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to-do list to make my 4.7l faster

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Old 11-27-2006, 12:47 AM
  #16  
PorKen
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The easiest and least expensive route is weight. Your car weighs close to 3500lbs with you in it. You can get down to 3300 pretty easily. More if you don't care about comfort.

Dump the spare + tools, get a smaller battery, delete A/C + smog pumps. The list of stuff you can take out is long. The rear bumper and shocks are 40lbs! In my '81, I'm down to 3100lbs with me in the car, but there's not a lot left to remove easily, maybe another 40lbs.
Old 11-27-2006, 08:36 AM
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Fabio421
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Originally Posted by PorKen
The easiest and least expensive route is weight. Your car weighs close to 3500lbs with you in it. You can get down to 3300 pretty easily. More if you don't care about comfort.

Dump the spare + tools, get a smaller battery, delete A/C + smog pumps. The list of stuff you can take out is long. The rear bumper and shocks are 40lbs! In my '81, I'm down to 3100lbs with me in the car, but there's not a lot left to remove easily, maybe another 40lbs.
I agree with the weight savings Ken. Deleting the A/C isn't an option here in FL.

Cedee, if you are interested in weight savings on your 928, there was a rather extensive thread discussing what everyone has done. You might want to check that out.
Old 11-27-2006, 12:11 PM
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danglerb
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Deleting the spare is something I am considering, not for weight, but its a dandy spot for a subwoofer without losing any space above.
Old 11-27-2006, 12:20 PM
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hacker-pschorr
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My 81 is stock except everything behind the seats is gone (tool kit, spare, carpet, pump etc..) came in at 3,300lbs with a full tank of gas. Also has manual sports seats - bit lighter than the power ones. No LSD, so that takes off a few pounds as well. 997 wheels weigh a bit more than stock, had those installed.

#1 performance upgrade on the early cars = exhaust. Even when new it was restrictive. Now add 25+ year old CAT that is a 70's design. Not a performance friendly combo.
Old 11-27-2006, 12:43 PM
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Imo000
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The cast iron manifolds on the 16Vs are very restrictive. The cheapest upgrade is a set of OEM ’85-’86 32V headers. They are a direct fit to the head and require only a 1” extension to the passenger side Y pipe. There are others that done this modification to a 16V 928 with great success.

I have a pair for a sale ($200 + shipping). PM me if you are interested.
Old 11-27-2006, 05:35 PM
  #21  
SMTCapeCod
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NAAAws! (Nitrous).
Old 11-27-2006, 05:59 PM
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tommytomaso
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i remember a thread about adjusting the auto for crisper shifts...if its an auto box.
Old 11-27-2006, 06:03 PM
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Randy V
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Adjust the throttle cable for full power.

I'd guess that 90% of the 928s on the road today have a stretched throttle cable, preventing full opening of the throttle body.
Old 11-28-2006, 07:49 PM
  #24  
ceedee
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Originally Posted by Randy V
Adjust the throttle cable for full power.

I'd guess that 90% of the 928s on the road today have a stretched throttle cable, preventing full opening of the throttle body.
Originally Posted by tommytomaso
i remember a thread about adjusting the auto for crisper shifts...if its an auto box.
do you remember a write up on how both is done? and what to watch out for?
Old 11-28-2006, 08:24 PM
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crackerfeet
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Wasn't there some discussion here a few days ago by Hacker and someone else saying that the 85-86 bolt up exhaust is a little more than bolt up
Old 11-28-2006, 08:29 PM
  #26  
GlenL
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Those exhaust manifolds bolt up to the heads fine. They just don't mate up to the exhaust pipes.
The left side is close and will work. The right side needs a cut, splice and weld.



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