To our European colleagues: Club Sport wheel question
#16
Race Director
Originally Posted by Cheburator
I have a set of the Turbo S wheels, which came off a crashed 1 German owner 944 Turbo S and they most certainly are 7" x 16". The only difference to normal 944 wheels is that these are forged and not cast like the D90s
#17
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by sweanders
Are the wheels you have Design90 (cast) or 951S (forged)?
#22
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I have a genuine set of 8" and 9" with RDK sensors on them.
And another set from the 951 Turbo S which is 7" front and the same 9" rears as the 928 used.(+two spare 9" rears so I could use 9" all around)
Yes they are forged and quite light as well.
And I think they are the best looking original 928 wheel.
Cheers/Peter
And another set from the 951 Turbo S which is 7" front and the same 9" rears as the 928 used.(+two spare 9" rears so I could use 9" all around)
Yes they are forged and quite light as well.
And I think they are the best looking original 928 wheel.
Cheers/Peter
#23
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My 88SE came (to me) with CS wheels with RDK sensors. It was owned by Porsche cars UK for it's 1st year - I presume when they sold it in '89 they put new wheels on it and by then only the 89GT version was available.
Definitely the best lookin stock 928 wheel but finding 245/45/16 tyres is becoming a problem. I haven't seen them on any other car.
Definitely the best lookin stock 928 wheel but finding 245/45/16 tyres is becoming a problem. I haven't seen them on any other car.
#25
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RC51
They look in nice condition - what's with the difference in colour between the wheels in the top photo? just the vagaries of digital cameras or are you in the process of stripping the anodising and re-polishing?
They look in nice condition - what's with the difference in colour between the wheels in the top photo? just the vagaries of digital cameras or are you in the process of stripping the anodising and re-polishing?
#26
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One wheel was polished and clear coated, and the other 3 weren't. Those pics are old. No annodizing left on any of them, but I have polished them to death now and done every area that can be seen. I have done the lug nut holes too. They look great, but I still have to clear coat them before they see brake dust.
#27
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My '89 GT club sports are polished and I have no trouble keeping them looking good without clearcoating. I use 'never-dull' once or twice a year. I've never had a problem with them dulling and they don't look much different before and after polishing with 'never-dull'. I don't use stock porsche pads however because they throw off a lot of dust. I should also say I run 18" wheels now so don't get confused looking at the avatar.
#28
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Has anyone ever reanodised these wheels if the original finish has been lost? I prefer the sheen of an anodised finish ( see pic), but have seen many of the forged 'flats' with a mottled and streaked finish in need of care.
#29
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sweanders said:
I don't think you are sweanders. I had an 8" club sport off of some kind of 951. It had a 52.3mm offset as opposed to the 60mm offset of the GT. I compared it side by side to the GT rim. What was interesting was that on the 951 CS 8" rim the offset numbers "52.3" were part of the forging, meaning the numerals were raised, where the GT's "60" had been stamped into the rim.
So, right again you are.
Crap, I hate being wrong..
So, right again you are.
#30
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Garth-
Your darn avatar is solely responsible for me starting this thread. I actaully bought a set of 8 and 9" CS rims from 928Intl today. They need to be re-anodized, and Mark is having them done for me, so I will definitely post pictures when I get them done. In addition, his machinist is going to tap 2 holes per wheel for the RDK sensors from my old chromed D90's so I can keep that functionality. If you look on the hub-side of a 928 wheel with an RDK sensor, there is a maybe 1mm high raised platform, maye 2 inches across, that the sensor lockring tightens against. The surface of the platform is NOT flat, however, it's radiused like the innder curvature of the rim. The US CS wheels do not have this little platform, but Mark's machinist doesn't think it'll be a problem. We're also working out the details on the offset differences (plus the 17 mm spacers in the rear) so that the holes are drilled in the right places so the sensors can still be 'seen' by the pickups ..
Speaking of spacers, I now need a set of 17 mm GT spacers. Dumb question, since I have no idea how spacers are set up: The PET lists studs that appear to be specific for the GT spacers (904.341.671.00, though DR's site lists them as 904.341.671.)05.
So do these studs thread into the spacer, which then fits over the stock wheel studs? And if so, do I need another 10 lug nuts to hold the spacer to the hub, then use my current 10 lug nuts to hold the wheel to the spacer?
Or is the hub-side face of the spacer machined so that these GT studs are just held in place by the spacer clamped against the face of the hub? Seems to me you'd want the studs screwed tightly into the spacer....
There are aftermarket spacers (like Boothe's 18mm spacers) that come with studs and chrome lug nuts. I ASSume the chrome lug nuts are used to hold the spacer to the hub, and then the factory black lugnuts are used to hold the wheel to the spacer?
Sorry for the dumb questions, but given the money I'm spending/spent today, I'd hate to get this wrong......
Your darn avatar is solely responsible for me starting this thread. I actaully bought a set of 8 and 9" CS rims from 928Intl today. They need to be re-anodized, and Mark is having them done for me, so I will definitely post pictures when I get them done. In addition, his machinist is going to tap 2 holes per wheel for the RDK sensors from my old chromed D90's so I can keep that functionality. If you look on the hub-side of a 928 wheel with an RDK sensor, there is a maybe 1mm high raised platform, maye 2 inches across, that the sensor lockring tightens against. The surface of the platform is NOT flat, however, it's radiused like the innder curvature of the rim. The US CS wheels do not have this little platform, but Mark's machinist doesn't think it'll be a problem. We're also working out the details on the offset differences (plus the 17 mm spacers in the rear) so that the holes are drilled in the right places so the sensors can still be 'seen' by the pickups ..
Speaking of spacers, I now need a set of 17 mm GT spacers. Dumb question, since I have no idea how spacers are set up: The PET lists studs that appear to be specific for the GT spacers (904.341.671.00, though DR's site lists them as 904.341.671.)05.
So do these studs thread into the spacer, which then fits over the stock wheel studs? And if so, do I need another 10 lug nuts to hold the spacer to the hub, then use my current 10 lug nuts to hold the wheel to the spacer?
Or is the hub-side face of the spacer machined so that these GT studs are just held in place by the spacer clamped against the face of the hub? Seems to me you'd want the studs screwed tightly into the spacer....
There are aftermarket spacers (like Boothe's 18mm spacers) that come with studs and chrome lug nuts. I ASSume the chrome lug nuts are used to hold the spacer to the hub, and then the factory black lugnuts are used to hold the wheel to the spacer?
Sorry for the dumb questions, but given the money I'm spending/spent today, I'd hate to get this wrong......