8°, which gives me big torque, pretty much from idle.
It's good to go, so I will be putting in the order on Mon, 2/19.
02-13-2007, 11:41 PM
#60
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WOW. In all my many many weeks of owning a 928 I have to say, I can't count the hundreds of times as I was pulling those freakin valve covers off my car, thinking "If only there were an easier way" ... well HERE IT IS 
Porkin'!!! NICE WORK .... Anyway I have a thought.
Why stop at 360 degrees? I mean, what if I have a MONDO supercharger, and I want 361 degrees of retardation???? I'd like to advance my timing 361 degrees in the interim before I get my quadruple Cummins Diesel Turbos that Greg Browne will be installing for me. i bought them from Marc Andersen ... I gotta say, that Jim Baylie is such a hoot, an MAN does that guy drool chocolate milkshake from his nose like a pro!!!!! Hey Jimbo Buddy, how's da dawgs!!
Porkin'!!! NICE WORK .... Anyway I have a thought.Why stop at 360 degrees? I mean, what if I have a MONDO supercharger, and I want 361 degrees of retardation???? I'd like to advance my timing 361 degrees in the interim before I get my quadruple Cummins Diesel Turbos that Greg Browne will be installing for me. i bought them from Marc Andersen ... I gotta say, that Jim Baylie is such a hoot, an MAN does that guy drool chocolate milkshake from his nose like a pro!!!!! Hey Jimbo Buddy, how's da dawgs!!