AO

Well as many of you know I was having issues with my 6 mos. old GTS clutch slipping. I ended up glazing the flywheel pretty bad (see below). Anyway, I got the clutch pack dropped yesterday and tonight I got those SOB flywheel bolts out.

Well when I got the flywheel off I noticed the RMS has been leaking, not a lot, but it's a bit wet in there. So here's my thoughts...

I'm gonna replace the RMS, and since I'm this far, I think I'm gonna do the oil pan gasket (I've got the Real Gasket replacement). And since I'll have the pan off, I guess I ought to do the rod bearings, and I might as well install a GTS baffle (I think).

Two main questions right now:

1. General perceptions ont he GTS baffle? Is this a good thing or not? Any alternatives I should consider?

2. Any other WYAITs?

This relatively simple clutch job is snowballing, but it's all stuff I think I need to do.

worf928

Looks like that flywheel has some grooving from a prior disc being worn to the rivets?

What did it look like before the SC and GTS PP? Any pics?

AO

Sorry, no pre-install pics. But it's not groved. The old friction disc was in pretty good shape, but that doesn't mean this it didn't happen as you suggest - maybe the clutch disc before that? But the flywheel feels pretty smooth without any gouges or groves per se.

worf928

OK. It just looks grooved in the pics.

I didn't mean to suggest the flywheel was glazed prior to the GTS PP. I was just interested in what a presumably non-glazed, but well-used flywheel might look like. (In fact, now that I think about it, I might have such a picture. Lemme see...)

AO

I replaced the pilot bearing 6 mos ago, so I think I'm good there, but I'm curious about your comment on the baffle. Can you please expand your comment?

(BTW, I need to go to bed, so I'll probably catch any further replies tomorrow AM)

pmotts

How are your motor mounts?
I seem to remember a discussion where the concensus was the GTS baffle really didn't help much, if at all.

69gaugeman

Good thing you did it at home, although it would have been easier on a hoist

I would have put it back together and delivered it to you (just ignore the extra 2500miles. Must have been a speedo glitch )

AO

Good morning everyone!

In the shower this morning, I was thinking of the order of steps I needed to go through and came across a question. Since I'm down for a day or two waiting on parts and the machine shop, I was thinking I might as well get started on dropping the cross member and oil pan (BTW, I replaced the motor mounts last fall. I should have done the oil pan gasket then .)

I'm planning on using the Roger Tyson method to support the front of the engine (aka 4x4 and chain). But just realized that I don't have the drive shaft connected. Will the upper bell-housing support the rear of the engine (~250-300 lbs) while I drop the cross member?

Wait a minute... Sorry for thinking out loud. I'd normally delete at this point but it might help someone in the future, so I'll just keep typing. I just realized that I can reconnect the driveshaft without the clutch pack and flywheel. And since I can't see how the drive shaft is going to support the eingine's weight, I guess the upper bell housing's bolts must be strong enough to support 1/2 the engine's weight. I guess I answered my own question.

Boy, isn't rennlist great?

AO

The clutch says it need to be broken in for 450 miles in stop and go / normal driving before any hard launches. So maybe it wouldn't be such a bad thing to have you drive it around first, since you drive like a girl!

69gaugeman

Danica Patrick is a girl!!!!!!!!!

Imo000

That flywheel looks as if the pressure plate didn’t have enough force to keep the disk from slipping. I’ve seen flywheels in similar shape but not as bad as this one. Usually the high spots are localized in a few areas and that’s it. In you case the entire surface is covers with high spots. I’m wondering if perhaps the material of the flywheel is defective. Sometimes if nickel or chrome gets into the casting (from using recycled metal) it will, over time, develop a few highs spots, but not nearly as many as in your pic.

Was the flywheel properly machined when the GTS kit went in?

AO

No.

Jim R.

Yikes, that is one unhappy looking flywheel. Mine definitely did not look that bad when I pulled it. Get that thing machined, there is a specific grit and feed rate in the WSM's somewhere-Garrity and Dave at motorsports did mine. It was suggested to me (did it) to replace the flywheel bolts, coupler bolts, and I would replace the pilot bearing again anyway--too cheap a part not to.

Have fun with the clutch break-in, it is real tough to keep your foot out of it.

Jim

Imo000

DOOH!!! So let me get this straight. You had a slipping clutch, THEN it was replaced with a brand new GTS kit but the flywheel was never machined?!?!?!?! What did the flywheel look like when the GTS kit was installed?

AO

In my own defense, it didn't look like it does in the pictures. No matter, I just dropped it off at a place that does flywheels, and other automotive machining.

I haven't looked at the GTS PP very closely, but I think it's fine. So maybe I didn't need the spec clutch... oh well, all should be good now.