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Torque Converter Bearing replacement

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Old 11-20-2006, 11:29 AM
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Perx
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Default Torque Converter Bearing replacement

Hey everyone, I'm in the middle of a LONG torque tube replacement project, and was recommended to replace the torque converter bearings while I'm in there.

I have the replacement bearings and found Tony's writeup:
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/torque2.htm

But it looks halfway down that I'll need help to pull the bearings. I assume I'll need that kind of help also -- what kind of machine shop will I be looking for and will it be obvious where the bearings are that I'll need them to pull for me?

Anyone else done this job? Is it hard?
Old 11-20-2006, 01:29 PM
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Tony
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I think any tranny shop or machine shop with a press can help you get them out. IRRC(its been ages) you need to get the new ones pressed in as well...order them and go to a shop and get both done at the same time?

While you have it out look into have the coverter stall changed slightly. Some have done it and report great performance results!

Dont forget the converter seals as well.
Old 11-20-2006, 02:26 PM
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RngTrtl
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Doing the TC bearings is pretty easy. I tapped the old ones out very very very carefully using a screw driver and rubber mallet working my way tirelessly around the bearing many times. Make a note to the WSM for the exploded of how the components (i.e. the flexplate, spacer, bearings and such) go together. I put the bearing in the freezer for a few hours and pu the TC cover in the oven on 250 or so for 10 minutes to expand the aluminum slightly, and then I tapped the new bearing in; once again very very very carefully. If you have the money, take it all to a shop and have them do it. If you dont, you can do it yourself if you are very careful not to score and/or maul the aluminum that holds the bearings or damage the new bearings.
Old 11-20-2006, 08:14 PM
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Thanks for the responses. I tried looking up converter stall to see what that's all about, but I don't quite get it. Is the bottom line that it would improve off-the-line performance? Does seem like mine is a bit sluggish off the line...

Also, regarding converter seals, would you consider that a 'must'?
Old 11-21-2006, 11:21 AM
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By increasing the stall speed of the TC, what you are doing is raising the rpm value that the TC "locks up" at. What this does is allow the TC to "slip" to a higher RPM. It is kinda like revving an engine to 3k rpm and then aggresively letting off of the clutch and flooring it. What you get is more power to the rear wheels (analogy using a manual tranny). with the stock stall speed , it is like do the same at about 2.5k RPM or so. So basically it raises the engine speed (i.e. TC speed) that goes into the tranny for a givin load....Others will chime in I hope with a more technical descripiton, but that is the basic idea.

Last edited by RngTrtl; 11-22-2006 at 11:47 AM.
Old 11-21-2006, 12:54 PM
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That totally makes sense. Thanks!
Old 11-25-2006, 01:55 AM
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OK, I got the torque tube replaced. BUT, I was so freakin tired after getting the torque tube out, and after the difficulties, I simply gave up on the torque converter bearings, let alone increasing the stall speed. Have I made a terrible mistake by not doing the bearings?

PS - no, I'm not done with the project -- still have a lot of suspension parts to put back.
Old 11-25-2006, 02:16 AM
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What's the rush? You didn't mention milage on the car. If its over 70K, then the torque converter bearings are going to start make bearing noise pretty soon. Shame to go to all that effort and not do those bearing too.

If the tranny pump and shaft seal show not signs of leaking, I'd skip replacing those seals. That's pretty optional.

How do the cooler lines look? Any signs of cracking?
Old 11-25-2006, 02:41 AM
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Borland, thanks for the reply.

No rush other than I'm a novice mechanic, I have 2 kids, and to get this far has taken a year and a half. The car has 45K miles.

Re the cooler lines - they do have a couple cracks. Looks like there are 2 layers of insulation, the inside layer looks good but there are a couple decent sized cracks in the outer layer. What does that mean?
Old 11-25-2006, 03:37 AM
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IMHO opinion, you will be making a grave mistake if you do not replace the TC carrier bearings while you have the TT out. Keep this is mind: your will have to take all that out again to get to the TC bearings when they do fail (and they will). Do you really feel like dropping the TT again?
Old 11-26-2006, 12:33 PM
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Nothing wrong about being a novice. Just take your time and if you think your not sure, just do some research or ask for advise here. Make sure you use a torque wrench and the prescribed WSM specified torque values.

The cooler lines take the most stress near the fittings. I wouldn't worry about the loose outer cover which doesn't see pressure, but if you bend the hoses at the fittings and see cracks at the outer layer, then you should replace them now.

At 45K, those converter bearings are probably ok. Wouldn't hurt to replace them now, but you could assume they might be fine. You really need a shop press to do those; I wouldn't recommend using a hammer. Consider how many miles you plan to put on the car. Another 40K and they will be shot.
Old 11-27-2006, 01:24 AM
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I realize I made a stupid mistake not doing the torque converter bearings -- I think in retrospect I would have had a mechanic do this job. Anyway, I'm not too down, I'm almost there. I'm a little fearful when I put stuff back I'll have a couple extra bolts and/or something won't work.



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