Mike Frye

Andrew,
Sorry, I just saw your other thread on the clutch. Didn't mean to bring up a sore subject. Glad you made it in time for the MI beer night.

I guess we can put this thread to bed, thanks for keeping it alive and for the advice as you went through some similar steps. I hope I don't need a clutch anytime soon, but if I do I'll look you up for advice.

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

Andrew,

Do those bearings look as coppery in real life as they do on my monitor? If so, I think they all look well worn, or am I missing something.

Mike,

The clutch is a (relaively) easy job.

SMTCapeCod

I'll remember that remark!

Andrew- I back-tracked through the thread but didn't see a reference-- did you go with the SPEC clutch? or 928MS? Impressions? More info needed!

AO

No, that's the lighting. They were perfectly gray.

I went with the Spec Stage 3+ clutch. And Stan's right... it was relatively easy. Here are the threads for the clutch. Read Thread 1 for impressions on the clutch.

Thread 1 - Ahhh F! I think I f'd my clutch! Warning to 5-speed boostards

Thread 2 - Pics of a glazed Flywheel & leaky RMS

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

Have you done a clutch yet? Getting everything out of the way takes most of the time. Of course I must admit, while my clutch is a dual disk, I have never dealt with an adjustment issue. It is also the same clutch that has been in the car since I got it in '89, including a dozen or so races and a few dozen track days.

Mike Frye

Stan,

Don't know who you addressed that question to. But since Andrew just finished one, I think it might be me?

I've done clutches before in several cars, but not a 928. I've always had to pull the engine to do it in the other cars, which I've read isn't required for this one, so I'm curious. Just not curious enough to try it until I need it.

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

Hi Mike,

Actually my response was to our Cape Cod Euro S owner

The clutch in the 928 is surprisingly simply. The american muscle cars I worked on in the past required dropping the transmission. In the 928 there is a shaft that once uncoupled is slid backwards disengaging the shaft from the pilot bearing and it comes right out. Also makes reassembly easier as you simply have to align the shaft into the pilot bearing. With the american muscle cars the transmission had to be aligned, which made it a much more difficult 1 person job.

I haven't found a task on a 928 that requires two people yet....

Mike Frye

Hey Stan,

Didn't mean to interrupt your hijack of my thread . Just kidding. I really appreciate all your advice whether it's addressed to me or not.

I'm glad the clutch isn't THAT difficult, and from what little I've read about it the only thing you have to do is wear a helmet so it doesn't knock you out when it drops.

As far as no two man jobs, I guess that assumes you've got the right one there .

Thanks again.

Tom928

This maybe a stupid question; however, after you replace rod bearings is there a seating or break-in period?

Bill Ball

Fully agree. I pressed it in using two plates drilled with holes for two flywheel bolts to pass through. Snug the bolts and the plates push it in.

AO

I thought about that, but then I would think I finally have it... pop! Persistence paid off in the end.

Don't know. I need to take it easy on the clutch for 450 miles or warranty will not apply, so I figure that should be a good break-in for the bearings too.

fraggle

Any need to mic anything or are the bearings a bolt-and-play proposition? It sounds like a relatively easy job if you're in there anyway...

Ed Hughes

Anytime you've got exposed machined surfaces like crank or rod journals, it's ALWAYS good to do a thorough visual inspection as well as measurements to assure that all is within spec.

MPDano

I was wondering that same question too. I never got into block work, but everything above the block (cylinder heads, etc.). I remember when I was a kid and my dad replaced Crank or Rod bearings, he used some type of gauge or putty. I was too young to understand nor had any interest at the time, so I didn't catch that lesson. Do you just buy the bearings and install, or are there choices in sizes? Also, kinda OT, but can you pull a piston and change rings through the bottom?

Ed Hughes

The stuff your dad used is Plastigage, it measures the clearance from the crank to the bearings.

I don't think you can pull the piston from the bottom with the crank in place. You'd do more harm than good, even if you could. Bearings are made in different sizes to account for machining that may be needed on a crank. If the crank has been machined, you'd have to go with the appropriate bearings. If it is stock, and you're using standard bearings, the Plastigage will confirm that the clearance is proper.