to-do list to make my 4.7l faster
#16
Inventor
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The easiest and least expensive route is weight. Your car weighs close to 3500lbs with you in it. You can get down to 3300 pretty easily. More if you don't care about comfort.
Dump the spare + tools, get a smaller battery, delete A/C + smog pumps. The list of stuff you can take out is long. The rear bumper and shocks are 40lbs! In my '81, I'm down to 3100lbs with me in the car, but there's not a lot left to remove easily, maybe another 40lbs.
Dump the spare + tools, get a smaller battery, delete A/C + smog pumps. The list of stuff you can take out is long. The rear bumper and shocks are 40lbs! In my '81, I'm down to 3100lbs with me in the car, but there's not a lot left to remove easily, maybe another 40lbs.
#17
Man of many SIGs
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Originally Posted by PorKen
The easiest and least expensive route is weight. Your car weighs close to 3500lbs with you in it. You can get down to 3300 pretty easily. More if you don't care about comfort.
Dump the spare + tools, get a smaller battery, delete A/C + smog pumps. The list of stuff you can take out is long. The rear bumper and shocks are 40lbs! In my '81, I'm down to 3100lbs with me in the car, but there's not a lot left to remove easily, maybe another 40lbs.
Dump the spare + tools, get a smaller battery, delete A/C + smog pumps. The list of stuff you can take out is long. The rear bumper and shocks are 40lbs! In my '81, I'm down to 3100lbs with me in the car, but there's not a lot left to remove easily, maybe another 40lbs.
Cedee, if you are interested in weight savings on your 928, there was a rather extensive thread discussing what everyone has done. You might want to check that out.
#19
Administrator - "Tyson"
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My 81 is stock except everything behind the seats is gone (tool kit, spare, carpet, pump etc..) came in at 3,300lbs with a full tank of gas. Also has manual sports seats - bit lighter than the power ones. No LSD, so that takes off a few pounds as well. 997 wheels weigh a bit more than stock, had those installed.
#1 performance upgrade on the early cars = exhaust. Even when new it was restrictive. Now add 25+ year old CAT that is a 70's design. Not a performance friendly combo.
#1 performance upgrade on the early cars = exhaust. Even when new it was restrictive. Now add 25+ year old CAT that is a 70's design. Not a performance friendly combo.
#20
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
The cast iron manifolds on the 16Vs are very restrictive. The cheapest upgrade is a set of OEM ’85-’86 32V headers. They are a direct fit to the head and require only a 1” extension to the passenger side Y pipe. There are others that done this modification to a 16V 928 with great success.
I have a pair for a sale ($200 + shipping). PM me if you are interested.
I have a pair for a sale ($200 + shipping). PM me if you are interested.
#23
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Adjust the throttle cable for full power.
I'd guess that 90% of the 928s on the road today have a stretched throttle cable, preventing full opening of the throttle body.
I'd guess that 90% of the 928s on the road today have a stretched throttle cable, preventing full opening of the throttle body.
#24
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by Randy V
Adjust the throttle cable for full power.
I'd guess that 90% of the 928s on the road today have a stretched throttle cable, preventing full opening of the throttle body.
I'd guess that 90% of the 928s on the road today have a stretched throttle cable, preventing full opening of the throttle body.
Originally Posted by tommytomaso
i remember a thread about adjusting the auto for crisper shifts...if its an auto box.
#26
Nordschleife Master
Those exhaust manifolds bolt up to the heads fine. They just don't mate up to the exhaust pipes.
The left side is close and will work. The right side needs a cut, splice and weld.
The left side is close and will work. The right side needs a cut, splice and weld.