Tweaking EZ-F?
11-21-2006, 09:50 PM
#17
Inventor
Rennlist Member
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Thread Starter
Seems to work! 
Take off is definately crisper with the bypass. There's a different sound too, that gutteral sound you get with more ignition advance. No audible(!) pinging - even with Chevron Plus (89?) gas.
I removed the bypass for a while, and noticed that on my engine temp gauge, response was more sluggish when the needle crossed the first white line. With the bypass, there was no change in performance.
...
I had some used male and female AMP Junior Timer parts from an L-Jet circuit I made. Straight through on the LH side, and plus 2.2K ohm on the EZF side.
If I can russle up some more parts, I might try adding 300-500 ohms on the Temp I, to raise the intake air temp retard threshold from 122° (the sensor has the same output specs as the Temp I & II). I guess I could just put a 2K resistor instead of the sensor, but I think a little retard at very high air temps would be safe.
The bulletin states that Temp I is used to retard 3° if air temp > 122°F "with closed full throttle contact and > 650 mbar intake pipe pressure".
Take off is definately crisper with the bypass. There's a different sound too, that gutteral sound you get with more ignition advance. No audible(!) pinging - even with Chevron Plus (89?) gas.
I removed the bypass for a while, and noticed that on my engine temp gauge, response was more sluggish when the needle crossed the first white line. With the bypass, there was no change in performance.
...
I had some used male and female AMP Junior Timer parts from an L-Jet circuit I made. Straight through on the LH side, and plus 2.2K ohm on the EZF side.
If I can russle up some more parts, I might try adding 300-500 ohms on the Temp I, to raise the intake air temp retard threshold from 122° (the sensor has the same output specs as the Temp I & II). I guess I could just put a 2K resistor instead of the sensor, but I think a little retard at very high air temps would be safe.
The bulletin states that Temp I is used to retard 3° if air temp > 122°F "with closed full throttle contact and > 650 mbar intake pipe pressure".
11-22-2006, 06:36 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Jadz928
John,
I assume that does not apply to the early LH of my 84?
I assume that does not apply to the early LH of my 84?
What type engine is your car ?
MY 85/86 32v will be covered by the first version of the LH2.2 ST
MY 84/86 Euro LH will be covered later.
What is your car ?
11-22-2006, 08:49 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
Ken, you have a PM 
Originally Posted by PorKen
Seems to work!
Take off is definately crisper with the bypass. There's a different sound too, that gutteral sound you get with more ignition advance. No audible(!) pinging - even with Chevron Plus (89?) gas.
I removed the bypass for a while, and noticed that on my engine temp gauge, response was more sluggish when the needle crossed the first white line. With the bypass, there was no change in performance.
...
I had some used male and female AMP Junior Timer parts from an L-Jet circuit I made. Straight through on the LH side, and plus 2.2K ohm on the EZF side.
If I can russle up some more parts, I might try adding 300-500 ohms on the Temp I, to raise the intake air temp retard threshold from 122° (the sensor has the same output specs as the Temp I & II). I guess I could just put a 2K resistor instead of the sensor, but I think a little retard at very high air temps would be safe.
The bulletin states that Temp I is used to retard 3° if air temp > 122°F "with closed full throttle contact and > 650 mbar intake pipe pressure".
Take off is definately crisper with the bypass. There's a different sound too, that gutteral sound you get with more ignition advance. No audible(!) pinging - even with Chevron Plus (89?) gas.
I removed the bypass for a while, and noticed that on my engine temp gauge, response was more sluggish when the needle crossed the first white line. With the bypass, there was no change in performance.
...
I had some used male and female AMP Junior Timer parts from an L-Jet circuit I made. Straight through on the LH side, and plus 2.2K ohm on the EZF side.
If I can russle up some more parts, I might try adding 300-500 ohms on the Temp I, to raise the intake air temp retard threshold from 122° (the sensor has the same output specs as the Temp I & II). I guess I could just put a 2K resistor instead of the sensor, but I think a little retard at very high air temps would be safe.
The bulletin states that Temp I is used to retard 3° if air temp > 122°F "with closed full throttle contact and > 650 mbar intake pipe pressure".
11-22-2006, 09:38 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by John Speake
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What type engine is your car ?
MY 85/86 32v will be covered by the first version of the LH2.2 ST
MY 84/86 Euro LH will be covered later.
What is your car ?
What type engine is your car ?
MY 85/86 32v will be covered by the first version of the LH2.2 ST
MY 84/86 Euro LH will be covered later.
What is your car ?
11-22-2006, 09:42 AM
#22
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Ft. Lauderdale FLORIDA
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Originally Posted by John Speake
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What type engine is your car ?
MY 85/86 32v will be covered by the first version of the LH2.2 ST
MY 84/86 Euro LH will be covered later.
What is your car ?
What type engine is your car ?
MY 85/86 32v will be covered by the first version of the LH2.2 ST
MY 84/86 Euro LH will be covered later.
What is your car ?
N!
11-22-2006, 10:42 AM
#23
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Originally Posted by John Speake
You'll be able to fully remap it to whatever you want when the LH2.2 ST is done.....
11-22-2006, 11:35 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by PorKen
Seems to work!
Take off is definately crisper with the bypass. There's a different sound too, that gutteral sound you get with more ignition advance. No audible(!) pinging - even with Chevron Plus (89?) gas.
I removed the bypass for a while, and noticed that on my engine temp gauge, response was more sluggish when the needle crossed the first white line. With the bypass, there was no change in performance.
...
I had some used male and female AMP Junior Timer parts from an L-Jet circuit I made. Straight through on the LH side, and plus 2.2K ohm on the EZF side.
If I can russle up some more parts, I might try adding 300-500 ohms on the Temp I, to raise the intake air temp retard threshold from 122° (the sensor has the same output specs as the Temp I & II). I guess I could just put a 2K resistor instead of the sensor, but I think a little retard at very high air temps would be safe.
The bulletin states that Temp I is used to retard 3° if air temp > 122°F "with closed full throttle contact and > 650 mbar intake pipe pressure".
Take off is definately crisper with the bypass. There's a different sound too, that gutteral sound you get with more ignition advance. No audible(!) pinging - even with Chevron Plus (89?) gas.
I removed the bypass for a while, and noticed that on my engine temp gauge, response was more sluggish when the needle crossed the first white line. With the bypass, there was no change in performance.
...
I had some used male and female AMP Junior Timer parts from an L-Jet circuit I made. Straight through on the LH side, and plus 2.2K ohm on the EZF side.
If I can russle up some more parts, I might try adding 300-500 ohms on the Temp I, to raise the intake air temp retard threshold from 122° (the sensor has the same output specs as the Temp I & II). I guess I could just put a 2K resistor instead of the sensor, but I think a little retard at very high air temps would be safe.
The bulletin states that Temp I is used to retard 3° if air temp > 122°F "with closed full throttle contact and > 650 mbar intake pipe pressure".
I've copied your info to use as a guide. I plan on adding an intercooler this winter (now have all the parts) I'll probably add an intake temp sending unit and gauge to keep an eye on intake temps.
11-22-2006, 11:46 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Imo000
Will it work on boosted early 32Vs?
The LH2.2 ST is being developed specifically for boosted early 32v and Euro LH.
BTW I would be careful about applying Ken's mod to a boosted 32v as you may get detonation and you don't have a knock control system to save your engine.
Sounds worthwhile on non- boosted cars :-) Another PorKen triumph !
11-22-2006, 11:57 AM
#28
Drifting
Originally Posted by svp928
Ken, can you make a parts list and sketch of what you did? This good stuff....
Steve
Steve
