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Serious Timing belt issue

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Old 01-16-2007 | 10:32 PM
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Live and learn, I should have done this by myself when you add help its adds 50% error to the equation!
Old 01-16-2007 | 10:38 PM
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The help often saves me from making mistakes!

Dave said, "Where does this bolt go?" after we finished putting the torque tube back on....it went on the top rear of the tube.

Last edited by Bill Ball; 01-18-2007 at 04:19 AM.
Old 01-17-2007 | 09:09 AM
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Default Morning update

I got the 0 Degree's to align correctly this morning the ? I have is this.
Drivers side v marker is dead on for cam and crank, the pass side is 1/16 off if I move the belt one way or another it will be off one tooth. Is this acceptable or am I worried about nothing.
Old 01-17-2007 | 09:10 AM
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Mark,
You are good to go.
Roger
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Old 01-17-2007 | 10:29 AM
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Yup it as good as it can get. The engine should run fine!
Old 01-17-2007 | 10:31 AM
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Tampa,

Have cross your fingers, offer up a prayer to Andrew's shrine and turn the key dude!
Old 01-17-2007 | 11:34 AM
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Looks like I'm on tooth off with the crank at o the marks are a hair off if I move crank to just under the 0 o not the center line its dead on. Any magic on how to do this I'm afraid to adj it at the 0 mark; at 0 if The cam being on the apex it wants to snap down I need 4 hands!!
Old 01-17-2007 | 11:52 AM
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Mark,
You should be fine at 0TDC to move it one tooth. It does help if you have 4 hands though.
If you want to be extra carefull take it around to 45 BTDC and adjust it then.
Roger
Old 01-17-2007 | 04:12 PM
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Yeah, this is a four hands type job, get some help. My suggestion is, forget the 45deg mark. line up the crank at exactly 0, and get the pullies to sit as close to the notch in back as possible. Sometimes due to age, belt mfg, and pully wear, the notch isn't prefectly on the backing plate mark. Live with it.

Hopefully you got the pullies back on in the same place at they were removed. Even with the best guestimate method, you're going to be off a degree or two. The proper way is to pull the cam covers and set the lifter lash as specified on the WSM. Lotsa more work, but very accurate.

Doc
Old 01-17-2007 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by docmirror
........ The proper way is to pull the cam covers and set the lifter lash as specified on the WSM. Lotsa more work, but very accurate.

Doc

That will not impove on the timing mark missaligment. It will index the cams but it will not change the way the timing marks align with the markings.

I had the t-belt jump 3 teeth on the driver side and 4 on the passanger and the vavles stayed intact! I think this is the absolute maximum that the belt can jump without touching the valves. One tooth either way will still keep the valves away from the pistons.
Old 01-17-2007 | 08:42 PM
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[QUOTE=Imo000]That will not impove on the timing mark missaligment. It will index the cams but it will not change the way the timing marks align with the markings.

QUOTE]

I never said it would. Once someone goes to that extreme to set the timing on the cams, lock the cams in place, then set the pully location to match the belt teeth, and marks are not needed. who cares what the timing marks say once you've done the lash on the lifter setting.

Doc
Old 01-17-2007 | 08:47 PM
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[QUOTE=docmirror]
Originally Posted by Imo000
That will not impove on the timing mark missaligment. It will index the cams but it will not change the way the timing marks align with the markings.

QUOTE]

I never said it would. Once someone goes to that extreme to set the timing on the cams, lock the cams in place, then set the pully location to match the belt teeth, and marks are not needed. who cares what the timing marks say once you've done the lash on the lifter setting.

Doc
Agreed.



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