I think the problem here is with your transmission- you're driving an automatic .

 

Ken does she have LSD? The conditions you describe are 928 killer conditions on an auto with LSD.

 

Mike,

Au contraire, Mssr., I sink zee problem is too much torque for zee miniscule 225s.
...

H,

Option list doesn't show it, and the wheels turn opposite way.
...

I'm just guessing here, but the 32V (and Euro '86 16V) have a ramp on the throttle body linkage, which opens the butterfly slowly at first, then 1:1. Maybe I got off the ramp, and that's where the tires spun.

Speaking of which, I wonder if it would feel faster, if the ramp were deleted somehow. Like the 944 aftermarket throttle cam.

 

Oh ****, he's on it again.

 

I can hear the little wheels and gears in his head turning from here...

 

Anyone else tried this yet?

I'm hesitant to unplug my broken sensor wires anymore, to test w/wo, for fear they'll break completely.

 

Porken,

I was planning to try it but I have to get through emissions first. I just found out I have to drop the exhaust to replace the 02 sensor, so I'm going to be driving illegal until the gaskets come in...

I'll let you know what happens with mine.

 

Ken, I'd love to try it, but the wiring is way too complicated for me... but I'd buy one if you build it...

Steve

 

It gets better! I made a 4.7K resistor harness, and the power is up!

I verified the resistance was going to the EZ-F, by measuring at the two ECU connectors. This had been bugging me. Anyhu, the diagram on page 3 is correct.

The amount of advance must be variable with the coolant temp. I tried without, with the 2.2K, and then the 4.7K. The engine was noticeably stronger even from 2.2 to 4.7, and much much better than without.

It might be best to have a 10K multi-turn pot. 32°F is 4.4K-6.8K At some point the EZ-F is going to see too much resistance, and switch to the fault mode -3°.

I noticed too, that if I push the pedal too far at low speed, far enough to hit the power throttle switch, the power goes down until the rpms come up. I reckon this is because the power switch makes the EZ-F retard by 20°.

 

I put in a 10K 15-turn resistor - dialed it all the way up to 10.5K - and it didn't feel any stronger. ~5K seems to be the max. The variable might be good in the summer - to dial it down if it pings - but I'm going to put the 4.7K back in, and call it good.

 

So Ken,

You wired a 4.7K resistor in series with one side of the temp 2 sensor? Which one was it?

I tried to follow the diagram but I'm not sure which one to try to tap it into. I'm game to give it a try, my car seems to have more pull cold than hot too, although I'm still working out some emissions issues, I might just give it a try.

 

Ken could you provide a "translation" for those of us who don't know what your wiring diagram means?
Which wires are connected to the resistor, and what are the other wires in your jumper connected to?
Sorry for the dumb questions, but I'd really like to try this. Ignorance is not always bliss.....

Steve

 

You could double the engineering time if you had PorKen and Shane from AK working together....both are McGiver clones. I'm not sure what would happen if you were to get that much creativity into one garage.

H2 (i.e., HH)

 

I meant to say "you could double the engineering PROGRESS and reduce the time", although if they got distracted by us lurkers it could result in delays I guess. I should learn from the carpenters... measure twice...cut once...but I'm always ahead of reason. It's a problem with me.

H2

 

Harvey - you can edit your post without an edited notice within 15mins of posting - click the button