Help with shifter question? - Solved!
#1
Racer
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Help with shifter question? - Solved!
working on my '80 US 5-speed, and trying to tighten up the shifter action.
I've replaced the front cup, and removed and inspected the rear bushings. I was in process of replacing the bushings on the bottom of the lever this evening and they don't look too bad:
I saw what could be a problem though, the rod that the bushings slip on for the rear shaft is moving around in the shaft:
I think this could be by design, as the other rod is welded in and it may need this flexibility to keep the two in line.... I've searched through all the "bushing" threads and the short shifter threads and seen no mention of this moving around.
Also, is this worn out?
I'm thinking I may leave it and the springs out and use some washers and "E" clips instead, since this seems to be part of the short shifter upgrade anyway.
I've replaced the front cup, and removed and inspected the rear bushings. I was in process of replacing the bushings on the bottom of the lever this evening and they don't look too bad:
I saw what could be a problem though, the rod that the bushings slip on for the rear shaft is moving around in the shaft:
I think this could be by design, as the other rod is welded in and it may need this flexibility to keep the two in line.... I've searched through all the "bushing" threads and the short shifter threads and seen no mention of this moving around.
Also, is this worn out?
I'm thinking I may leave it and the springs out and use some washers and "E" clips instead, since this seems to be part of the short shifter upgrade anyway.
Last edited by Bus; 12-29-2006 at 12:06 AM.
#2
Just DITCH the original lever& hardware,& go with a Short Shifter. You won't have to struggle to get the springs back on , it tightens up the whole assembly. And furthermore it makes it much nicer to shift(about a 30% reduction in throw)- sits lower , looks cooler, on & on... PS Don't try to Ghetto Engineer it by simply hack-sawing the original- Just call Jim @ 928 Int'l. & He'll hook you up. Good Luck.
#3
Captain Obvious
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I left the springs out of my original shifter and it works fine withouth them. The '85 shifter handle is shorter than the earlier ones, so you could look for one of those or could cut down your exisitng one to get a little shorter handle. There is nothing wrong with modifying what you have and this is not "Gehtto Engineering". Anyone can buy parts but making your own takes some effort.
#4
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Thanks for your contributions.
I'm still trying to figure out if that lower pin is supposed to "wobble" in the linkage arm or not?
Anyone been in there lately and remember?
I'm still trying to figure out if that lower pin is supposed to "wobble" in the linkage arm or not?
Anyone been in there lately and remember?
#5
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Originally Posted by Bus
I'm still trying to figure out if that lower pin is supposed to "wobble" in the linkage arm or not?
Anyone been in there lately and remember?
Anyone been in there lately and remember?
#6
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Originally Posted by Vilhuer
Wobble is wrong. It should be solid.
#7
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Adding picture to further clarify.
So, do we think they just forgot to weld this one? Has anyone else noted if the head of the pin is welded on thier rear linkage shaft? The pin for the front shaft is welded.
This will be great if I can get it cleaned up... it's been far too much like my old 914 up to this point!
So, do we think they just forgot to weld this one? Has anyone else noted if the head of the pin is welded on thier rear linkage shaft? The pin for the front shaft is welded.
This will be great if I can get it cleaned up... it's been far too much like my old 914 up to this point!
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#8
Captain Obvious
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Originally Posted by Bus
So, I guess I'll have to remove that rear linkage shaft and weld the head of the pin so it won't wobble anymore. I don't know how easy that will be to pull around the TT? Anyone ever done that before? Any other WYAIT tips?
#9
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Originally Posted by Imo000
You might be able to weld it where it is. Arc or MIG welding would be ideal for this situation. If the shifter rod can be rotated enough a pro could weld it fairly easily. A make shift heat shild will be a must for the wleding.
I still haven't heard of anyone taking the whole rear linkage out... I took off the coupler with the shaft in the car, but I'm unsure if I can get it out or not. May not be any big deal... (except for wrestling that dam rear coupler boot again!).
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why do you not use some resin glue like Araldite? It is not exposed to extreme heat or excessive pressures?
A lot of modern cars and aeroplanes use glued parts....
Marton
A lot of modern cars and aeroplanes use glued parts....
Marton
#11
Captain Obvious
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Originally Posted by Bus
I'm a little worried about welding in there....
I still haven't heard of anyone taking the whole rear linkage out... I took off the coupler with the shaft in the car, but I'm unsure if I can get it out or not. May not be any big deal... (except for wrestling that dam rear coupler boot again!).
I still haven't heard of anyone taking the whole rear linkage out... I took off the coupler with the shaft in the car, but I'm unsure if I can get it out or not. May not be any big deal... (except for wrestling that dam rear coupler boot again!).
#12
Originally Posted by Imo000
I left the springs out of my original shifter and it works fine withouth them. The '85 shifter handle is shorter than the earlier ones, so you could look for one of those or could cut down your exisitng one to get a little shorter handle. There is nothing wrong with modifying what you have and this is not "Gehtto Engineering". Anyone can buy parts but making your own takes some effort.
Didn't mean any insult if in fact you took a hack saw to yours The short throw shift kit actually reduces the geometry(arc) of the lever, plus it eliminates the springs for a very positive- notchy shift pattern, IMO.
Nice Donkey
#13
Captain Obvious
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Originally Posted by Panzer9
Didn't mean any insult if in fact you took a hack saw to yours The short throw shift kit actually reduces the geometry(arc) of the lever, plus it eliminates the springs for a very positive- notchy shift pattern, IMO.
Nice Donkey
Nice Donkey
Actually the '85 shifters are short (much shorter thatn the OB) from the factory. To make it a littel shorter, I didn't cut mine but rather pushed it through the shifter untill it almost touched the shift pattern button. The shifter "ball" was already cracked on the inside, so the handle slipped through it withouht any problems.
I'm aware of the difference between a short throw shifter and jsut a short-ened shifter, but for the early cars simply jsut cutting htem dow in size is a huge improvement that cost hext to nothing.
#15
Most Pro drivers want the shifter as close to the wheel as possible for very little hand movement and I think Porsche had this intent with the long shifter in the OB. Has anyone tried to alter only the arc and not the length of the shifter? I think if the throw could be cut in half the tall lever would be a benefit. It would still look like a bus shifter though.