Ok NEW Dumb Question Time (removing brake caliper bolts - RV)
#1
Instructor
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Ok Here goes....
Are the bolts on the brake calipers left handed or right handed thread
I am changing the shoes and the bolts will not budge.
Are the bolts on the brake calipers left handed or right handed thread
I am changing the shoes and the bolts will not budge.
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Last edited by Randy V; 11-29-2006 at 01:21 PM.
#4
Fleet of Foot
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What year is your 928? 86.5 and newer, you do not need to remove the calipers in order to change the pads. To remove the rotors you will have to tho...
#5
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Originally Posted by Bill Swift
What year is your 928? 86.5 and newer, you do not need to remove the calipers in order to change the pads. To remove the rotors you will have to tho...
Is there a similar procedure to these cars or do i need to call some friends
Last edited by dfroelicher; 11-28-2006 at 08:58 PM.
#6
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does anyone have any wise owl advice about these darn things?
I guess i am going to try and find a breaker bar or something really big to hit it with.
The main question that i have is has anyone had this much trouble getting these off the car or did I get the special stuck one.
I guess i am going to try and find a breaker bar or something really big to hit it with.
The main question that i have is has anyone had this much trouble getting these off the car or did I get the special stuck one.
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#7
Three Wheelin'
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Never had a problem with the early models. 17mm socket, 3/8 breaker bar and a cheater pipe placed over it.
I guess once you've changed a few rear wheel bearings, there's no such thing as a frozen bolt.
I guess once you've changed a few rear wheel bearings, there's no such thing as a frozen bolt.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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they are standard thread bolts, go to the store and get a hammering wrench, it will be a box end with a nice large pad for hitting, or get a rachet and 19mm, put it on and use a 2 foot sniper bar, I have seen a few that have been VERY hard to get off.
#9
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If you have access to a smaller impact gun/wrench and a compressor, that will help. If you have it on a low setting. It would be much bolt friendlier than a breaker bar.
#11
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A few years ago, I had the exact same problem with one of the bolts on my front calipers (during a Big Red caliper upgrade). Wound up stripping it and had to drill the cap off. Of course once I had the cap off that allowed me to remove the caliper, and the remains of the bolt came out with little effort (Vicegrips as I recall).
![](http://www.ed.scherer.name/Porsche_928S4/6/project/thm_IMAGE040.jpg)
Of course, I didn't have my air impact wrench at the time, which I'm 99% sure would make quick work of it now should it happen again. Impacts (in conjunction with some PB Blaster or some such) are the way to go on those stuck bolts; lots of little impacts makes for less stress (and less damage) than the "put an NFL lineman at the end of a 10 ft. breaker bar" approach.
![](http://www.ed.scherer.name/Porsche_928S4/6/project/thm_IMAGE040.jpg)
Of course, I didn't have my air impact wrench at the time, which I'm 99% sure would make quick work of it now should it happen again. Impacts (in conjunction with some PB Blaster or some such) are the way to go on those stuck bolts; lots of little impacts makes for less stress (and less damage) than the "put an NFL lineman at the end of a 10 ft. breaker bar" approach.
#13
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As Sean said, you will have more success with an impact gun!
If the bolts are difficult, it is generally due to corrosion - not overtorquing: an impact gun creates the shock wave that helps break this bond without overstressing the bolt. Using a long cheater bar is a good way to twist the bolt in two.
Use a med. setting and work the bolt in both directions. If no access to air tools, sometimes a smart wack to the bolt head with a ball pein hammer will do the job.
If all else fails, have the bolts heated with an oxyaccetylene torch ( last resort - but it works).
If the bolts are difficult, it is generally due to corrosion - not overtorquing: an impact gun creates the shock wave that helps break this bond without overstressing the bolt. Using a long cheater bar is a good way to twist the bolt in two.
Use a med. setting and work the bolt in both directions. If no access to air tools, sometimes a smart wack to the bolt head with a ball pein hammer will do the job.
If all else fails, have the bolts heated with an oxyaccetylene torch ( last resort - but it works).
#14
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Originally Posted by Garth S
As Sean said, you will have more success with an impact gun!
If the bolts are difficult, it is generally due to corrosion - not overtorquing: an impact gun creates the shock wave that helps break this bond without overstressing the bolt. Using a long cheater bar is a good way to twist the bolt in two.
Use a med. setting and work the bolt in both directions. If no access to air tools, sometimes a smart wack to the bolt head with a ball pein hammer will do the job.
If all else fails, have the bolts heated with an oxyaccetylene torch ( last resort - but it works).
If the bolts are difficult, it is generally due to corrosion - not overtorquing: an impact gun creates the shock wave that helps break this bond without overstressing the bolt. Using a long cheater bar is a good way to twist the bolt in two.
Use a med. setting and work the bolt in both directions. If no access to air tools, sometimes a smart wack to the bolt head with a ball pein hammer will do the job.
If all else fails, have the bolts heated with an oxyaccetylene torch ( last resort - but it works).
Thank you for expanding on it.
#15
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There was new twist (to coin a phrase) on impact tools shown here recently - a Y shaped socket bar...check out here...
http://www.abc.net.au/newinventors/txt/s1754149.htm
As long as you can swing at it, it would be a very cheap way to loosen tough bolts....and easy to make your own for those with some equipment?
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
http://www.abc.net.au/newinventors/txt/s1754149.htm
As long as you can swing at it, it would be a very cheap way to loosen tough bolts....and easy to make your own for those with some equipment?
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k