JKelly

T-Belt Trivia anyone .

Q.1. When I did my timing belt (on 5-spd), I set the e-brake and left the car in neutral. Does it make any difference if it was in neutral or in gear (I used the flywheel lock tool)? With an auto, do you put it in neutral or in park?

Q.2. There is one bolt in the t-belt tensioner that must go into some kind of oil jacket or pocket or reservoir; some oil runs out when it is removed. What is it actually? What is behind there?



Q. 3. How many bolts are used to hold the pre-87 undertray on?

Q. 4. Does the Wiring Harness on an 85/86 normally run in front of the t-belt covers above the viscous fan mounting bracket or underneath it? Mine was running behind the t-belt covers.

Q. 5. What is this wire called (function)?



Q. 6. Is the hole in the water pump boss, where the small roller is pressed onto (85/86), purposely sealed on the rebuilt pumps or is it new paint that has covered the hole? Does it matter?

Thanks everyone!

leperboy

Neutral is best and the reason is because once you have the slave cylinder out, you cannot depress the clutch, so later when you remove the flywheel lock to turn the engine, it will require less effort. If it is in gear, you are actually turning the wheels when you crank the engine. Of course, you can take the car out of gear without using the clutch, but if you have the lock, just put it in neutral. Also, make sure you fit the lock pushed laterally as far as you can when bolting it. Unless I did that, it did not engage the flywheel and I could turn the engine.

I don't think there is any oil behind there. I think maybe the old tensioner gasket was bad and some oil traveled up into that bolt hole. I could be wrong, though.

About six. If you lose them, they are easy to replace at the hardware store.

The beauty of 85/86 is we don't worry about the wiring harness. That is for 87 and later. I didn't mess with mine at all. If you're going by Pirtle's guide, you get to skip a bunch of steps since you don't mess with the harness.

I think it runs down to the alternator and to a post mounted inside the driver side fender. There is a cover over a junction for it inside the fender. Open the cover, unscrew the philips-head screw, free up the end that runs into the block, screw the philips head back into the junction and remember to reconnect it after putting the cover back on.

??? There should be a hole in the front that the idler bolt goes through. If you don't have it square in the center of the boss, tap with a small screw driver and see if paint gives way. It should not be closed.

That's alls I know after one TB job on an 86.5, so other better experts may chime in.

Matt

marton

I do not have the flywheel lock tool. When it came time to undo the crank bolt I had it in 5th gear and my wife had her foot on the brake. Otherwise in neutral.

Marton

dr bob

That red wire goes to the terminal at the LF fender, inder the ABS valve on my S4. I think it powers the ABS pump, but that's a guess.

gbarron

John,

RE: Q.2. There is one bolt in the t-belt tensioner that must go into some kind of oil jacket or pocket or reservoir; some oil runs out when it is removed. What is it actually? What is behind there?

Yes that bolt hole does seal a passage...in the WSM it advises you to coat the threads with a sealant when re-installing it. If I remember correctly there is a coolant passage behind it.

Glenn

Mike Frye

Glenn,

I think you're referring to the bolt that holds the tensioner arm on. This one goes into the cooling passage and if you try to remove your tensioner arm to, say, switch the bolt on the lower roller around so it doesn't rub against the dampener for example, without draining the system again you'll have it pissing on your feet until you plug it with another bolt.

It can be done without losing too much coolant, but it's not recommended.

gbarron

Mike,

I looked it up in the WSM (section 15-10 & 11) and it shows the bolt for this hole (14a) to be installed with Loctite 574 which Loctite lists as a "form-in-place gasket".

Am I looking at the right part here? Anyone else remember this when they did their TB/WP?

Glenn

Vilhuer

It goes into water area. Its so close that there isn't always hole, least not full round one.

JKelly

Thanks for the replies everyone .

I guess on question #2, when I took the tensioner bolt out, some tensioner oil must have back-flowed into the hole (?), then maybe a dribble of mixed coolant and oil ran out. I saw oil running out, but if it is a coolant jacket or passage, then a little bit of coolant may have ran out too and I just didn't notice it (the block was drained).

On question #4, I guess it is normal for the wiring harness to pass behind the timing belt cover on the 86- instead of coming out in front of it like the 87+.

On question #6, the tensioner arm shaft bolt hole was sealed on the back side, in the coolant passage, and it looked like paint had probably gotten in there and sealed it off. I'm sure it's no big deal.....probably better that way.

Thanks again!

Bill Ball

Yes on #4 - sure makes the job more convenient.

JKelly

Any idea why it wasn't put back there on the s4+? for appearance maybe?