Ok NEW Dumb Question Time (removing brake caliper bolts - RV)
#16
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Originally Posted by jpitman2
There was new twist (to coin a phrase) on impact tools shown here recently - a Y shaped socket bar...check out here...
http://www.abc.net.au/newinventors/txt/s1754149.htm
As long as you can swing at it, it would be a very cheap way to loosen tough bolts....and easy to make your own for those with some equipment?
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
http://www.abc.net.au/newinventors/txt/s1754149.htm
As long as you can swing at it, it would be a very cheap way to loosen tough bolts....and easy to make your own for those with some equipment?
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k
That is slick!!
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#19
Instructor
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ok guys thanks for all the ideas and help.
I went with my earlier approach and called a friend to come over and take turns whacking on the thing for a few minutes with a hammer and socket wrench, worked nice.
I am now however in another tough spot, let me start by saying that this is my first attempt to change the shoes on the car.
RED FLAG 1, after getting the procedure off of nichols list I noticed the line that said "now install the damper carefully", well I did not purchase said part.
How important is this little piece of adhesive steel and is it a real necessary part or can it be applied at a later time.
Will I damage anything if I forego the part and proceed without it.
Remember the name of the thread before bashing too much
.
I went with my earlier approach and called a friend to come over and take turns whacking on the thing for a few minutes with a hammer and socket wrench, worked nice.
I am now however in another tough spot, let me start by saying that this is my first attempt to change the shoes on the car.
RED FLAG 1, after getting the procedure off of nichols list I noticed the line that said "now install the damper carefully", well I did not purchase said part.
How important is this little piece of adhesive steel and is it a real necessary part or can it be applied at a later time.
Will I damage anything if I forego the part and proceed without it.
Remember the name of the thread before bashing too much
![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
#20
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Use the old ones. glue them to the back of the pad with ???? IIRC it has been said that permatex make some kind of high temp glue that works.
if you don't put them back the brakes will still work fine but they may squeal.
None of mine are glued in place - couldn't find anything like the right glue in NZ - but only one of the cars squeals and then only sometimes.
if you don't put them back the brakes will still work fine but they may squeal.
None of mine are glued in place - couldn't find anything like the right glue in NZ - but only one of the cars squeals and then only sometimes.
#21
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I must confess to never having used the dampers ( aka 'spiders') on any 928 pads, and that includes all three caliper types - fist, floating, and 4 piston brembo. Never had a set squeal yet, so don't worry. If you do have the old ones, Jon has the best advice.
What you may consider is taking a couple of swipes on the leading and trailing edges of each pad with a flat file. A narrow 45 deg. chamfer ( ~1mm) kills the vibration ( squeal) until the pads bed in. Also, get a tube of synthetic caliper lube, and 'moisten' all contact points of the pad backing plate, and the sliding surfaces of the caliper .... and the floating pins of the two halves: the latter is important, for I think you have the floating type.
On the back of the pads, I have had long term success by applying a smear of anti-seize grease in the piston/pad contact area.
What you may consider is taking a couple of swipes on the leading and trailing edges of each pad with a flat file. A narrow 45 deg. chamfer ( ~1mm) kills the vibration ( squeal) until the pads bed in. Also, get a tube of synthetic caliper lube, and 'moisten' all contact points of the pad backing plate, and the sliding surfaces of the caliper .... and the floating pins of the two halves: the latter is important, for I think you have the floating type.
On the back of the pads, I have had long term success by applying a smear of anti-seize grease in the piston/pad contact area.
#22
Drifting
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Originally Posted by Bill Swift
What year is your 928? 86.5 and newer, you do not need to remove the calipers in order to change the pads. To remove the rotors you will have to tho...
#23
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Well I have removed the calipers and the shoes and am looking at the idea of foregoing the damper plates.
I have the 83 and the thin piece of metal that glues to the back of the shoes looks like it will not be that hard to put in if they start squealing.
Also I was looking on the 928 Intl site and could not seem to find the part for my model, so I am really thinking that I will just forego the part.
Thank you all for your help and words of wisdom, you are what keeps the rest of us going with these beautiful cars.
I have the 83 and the thin piece of metal that glues to the back of the shoes looks like it will not be that hard to put in if they start squealing.
Also I was looking on the 928 Intl site and could not seem to find the part for my model, so I am really thinking that I will just forego the part.
Thank you all for your help and words of wisdom, you are what keeps the rest of us going with these beautiful cars.
#25
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I have not used the damper plates in 5 years. Use brake lube on any caliper parts upon which the pads move. That's all I do. Also, you can coat the back of the pads with some Brake Quiet goo Permatex makes.