What's an indication of bad tie rods? Are there any inspections/checks that can be done?

 

I discovered a good sized dent in my driver's side tie rod this week while the car is up on ramps/stands in my garage. I'm thinking it's not good. I'm trying to find out the same info!

 

The standar way to test is to grab the tie rod with your hand and see if you can move it with a twisting motion. If it moves, replace it.

 

Jack up one wheel at a time, grip wheel at front and rear, and wriggle sideways. If play is found, it could be either the tie rod outer end OR the inner end or both, or rack loose in its mounts. A second person to look under or hold the outer joint as tightly as possible can help to localize the source of any slackness. Could also be wheel bearing, so check that as well.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k

 

This is pretty good, but since the rack is designed to move, it's really hard to isolate using this method. Get a steering rack centering bolt from DR (maybe Int'l sells it too?) for about $5. This bolts into the reack on the bottom where the little yellow cap is. The bolt will lock the rack at dead center and keep it from moving. Then you'll be able to tell if there is any slack. If the wheel moves when grabbing at 12 and 6, it's probably wheel bearing. If it moves only at 3 and 9 then it's either the inner ball joint, outer ball joint, or both.

If you discover bad ball joints, I have a number of posts on how to replace the outer ball joints without loosing your alignment. Do a search or send me a PM and I'll direct you.

 

Andrew got it perfect!

 

Even a blind squirel finds a nut now and then...

 

Check your rack's bushings while you're at it. Worn bushings will allow the whole steering assembly to move.

 

Andrew's check will also move the rack itself around on the internal bushings if they are loose. These are separate and distinct from the bushings that Big Dave mentions. In this context, what I mean by "rack" is the piece of steel that the tie rod ends screw onto, that slides side-to-side within the rack/pinion assembly.

You need to get underneath and pull back the boots to check these bushings for play and make sure you are not mistaking loose internal rack bushings for loose tie rod ends. I recommend using ramps, so the suspension is in its normal road position. Jacking can move ball joints out of their normal wear spot and make a loose joint seem tight.

 

If you suspect the inner rack end ball joints of slack, grip them tightly through the rubber boot and have somebody move the wheel gripped at 9 and 3, and you can usually feel movement in the joint. If you do my test with the other front wheel on the ground, and the steering column locked (key out) there should not be much movement of the rack IMHO.
jp 83 Euro S AT 50k