Lower Hatch Receiver - Problems for all!
01-11-2007, 05:48 PM
#31
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Unless the receiver is truly fragged, there's no need to replace it.
See these tips, in particular the one by Bertrand - worked well for me:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...light=linoleum
See these tips, in particular the one by Bertrand - worked well for me:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...light=linoleum
01-11-2007, 05:54 PM
#32
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I've experienced the problem with dealer-ordered Porsche parts not fitting/working. I suspect the people who are responsible for part# successions don't have the resources to verify what's going into the inventory system. Somebody takes a quick look and says yes, this ball joint pinch bolt looks like it can be used on these earlier models, and it goes into the catalog as a succession number. Your or I buy it, get annoyed when it doesn't fit, and throw it in a drawer while we go look elsewhere for a solution. Porsche and the dealer only hurt if you bring it back to return.
Unfortunately, this is probably an indication of how they value us owners of older models.
Unfortunately, this is probably an indication of how they value us owners of older models.
02-27-2007, 12:44 PM
#34
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Rear Hatch Receiver Fix
Finally found time to post the fix.
Took me a lot of time and experiment to find the problem.
There is a tapped hole in the bottom of the receiver which is for the switch that screws in.
When they tapped the hole it left a burr on the inside bore.
It is the burr that is causing the problem.
To find this I dismantled the complete hatch. It may be possible to remove the burr by simply inserting a 5/16" drill from the bottom end with the white plunger held in the upper position.
Pretty easy to dismantle the assembly anyway. Just compress the white plunger with a C clamp and remove the two cotter pins.
I will try the simpler fix on the next one I replace.
Roger
Took me a lot of time and experiment to find the problem.
There is a tapped hole in the bottom of the receiver which is for the switch that screws in.
When they tapped the hole it left a burr on the inside bore.
It is the burr that is causing the problem.
To find this I dismantled the complete hatch. It may be possible to remove the burr by simply inserting a 5/16" drill from the bottom end with the white plunger held in the upper position.
Pretty easy to dismantle the assembly anyway. Just compress the white plunger with a C clamp and remove the two cotter pins.
I will try the simpler fix on the next one I replace.
Roger
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
02-27-2007, 06:49 PM
#36
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The deformed outer casing was a "red herring".
Once I got into it I realised that there was clearance around the white plunger and the casing.
I then thought it was the OD of the center pin in the housing. Once I had filed that down in size and found that it was still sticking I went for the inside diameter of the pin.
Measured the od of the hole and inserted the drill and caboom it worked.
Once I got into it I realised that there was clearance around the white plunger and the casing.
I then thought it was the OD of the center pin in the housing. Once I had filed that down in size and found that it was still sticking I went for the inside diameter of the pin.
Measured the od of the hole and inserted the drill and caboom it worked.
02-28-2007, 12:05 AM
#38
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Semd Porsche a bill for three hours of diagnostics on flawed workmanship, and 1 hour of resolution. Send them a write up with photos and maybe they'll send you a check. 
Nice job. I have to get mine fixed some day.
Doc
Nice job. I have to get mine fixed some day.
Doc
02-28-2007, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ROG100
The deformed outer casing was a "red herring".
Once I got into it I realised that there was clearance around the white plunger and the casing.
I then thought it was the OD of the center pin in the housing. Once I had filed that down in size and found that it was still sticking I went for the inside diameter of the pin.
Measured the od of the hole and inserted the drill and caboom it worked.
Once I got into it I realised that there was clearance around the white plunger and the casing.
I then thought it was the OD of the center pin in the housing. Once I had filed that down in size and found that it was still sticking I went for the inside diameter of the pin.
Measured the od of the hole and inserted the drill and caboom it worked.
Good work. Someday I may understand how the latch really works. This helped quite a bit. My latch works, but recently it developed a rattle that required me to length the rubber bumper adjustment. I gather this may be wear to the plastic catch that is replaceable. Is that listed in the PET.
02-28-2007, 12:21 AM
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Roger: I looked at the PET and was thinking this is what is worn in my case. Nicole has her rear deck pushed up even higher by the bumpers to stop the rattle. We both puzzled over the thing.
02-28-2007, 12:27 AM
#42
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Bill,
Those parts on the upper unit are available. Item 29, 30 & 31.
I have them in stock if you want to try them.
Roger
Those parts on the upper unit are available. Item 29, 30 & 31.
I have them in stock if you want to try them.
Roger
02-28-2007, 12:38 AM
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Yeah, I would. Here is another page with a different PN for part 19, I'm guessing for systems w/o alarm, but I would need the one shown previously. I will send you an email. THANKS! Nicole has a fracture in the upper housing, so she would probably need the entire assembly.
Last edited by Bill Ball; 12-29-2008 at 01:43 PM.
02-28-2007, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by chaadster
Okay, I've determined that the hatch release mechanism is the most complicated system on the 928.
Good Lord. I've read dozens of writeups on "the fix," everything involving adjusting, shimming, trimming, replacing and greasing.
The hatch release deserves its own volume in the repair manuals; its own chapter in Project 928; there has got to be a story behind this mysterious and complex (verily, incomprehensible) device!
Good Lord. I've read dozens of writeups on "the fix," everything involving adjusting, shimming, trimming, replacing and greasing.
The hatch release deserves its own volume in the repair manuals; its own chapter in Project 928; there has got to be a story behind this mysterious and complex (verily, incomprehensible) device!
Thank You!!! The aforementioned "repairs" are Bull****! I swear I have @ least 4 hours labor & $100 in parts ,and it still doesn't function correctly. The motor arm just cycles through without releasing the hatch. I've pretty much thrown in the towel on this one . I'd rather take on the MM, TB& WP, & Intake Rebuild again, than to f**k around with that anymore
02-28-2007, 01:46 PM
#45
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Find someone who will pull the switch while you watch the cam movement from the rear area. Look to see if upper "Latch" is close enough to the cam in the lower latch assembly to get disengaged.
Keep in mind you have two main parts that need to function correctly so the hatch opens!
The cam that is operated via lever by the motor in the lower latch mechanism and the plastic wedge mounted in the upper latch mechanism.
I have had mine too close and that won’t work either!
Keep in mind you have two main parts that need to function correctly so the hatch opens!
The cam that is operated via lever by the motor in the lower latch mechanism and the plastic wedge mounted in the upper latch mechanism.
I have had mine too close and that won’t work either!