BAD KICKDOWN SOLENOID?
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
BAD KICKDOWN SOLENOID?
I have two problems with my auto trans. first is Im only getting 5v at trans, kickdown swith and relay both have 12v. next i checked ohms at solenoid and its open I also jumped it with 12v to comfirm. Q does the trans solenoid go bad and if so does anyone have a used one i could have also any ideas on were my voltage drop could be? THKS. PS its an 85 trans that i placed in my 87,I also tranfered the solenoid to the 85 trans. THKS
#3
Drifting
I remember Steve Cattaneo had posted here, a procedure of how to activate the kickdown solenoid without starting engine. With the door open, full throttle, ..... can't remember the procedure. Someone may recall the procedure or the post.
Did you check the fuse for the kickdown? Or check the wire from the relay socket to the solenoid for possible short to ground?
I believe the solenoid is labeled 12V, so that's what you'd expect to find driving it. The relay uses a 12V power source.
Did you check the fuse for the kickdown? Or check the wire from the relay socket to the solenoid for possible short to ground?
I believe the solenoid is labeled 12V, so that's what you'd expect to find driving it. The relay uses a 12V power source.
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
yes 12v at relay but only 5v at solenoid, and solenoid it self reads open when checking the ohms. also i supplied 12v directly to solenoid and nothing happened, bad solenoid?
#6
Bad solenoids do happen. I had one in my Benz which uses the same transmission. The car would never start out in first, and the kickdown was very very lazy. It would also never kickdown into first.
On the Benz at least, the wire feeding the solenoid passes from one side, near the oil pan, to the other, so a common mistake is to trap the wire in the pan when changing the filter, resulting in the obvious.
On the Benz at least, the wire feeding the solenoid passes from one side, near the oil pan, to the other, so a common mistake is to trap the wire in the pan when changing the filter, resulting in the obvious.
#7
Rennlist Member
Solenods can stick open or closed. With no activity from yours when jumpered, replace it. Check for poor connections at the six wire connecror. Most likely poor or weak conection somewhere. A short to ground most likely would blow fuses. If you cannot find source of voltage drop, run a new wire. Although, it is best to find the real culprit. Good Luck !!!
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#9
Pro
Thread Starter
also how does the 85 auto trans kick down were the solenods is located there was something else in there but it did not look like a solenoid and had no external connector or wires to trigger it.
#10
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with door open and key on- pres down on accelerator till you fel switch then press down to activate switch- you should be able to hear the audible click of the solinoid.
#12
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not good- pull of the wire connector that goes to the switch an try to jump across connector with a short piece of wire- following same proceduer as before, but of course without pressing the switch, if this makes thesolinoid work, then you have a bad switch. If still not working check wires to rear of car for continuity- if both good, then bad solinoid.
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
yes 12v at relay but only 5v at solenoid, and solenoid it self reads open when checking the ohms. also i supplied 12v directly to solenoid and nothing happened, bad solenoid?
Ive order new solenoid
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Ive order new solenoid
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#14
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The electro magnetic solenoid body Ohms reading should be13.4.yes you have a bad solenoid, but were is the missing 12v that will be needed to activate the new solenoid. Which wire did you use to measure source volt at the solenoid.
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
well im missing 7volts im getting 5 volts at the solenoid. Im assuming that i have a voltage drop at the connector in the spare tire well. im going to check that tomarow, ive order a new solenoid.i also measured ohms across the solenoid terminals not the body, steve are you saying that i should be measuring from terminal to body of solenoid?