Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Help with shifter question? - Solved!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-26-2006, 10:01 PM
  #1  
Bus
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Help with shifter question? - Solved!

working on my '80 US 5-speed, and trying to tighten up the shifter action.

I've replaced the front cup, and removed and inspected the rear bushings. I was in process of replacing the bushings on the bottom of the lever this evening and they don't look too bad:


I saw what could be a problem though, the rod that the bushings slip on for the rear shaft is moving around in the shaft:

I think this could be by design, as the other rod is welded in and it may need this flexibility to keep the two in line.... I've searched through all the "bushing" threads and the short shifter threads and seen no mention of this moving around.

Also, is this worn out?

I'm thinking I may leave it and the springs out and use some washers and "E" clips instead, since this seems to be part of the short shifter upgrade anyway.

Last edited by Bus; 12-29-2006 at 12:06 AM.
Old 12-26-2006, 10:22 PM
  #2  
Panzer9
Pro
 
Panzer9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 671
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Just DITCH the original lever& hardware,& go with a Short Shifter. You won't have to struggle to get the springs back on , it tightens up the whole assembly. And furthermore it makes it much nicer to shift(about a 30% reduction in throw)- sits lower , looks cooler, on & on... PS Don't try to Ghetto Engineer it by simply hack-sawing the original- Just call Jim @ 928 Int'l. & He'll hook you up. Good Luck.
Old 12-26-2006, 10:59 PM
  #3  
Imo000
Captain Obvious
Super User
 
Imo000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,846
Received 338 Likes on 244 Posts
Default

I left the springs out of my original shifter and it works fine withouth them. The '85 shifter handle is shorter than the earlier ones, so you could look for one of those or could cut down your exisitng one to get a little shorter handle. There is nothing wrong with modifying what you have and this is not "Gehtto Engineering". Anyone can buy parts but making your own takes some effort.
Old 12-27-2006, 07:39 AM
  #4  
Bus
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for your contributions.

I'm still trying to figure out if that lower pin is supposed to "wobble" in the linkage arm or not?

Anyone been in there lately and remember?
Old 12-27-2006, 07:42 AM
  #5  
Vilhuer
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
Vilhuer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Posts: 9,378
Likes: 0
Received 60 Likes on 33 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bus
I'm still trying to figure out if that lower pin is supposed to "wobble" in the linkage arm or not?

Anyone been in there lately and remember?
Wobble is wrong. It should be solid.
Old 12-27-2006, 09:42 AM
  #6  
Bus
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Vilhuer
Wobble is wrong. It should be solid.
So, I guess I'll have to remove that rear linkage shaft and weld the head of the pin so it won't wobble anymore. I don't know how easy that will be to pull around the TT? Anyone ever done that before? Any other WYAIT tips?
Old 12-27-2006, 12:40 PM
  #7  
Bus
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Adding picture to further clarify.



So, do we think they just forgot to weld this one? Has anyone else noted if the head of the pin is welded on thier rear linkage shaft? The pin for the front shaft is welded.

This will be great if I can get it cleaned up... it's been far too much like my old 914 up to this point!
Old 12-27-2006, 12:41 PM
  #8  
Imo000
Captain Obvious
Super User
 
Imo000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,846
Received 338 Likes on 244 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bus
So, I guess I'll have to remove that rear linkage shaft and weld the head of the pin so it won't wobble anymore. I don't know how easy that will be to pull around the TT? Anyone ever done that before? Any other WYAIT tips?
You might be able to weld it where it is. Arc or MIG welding would be ideal for this situation. If the shifter rod can be rotated enough a pro could weld it fairly easily. A make shift heat shild will be a must for the wleding.
Old 12-27-2006, 06:34 PM
  #9  
Bus
Racer
Thread Starter
 
Bus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Imo000
You might be able to weld it where it is. Arc or MIG welding would be ideal for this situation. If the shifter rod can be rotated enough a pro could weld it fairly easily. A make shift heat shild will be a must for the wleding.
I'm a little worried about welding in there....

I still haven't heard of anyone taking the whole rear linkage out... I took off the coupler with the shaft in the car, but I'm unsure if I can get it out or not. May not be any big deal... (except for wrestling that dam rear coupler boot again!).
Old 12-27-2006, 06:52 PM
  #10  
marton
Drifting
 
marton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: zürich, switzerland
Posts: 2,233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

why do you not use some resin glue like Araldite? It is not exposed to extreme heat or excessive pressures?

A lot of modern cars and aeroplanes use glued parts....

Marton
Old 12-27-2006, 06:53 PM
  #11  
Imo000
Captain Obvious
Super User
 
Imo000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,846
Received 338 Likes on 244 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bus
I'm a little worried about welding in there....

I still haven't heard of anyone taking the whole rear linkage out... I took off the coupler with the shaft in the car, but I'm unsure if I can get it out or not. May not be any big deal... (except for wrestling that dam rear coupler boot again!).
Did you have to remove the exhaust to get to the rear coupler? Mine shifteris a littel loose too and I want to check the coupler at the back.
Old 12-27-2006, 09:44 PM
  #12  
Panzer9
Pro
 
Panzer9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 671
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Imo000
I left the springs out of my original shifter and it works fine withouth them. The '85 shifter handle is shorter than the earlier ones, so you could look for one of those or could cut down your exisitng one to get a little shorter handle. There is nothing wrong with modifying what you have and this is not "Gehtto Engineering". Anyone can buy parts but making your own takes some effort.

Didn't mean any insult if in fact you took a hack saw to yours The short throw shift kit actually reduces the geometry(arc) of the lever, plus it eliminates the springs for a very positive- notchy shift pattern, IMO.

Nice Donkey
Old 12-27-2006, 10:10 PM
  #13  
Imo000
Captain Obvious
Super User
 
Imo000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,846
Received 338 Likes on 244 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Panzer9
Didn't mean any insult if in fact you took a hack saw to yours The short throw shift kit actually reduces the geometry(arc) of the lever, plus it eliminates the springs for a very positive- notchy shift pattern, IMO.

Nice Donkey
Hey, no problem. It's hard to express certain things in writing.

Actually the '85 shifters are short (much shorter thatn the OB) from the factory. To make it a littel shorter, I didn't cut mine but rather pushed it through the shifter untill it almost touched the shift pattern button. The shifter "ball" was already cracked on the inside, so the handle slipped through it withouht any problems.

I'm aware of the difference between a short throw shifter and jsut a short-ened shifter, but for the early cars simply jsut cutting htem dow in size is a huge improvement that cost hext to nothing.
Old 12-27-2006, 10:59 PM
  #14  
Panzer9
Pro
 
Panzer9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 671
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thumbs up

Roger That!
Old 12-28-2006, 12:39 AM
  #15  
a4sfed928
Pro
 
a4sfed928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Summerville SC
Posts: 595
Received 11 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Most Pro drivers want the shifter as close to the wheel as possible for very little hand movement and I think Porsche had this intent with the long shifter in the OB. Has anyone tried to alter only the arc and not the length of the shifter? I think if the throw could be cut in half the tall lever would be a benefit. It would still look like a bus shifter though.


Quick Reply: Help with shifter question? - Solved!



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 06:28 AM.