Anybody got a write-up on a PS rack rebuild?
#1
Thread Starter
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 8,795
Likes: 6
From: Jersey Shore, USA
Anybody got a write-up on a PS rack rebuild?
I just found that Carl at 928 Motorsports has a steering rack rebuild kit, but I didn't find a write-up on how to do it.
Searches here didn't turn up much I could use. I think there were two or three that said they'd done it, but no pix or descriptions.
I found something on 928 Intls. site, but it doesn't have any pics and it basically says to replace all the o-rings and seals you find with new ones.
If anyone has done it or there's a write-up, I'd appreciate if you could point me in the right direction. The shark fund could sure use that extra few hundred if I don't have to pay for a rebuilt rack.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Searches here didn't turn up much I could use. I think there were two or three that said they'd done it, but no pix or descriptions.
I found something on 928 Intls. site, but it doesn't have any pics and it basically says to replace all the o-rings and seals you find with new ones.
If anyone has done it or there's a write-up, I'd appreciate if you could point me in the right direction. The shark fund could sure use that extra few hundred if I don't have to pay for a rebuilt rack.
Thanks in advance for any help.
#2
Mike, check to see if the sliding portion of the rack has excessive play in the housing, pushing up/down or fore/aft with steering wheel at various positions. If you find more than 1/2mm of play, then there is internal wear that you won't be able to address with a re-seal kit.
#3
Thread Starter
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 8,795
Likes: 6
From: Jersey Shore, USA
Thanks Dave,
Did you say .5 mm? Does that basically mean ANY play. I'm not so good with metric estimation but anything less than 1 mm seems like no play at all, right?
Is this something I can check with everything still connected or do I have to disco the tie rods to check this?
I've got some leakage from both boots (which are torn, naturally) and I've got new a set of tie rods because I think they're both beat and I just want to replace them, but if I can rebuild the rack itself I'd rather do that.
Did you say .5 mm? Does that basically mean ANY play. I'm not so good with metric estimation but anything less than 1 mm seems like no play at all, right?
Originally Posted by sharkskin
check to see if the sliding portion of the rack has excessive play in the housing, pushing up/down or fore/aft with steering wheel at various positions.
I've got some leakage from both boots (which are torn, naturally) and I've got new a set of tie rods because I think they're both beat and I just want to replace them, but if I can rebuild the rack itself I'd rather do that.
#4
Ideally you'd check the play with the car on ramps -- having the suspension hanging might take up any play. I say 0.5mm because both of my rebuilt racks had about that much play(or less) in them, the old one had something like 2mm of up/down play on the passenger side. Just pull the boot back and try to wiggle the shaft up/down/fore/aft.
Also, give this thread a look.
Also, give this thread a look.
#6
Check out www.rennbay.com I think they have a good writeup
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#7
Thread Starter
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 8,795
Likes: 6
From: Jersey Shore, USA
Rog,
That write-up is awesome.
Dave,
I'm going to have a look at it and if there's no noticable play in it from front to back or up and down I think I'll go for it. With the new tie rods, boots, and a rebuild of the pump and rack I think I'll be in good shape. I hope in the process I can get it to stop leaking as well.
That write-up is awesome.
Dave,
I'm going to have a look at it and if there's no noticable play in it from front to back or up and down I think I'll go for it. With the new tie rods, boots, and a rebuild of the pump and rack I think I'll be in good shape. I hope in the process I can get it to stop leaking as well.
Trending Topics
#8
Mike,
I bought my PS Pump reseal kit from Rennbay and it took all of about 20 mins to do.
I have not ventured on to the rack yet so I am interested in how you get on.
Roger
I bought my PS Pump reseal kit from Rennbay and it took all of about 20 mins to do.
I have not ventured on to the rack yet so I am interested in how you get on.
Roger
#9
Thread Starter
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 8,795
Likes: 6
From: Jersey Shore, USA
Rog,
Thanks for the tip. The PS lines appear to be OK, so I'm hoping that rebuilding both ends will take care of the leaks, there's no sloppiness in the steering that I can tell while driving, so hopefully a rebuild is all it needs.
If I hadn't found that write-up, I was going to try to do my own with pics, maybe I still will, but either way I'll definitely post my results.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the tip. The PS lines appear to be OK, so I'm hoping that rebuilding both ends will take care of the leaks, there's no sloppiness in the steering that I can tell while driving, so hopefully a rebuild is all it needs.
If I hadn't found that write-up, I was going to try to do my own with pics, maybe I still will, but either way I'll definitely post my results.
Thanks again.
#11
Originally Posted by NJSharkFan
Rog,
If I hadn't found that write-up, I was going to try to do my own with pics, maybe I still will, but either way I'll definitely post my results.
Thanks again.
If I hadn't found that write-up, I was going to try to do my own with pics, maybe I still will, but either way I'll definitely post my results.
Thanks again.
#12
Thread Starter
Craic Head
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 8,795
Likes: 6
From: Jersey Shore, USA
Angel,
I haven't gotten into the suspension yet, just got it through inspection about a week ago. Now it's looking like about 3-4 weeks before I get some time in there.
I'm still planning to rebuild the rack, it's going to be part of a PS-rebuild, upper and lower a-arm bushing/ball joint/boot redo.
Should be good, since I've never done any of this before...
I haven't gotten into the suspension yet, just got it through inspection about a week ago. Now it's looking like about 3-4 weeks before I get some time in there.
I'm still planning to rebuild the rack, it's going to be part of a PS-rebuild, upper and lower a-arm bushing/ball joint/boot redo.
Should be good, since I've never done any of this before...
#14
I have a couple of spare racks and started the rebuild ... but I found:
- existing rack failed because who installed my suspension/rack didn't instal the little plastic plug in front, letting dirt in there.
- the 81 rack has a different shaft .. seems I shouldn't use that?
- the 84 rack has rust pitting where the internal sweeper seals move over the shaft ... so I dount I should use that one. Tired to superfine sand that, but it's still pitted. Guess I'll be pulling my existing rack and rebuild it. Sigh!
- existing rack failed because who installed my suspension/rack didn't instal the little plastic plug in front, letting dirt in there.
- the 81 rack has a different shaft .. seems I shouldn't use that?
- the 84 rack has rust pitting where the internal sweeper seals move over the shaft ... so I dount I should use that one. Tired to superfine sand that, but it's still pitted. Guess I'll be pulling my existing rack and rebuild it. Sigh!
#15
I've put in new seals at the end of the rack several times. Sometimes it failed right away as it's hard to get the seal in well when you need to drive it backwards. I finally found that the rod was pitted way down the shaft where I didn't notice it. Only goes into the seal when near lock and I always remove the racks near center.
I've got the P/N for that seal somewhere and the one for the old-style PS pump, if anyone cares.
I've got the P/N for that seal somewhere and the one for the old-style PS pump, if anyone cares.