whitefox

Ok I bought a 12" subwoofer figuring it couldn't be that hard to install, my head unit is a Pioneer unit (DEH-2400F) and I have a factory amp installed.

I have an old JVC 200w amp that I tried to wire in, but I'm not sure if the amp itself even works, I didnt get anything from the sub.
There are four sets of speaker wires running from the head unit back to the amp, I don't see how I can add the sub. I dont really know what I'm doing so any help would be great.

Here is the installation manual and owners manual for the head unit:
http://www.pioneerelectronics.ca/pna...l?olderModel=Y

Bill Ball

Well, you could use the extra rear channel outputs you headunit offers and an amp that is 2 channel bridgeable to 1 channel output and that has a low-pass filter. Something like this, but with a 12 in sub, you may need more than 100W continuous.
http://www.everlasting-gifts.com/0/5079738.html

whitefox

Well I tried to hook up the old amp using those extra rear channel outputs but I didnt get anything out of the speaker. Is there any way to test the amp to see if its broken or should I purchase a new one and just try it.

chaadster

Are you sure those speaker outputs are live? Like Bill says, you should run RCA cable between the head unit and the amp. I'd start by doing that first, although a multimeter would allow you to check for output from the amp.

mspiegle

Quick stereo guide...

Your headunit is the source of sound obviously. The headunit has 2 ways to get that sound out.

1) high-level speaker outputs (something you would hook straight into a speaker)
2) low-level pre-outs (a clean signal you send to the amp via RCA cables)

For what you're trying to do, you should hook the rear/sub preout of your headunit to the amp via the RCA cables. Red = Right, White = left.

You'll also need to power the amp. Three things are required for power... +12, remote, and ground. +12 is a constant power source (hook straight to battery with inline fuse), the remote is a switchable +12 which tells the amp when to turn on. Then finally, you have the ground. If you don't have a remote wire in there, you can temporarilly jumper the remote connection to the +12 connection to get power and test the amp.

Depending on your amp, it could be 1, 2, or 4 channels. If it is 1-channel, you can just hook it straight into the sub. If it is 2 channels, then you can "bridge" the 2 channels by using the + of one channel, and the - on the other channel. If its a 4-channel amp, you will only be able to bridge 2 channels and the other 2 will goto waste.

Also... what kind of sub did you get? Some subs have 1 voice-coil, and some have 2. It changes things around a little.

What model is your amp?


EDIT: The page for your headunit just loaded. Your headunit has 1 pre-out pair. This makes things very simple. You'll need an preout cable which has 2 wires with RCA connectors on the end (left/right, white/red). You'll cable straight from the headunit to the INPUT on the amp. The only other thing you'll need is power and that amp should be able to power the sub. If you give model numbers for your amp/sub, i'll tell you how to wire it all together.

whitefox

JVC KS-A202, I didnt have the remote wire connected to a 12v source, I'm going to go try that now...

mspiegle

I couldn't find the manual for that unit, but I noticed some references to it being a 100+100 unit which means it's 2-channel. So, here's the deal...

You'll notice on the terminals something like:

(+)(-) (+)(-)

What you'll want to do is connect the First (+) to the (+) on the sub, the connect the LAST (-) to the (-) on the sub. There should be a small diagram on the amp which shows exactly which connections you use to create a "bridge". This will send the full 200watts into your sub by bridging 2 separate 100-watt channels.

Now, as bill said, 200 watts might not be enough for a 12". Generally, you want an amp that puts out MORE power than your sub to keep yourself from getting into clipped signals (whole different subject). It should suffice for now though... I ran a 10" off a 200watt just like you have for a while. I recently got a 600rms (1200 peak) mono-channel amp to drive that sub and it sounds 10x better.

whitefox

I think my amp is bad, I hooked everything up and I got a little bit of random noise from the speaker but no music (I've had the RCA cables hooked up the entire time). The speaker box says:

Rated Power:200 watts
Max Power:400 watts
Peak Power 800 watts

I will go buy a new amp or an amp at a pawn shop tomorrow, should I look for atleast a 200 watt amp?

danglerb

What I think works VERY well are the powered bass tubes from Bazooka, they even make one that looks like NO2. I have used them in a couple cars, and most likely that is what I will use in a 928. Worthy of special consideration is the CS8A5 http://www.abesofmaine.com/viewproduct.asp?id=bzcs8a5 which is $214 from Abes of Maine. Plugs in between the radio and speakers, which you can leave factory with good results, high passes (removes the bass that they don't do so well) boosts the doors and rears to a "real" 25 wpc, and sends all the bass via 100 watt amp to the 8" sub in the tube. Very tidy, and unless you are 15 years old all the bass you could want.

Mike Frye

Has anyone here got any experience with those subs that fit in a spare tire? I don't even know if it would fit in the 'collapsible' one we've got, but I was just wondering.

aircooler

Hi Mike,

I've made a couple of these rear audio units. This was how I housed the rear amps, and an Apline 12" Type R sub. The black unit was made for a car with black interior. My unit is matching blue carpet.

The whole assy is 6" higher then the rear hatch floor, so it is not a "drop in to spare" soulution.























Cheers,
Michael

Mike Frye

Michael,

That setup looks awesome!

Do you still carry a spare or no?

I'm hoping (someday) to follow in the footsteps of another 'lister whose name I forget . He did a 'rear seat delete' a short time ago and it came out really nice. I have a few ideas for slight differences but it's the same basic idea. I was just thinking if I could do the sub-in-the-spare technique, I could just put some kind of venting for the area so it would still sound good without having the sub showing right in the rear hatch.

Mine is my DD, so I can't put too much in the car that can be seen from the outside or it might be too tempting for those with 'sticky fingers' if you know what I mean. Kind of a 'stealth' shark .

Leslie 928 S2

A stealth shark? Is there such a thing? If you ask me, there isn't anything even remotely stealthy about these sleek, awesome vehicles. They stand out in a crowd no matter what they look like, DD beater or garage queen...

whitefox

Well it was the amp, I went to walmart and bought a cheap amp to test, everything works but now its obvious that my other speakers are 20 years old.

Time to go make a box

RicerSchnitzzle

Rather than make a box, you can seal in the spare tire well and use a 3/4" MDF sheet over top. It will leave you less than 1" over the stock look so carpet will fit back in place. Just cut a whole in the carpet to fit the sub through. The issue with the spare tire well is it's only about 1.5 cubic feet. Once you drop a full box in it, you're down to 1.25 or less. Then the sub itself displaces room, so you've got less than 1 cubic foot of working air in a sealed box. Not enough for most 12" subs to perform at their best. If you invert the sub and wire it backwards you will be back to 1.25. Just seal the well and use it as the box and you're back up just over 1.5 cubes. There is a HUGE difference in how well the sub will perform. Once the carpet's back down it will look very nice. Having the sub sticking out does kill some cargo space..

Here's mine with a 15" before replacing the carpet.


I'm going to do picks when it's fully wired, as it's just the mock up right now. Sealing the spare tire well is easy, with about $2 worth of pipe insulation and a hot glue gun. Some dynomat strips and you're pretty much done.

As for the rest of your speakers..to keep up with a sub, I would recommend a small 4 channel amp rather than using the built in amp in the head unit. Or run the fronts off the head unit and the rear off the RCA outs with the sub. Split the rca lead to both amps. On the sub amp use the built in low pass filter.

BTW Watercooler, Your set up is great! Very professional looking and leaves the car stock when removed. Very nice!