Steam cleaners for chassis/wheelwell/interior (?) cleaning?
12-30-2006, 04:26 PM
#61
Nordschleife Master
How long does this take. I get that you steam the stuff and it loosens all the grit and dirt and oil, but it would smear or leave some residue. Whats the process for complete removal. So you steam everything, then gravity gets it to fall and whatever residual residue there is, is now loose and can just be blasted off with water or whats the procedure. And I would love to know how long it takes time wise. I assume its very quick.
12-30-2006, 10:36 PM
#62
Burning Brakes
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Hey guys.....had a really hectic, busy day so I'll give a more indepth reply to some questions tomorrow....I believe I also have more detailed pictures of my steamer in action that I can post up.
Take care,
Anthony
Take care,
Anthony
12-31-2006, 04:03 AM
#63
Under the Lift
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
I couldn't take Anthony's pictures any longer without doing something- Just picked up a lightly used Daimer 200S off of Ebay this morning, we'll see how it goes when/if it gets here.
Looks like it could make a mean expresso machine too.
12-31-2006, 03:29 PM
#64
Rennlist Member
Great deal there, Rob! There was nothing interesting on ebay when I made my purchase. You lucked out IMO!
Mine didn't help to remove the WP gasket at all, but it worked very well on the crud I had to deal with on the TB/WP project. In the attached pics, look at the tensioner, AC bracket, rear covers, and top of oil pan. I had the tensioner out when I cleaned it, but it cleaned right up. Most of the gear oil had leaked out and made a mess of things. I wasn't trying to get the same kind of results as Anthony, I was just trying to get things clean enough to spot future issues, and spent maybe 10 minutes on the front of the engine. I'll be spending a bit more time on it in the future, small sections at a time. As you can see, the mess I made was easily contained with a piece of cardboard, though a couple of Sunday papers would have done the job as well. I'll have more later...
Mine didn't help to remove the WP gasket at all, but it worked very well on the crud I had to deal with on the TB/WP project. In the attached pics, look at the tensioner, AC bracket, rear covers, and top of oil pan. I had the tensioner out when I cleaned it, but it cleaned right up. Most of the gear oil had leaked out and made a mess of things. I wasn't trying to get the same kind of results as Anthony, I was just trying to get things clean enough to spot future issues, and spent maybe 10 minutes on the front of the engine. I'll be spending a bit more time on it in the future, small sections at a time. As you can see, the mess I made was easily contained with a piece of cardboard, though a couple of Sunday papers would have done the job as well. I'll have more later...
12-31-2006, 08:06 PM
#65
Rennlist Member
Some follow-up info:
1) Cosmoline -- note that it just gets melted and pushed around. If you were to melt/scrape long enough, you might get somewhere with this, but you would need more patience than I have.
2) Dodge carb. Realistically, I can think of better ways to clean this, since it's already off the truck. In fact, vapor steam cleaner manufacturers will tell you it's the wrong tool for this job. But, as a worst-case scenario, it's interesting to note that stuff that the McCulloch steamer wouldn't touch(see post #39) came off in about 5 minutes with the Daimer unit.
3 & 4) 30 seconds on my ignition box -- Just wanted to show what a quick pass with the steam would do on more typical grunge. Using a towel as an extractor will probably net better results with less mess -- we'll see when I have more time to fool with it.
1) Cosmoline -- note that it just gets melted and pushed around. If you were to melt/scrape long enough, you might get somewhere with this, but you would need more patience than I have.
2) Dodge carb. Realistically, I can think of better ways to clean this, since it's already off the truck. In fact, vapor steam cleaner manufacturers will tell you it's the wrong tool for this job. But, as a worst-case scenario, it's interesting to note that stuff that the McCulloch steamer wouldn't touch(see post #39) came off in about 5 minutes with the Daimer unit.
3 & 4) 30 seconds on my ignition box -- Just wanted to show what a quick pass with the steam would do on more typical grunge. Using a towel as an extractor will probably net better results with less mess -- we'll see when I have more time to fool with it.
12-31-2006, 08:35 PM
#67
Rennlist Member
Yeah, actually that ignition box looked fabulous after I hit it with the steam, but the camera highlights every little smudge. I just went out and looked at it again, it looks practically new.... go figure.
I'm really interested to hear Anthony's thoughts on usage...
I'm really interested to hear Anthony's thoughts on usage...
12-31-2006, 09:25 PM
#68
Nordschleife Master
I gotta be honest with you, I am not that impressed. When I saw the pics of the 996 inner fender, I was all over Ebay pricing out units. I got the same results on engine parts as you dave with a brush and a good solvent. I think a solvent is best for engine parts too honestly, and anything underhood. I am also somewhat hesitant to use steam anywhere near an electrical system, the steam will get into places water wont and cause all kinds of oxidation to otherwise safe areas. I suspect you will see rapid errosion of many electrical components.
Again I love the wheel well pics, and would probably get one if i found that the guy doing them only spent 15 minutes on each wheel well, but if those results came after an hour or so, I would just stick with some sollvents and brushes. Most the crap in wheel wells is just dirt and grime. Nothing too hard. Cosmoline however is another story. For that though, just pick up a product zymol sells specifically for cosmoline. I used to use that on Euro M5's. They used to have cosmoline all over the gorgeous intake and cam covers. I forget what the zymol product is called but its made specifically for cosmoline.
Again I love the wheel well pics, and would probably get one if i found that the guy doing them only spent 15 minutes on each wheel well, but if those results came after an hour or so, I would just stick with some sollvents and brushes. Most the crap in wheel wells is just dirt and grime. Nothing too hard. Cosmoline however is another story. For that though, just pick up a product zymol sells specifically for cosmoline. I used to use that on Euro M5's. They used to have cosmoline all over the gorgeous intake and cam covers. I forget what the zymol product is called but its made specifically for cosmoline.
12-31-2006, 11:48 PM
#69
Rennlist Member
Ryan, couple points to keep in mind:
-I am a rank amateur with this thing, so it's very likely I'm not getting the most out of it.
-When you look at my pics vs the ones Anthony posted, remember that I posted pics of something I took a quick swipe at, Anthony posted pics of a job that was supposed to be as perfect as possible(else why call oneself a detailer).
-Whatever Anthony did after the steam contributed to the result; whether ArmorAll, WD-40, or something else, steam alone will not leave the plastic looking like that; at best it cleans it thoroughly -- it will not shine it up.
Solvent can be a problem itself, especially if wire insulation soaks in it. Water is an ever-present issue anyway IMHO. Think about how much moisture/steam there is in the engine bay when driving in the rain.
BTW, forgot to mention -- I measured 279°F inside the nozzle with the new unit, best reading I got with the McCulloch was 220°.
-I am a rank amateur with this thing, so it's very likely I'm not getting the most out of it.
-When you look at my pics vs the ones Anthony posted, remember that I posted pics of something I took a quick swipe at, Anthony posted pics of a job that was supposed to be as perfect as possible(else why call oneself a detailer).
-Whatever Anthony did after the steam contributed to the result; whether ArmorAll, WD-40, or something else, steam alone will not leave the plastic looking like that; at best it cleans it thoroughly -- it will not shine it up.
Solvent can be a problem itself, especially if wire insulation soaks in it. Water is an ever-present issue anyway IMHO. Think about how much moisture/steam there is in the engine bay when driving in the rain.
BTW, forgot to mention -- I measured 279°F inside the nozzle with the new unit, best reading I got with the McCulloch was 220°.
01-02-2007, 02:33 AM
#70
Rennlist Member
Took another swipe at it, this time using a detail brush with a towel. Looks better yet, but I can still see that I could use some tips from the master... Anthony?
01-02-2007, 03:39 AM
#72
Rennlist Member
Ron, I'd be surprised if it would be that easy to clean up major grunge. I don't think there is really a quick, easy solution that doesn't require a bit of elbow grease.
01-02-2007, 12:58 PM
#74
Burning Brakes
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Hello guys, sorry for my procrastination on getting back to this thread.....one of my New Year resolutions!
A good water-based degreaser is always vital to cleaning up grease and grime. I use a degreaser by Hi-Temp called "Extreme" and sold by Top Of The Line. I can dilute it as needed, depending on the item being cleaned. It can be used full strength or cut half and half with water.
For a greasy engine try and first warm the engine up for just a FEW minutes. You don't want it to run more than 5 minutes or else the degrease will just evaporate as you apply it. I let mine run about 3 minutes, shut it off and then spray water around the paint work and glass so as to dilute and degreaser overspray.
Start with the bottom area of the engine first. Spray the degreaser all over as much as you can and let it dwell for a few minutes. If all you have is brush power make sure you have several on hand. I use a soft metal bristle brush, a flagged wheel brush and several soft-medium toothbrushes. Work your way from the bottom, as far as you can reach, up to the top portions of the engine...rinsing as you go along with a flow of water.
Now if you have a steam vapor cleaner you can pretty much skip *most* of the manual scrubbing. The majority of gunk will come off with the steamer....this though is where psi comes in handy. Mine puts out 65 psi so it's rather potent.....and more than once I have burned the HELL out of my hands, arms and legs!! So be careful if using one. Same process applies though, start from the bottom and work your way up.
One may question..."If I start at the bottom then when I get to the top all the gunk will dirty up my cleaned areas?!"
True....BUT if you start at the top and work to the bottom you will remove all the bottom areas of degreaser, thus not allowing it to dwell properly. So start at the bottom and work your way up, you can always and should always rinse the area down after cleaning anyways. You can then use an aircompressor or electric leaf blower to blow the engine area dry.
Then dress the area with a water-based dressing of your choice.
The idea or purpose of a steam vapor cleaner is to clean an area "in detail". So my first plan of attack on dirty wheel wells would be:
1) Degreaser
2) Agitate with brush
3) Rinse
4) Use steamer to clean in detail the area
Now of course the steamer can also remove adhesives, emulsify candy, gum, coffee and tea. It will blast the gunk out of cup holders, unlock frozen dash buttons from spilled drinks and clean large glass windows to a sparkle. My kids clean the bathroom with it and they love it....so that's worth the price alone!
It does a great job on our tile kitchen floor also
Here is how I use it in the interior to clean large a large surface such as on this Lexus dash.
I also use the nozzle attachment for cleaning vents. This is set on low, and the moisture is then wiped up with a microfiber towel. It also disinfects as it cleans vents.
It can be used on low setting, covered with a mf towel, to clean headliners.
Tight hard to reach areas
And aso on tires and wheels.....the uses are too many to count.
Well I hope this answers some questions, if not please let me know and I'll do my best to reply.
Anthony
A good water-based degreaser is always vital to cleaning up grease and grime. I use a degreaser by Hi-Temp called "Extreme" and sold by Top Of The Line. I can dilute it as needed, depending on the item being cleaned. It can be used full strength or cut half and half with water.
For a greasy engine try and first warm the engine up for just a FEW minutes. You don't want it to run more than 5 minutes or else the degrease will just evaporate as you apply it. I let mine run about 3 minutes, shut it off and then spray water around the paint work and glass so as to dilute and degreaser overspray.
Start with the bottom area of the engine first. Spray the degreaser all over as much as you can and let it dwell for a few minutes. If all you have is brush power make sure you have several on hand. I use a soft metal bristle brush, a flagged wheel brush and several soft-medium toothbrushes. Work your way from the bottom, as far as you can reach, up to the top portions of the engine...rinsing as you go along with a flow of water.
Now if you have a steam vapor cleaner you can pretty much skip *most* of the manual scrubbing. The majority of gunk will come off with the steamer....this though is where psi comes in handy. Mine puts out 65 psi so it's rather potent.....and more than once I have burned the HELL out of my hands, arms and legs!! So be careful if using one. Same process applies though, start from the bottom and work your way up.
One may question..."If I start at the bottom then when I get to the top all the gunk will dirty up my cleaned areas?!"
True....BUT if you start at the top and work to the bottom you will remove all the bottom areas of degreaser, thus not allowing it to dwell properly. So start at the bottom and work your way up, you can always and should always rinse the area down after cleaning anyways. You can then use an aircompressor or electric leaf blower to blow the engine area dry.
Then dress the area with a water-based dressing of your choice.
The idea or purpose of a steam vapor cleaner is to clean an area "in detail". So my first plan of attack on dirty wheel wells would be:
1) Degreaser
2) Agitate with brush
3) Rinse
4) Use steamer to clean in detail the area
Now of course the steamer can also remove adhesives, emulsify candy, gum, coffee and tea. It will blast the gunk out of cup holders, unlock frozen dash buttons from spilled drinks and clean large glass windows to a sparkle. My kids clean the bathroom with it and they love it....so that's worth the price alone!
It does a great job on our tile kitchen floor also
Here is how I use it in the interior to clean large a large surface such as on this Lexus dash.
I also use the nozzle attachment for cleaning vents. This is set on low, and the moisture is then wiped up with a microfiber towel. It also disinfects as it cleans vents.
It can be used on low setting, covered with a mf towel, to clean headliners.
Tight hard to reach areas
And aso on tires and wheels.....the uses are too many to count.
Well I hope this answers some questions, if not please let me know and I'll do my best to reply.
Anthony
01-02-2007, 01:48 PM
#75
Rennlist Member
Oh man. I am a neat freak. This is not good. Now I will have to figure out how to afford one of these things. 
Thanks for the detailed write up Tony!
Ed
Thanks for the detailed write up Tony!
Ed