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Cost Effective Engine Support

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Old 10-15-2006, 10:48 AM
  #31  
H2
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Originally Posted by SharkSkin
I was a bit too paranoid to use the fan mount or any of the light-duty stuff on the front of the motor. M6 may have a high enough rating when considering single shear in steel, but they're in aluminum and who knows how close they may already be to breaking after nearly 30 years of unknown wrenching. The chains provided with the support were plenty long enough to wrap around the AC and PS brackets, which is what I used. It held in place solid as a rock.
Dave.

I like your setup. And what part (s) of the engine are you hooking to? Did you order an extra part or so to make this work? I also, am suspect of small bolts hooking into the aluminum WP.

Harvey
Old 10-15-2006, 11:00 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Hughett
Dave.

I like your setup. And what part (s) of the engine are you hooking to? Did you order an extra part or so to make this work? I also, am suspect of small bolts hooking into the aluminum WP.

Harvey
I like it too, where did you get the engine pick?
Old 10-15-2006, 01:00 PM
  #33  
Rob Edwards
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Here's the link to the one I bought.

FWIW, if you do buy this, the box it comes in will look like it got run over by the UPS truck a couple of times. Make sure you open the box and make sure the hardware parts bag is still inside. Carl's aware of the issue, but I'm not sure there's much to be done.
Old 10-15-2006, 02:31 PM
  #34  
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Why didn't y'all just weld up a steel bar to fit?
Old 10-15-2006, 04:12 PM
  #35  
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Like I said, I lifted by the AC bracket and the PS bracket. They did not flex at all when I put the assembly under tension. I didn't have to order any extra parts. Note that the hooks are set much lower than Rob's hook -- we have the exact same support. That's because the brackets I hooked to are much lower on the front of the engine.

I also bought from Carl, though I might have been able to save $10 buying elsewhere -- I like to support our 928 vendors where it's practical; I would not have paid double the competitor's price, but this made sense to me. The box I received was a little beat up too, but the parts bag was intact. If you need one of these order far enough in advance that you can resolve such issues without impacting your planned repair schedule.

Ken, eventually I will have a garage equipped to do that sort of thing. Where I'm living now, I'm not sure where I would put the welder!
Old 10-16-2006, 02:54 AM
  #36  
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I can see the pictures with my own eyes but I still don't believe that those fender seams can support a 350Kg(?) engine, safely and without even deforming slightly.
Old 10-16-2006, 02:59 AM
  #37  
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If you look closely at my picture, the forward 'foot' of each of the support legs is resting on one of the bolts holding the fender on, concentrating a good bit of the weight right on the bolt. No deformation or ill effects (so far....)
Old 10-16-2006, 03:23 AM
  #38  
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got nothing to do with the fender. The fenders are bolted to the unibody and that is what holds the engine up here. Also that same unibody holds the shock towers and crossbrace and everything else. So I think we're going to be fine
Old 10-16-2006, 03:26 AM
  #39  
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I agree with Dave that the water pump is an imbicillic mountt point for ANYTHING much less a hang point for the engine. But why not just use the provided engine hoist supports passenger front and driver rear? At least on the 32V cars it is so ....
Old 10-16-2006, 03:30 AM
  #40  
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Good point, Heinrich. So I guess I didn't need to be worrying about that too, when I set up the bar during the MM job. It's a wonder I ever try anything at all with this car. So much paranoia, so little time....
Old 10-16-2006, 03:38 AM
  #41  
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I moved the feet forward a bit, to avoid pinching hoses with the chains and to get the rubber feet to rest flat on the lip without having a bolt underneath. Obviously there is plenty of strength there.
Old 10-16-2006, 03:42 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by heinrich
I agree with Dave that the water pump is an imbicillic mountt point for ANYTHING much less a hang point for the engine. But why not just use the provided engine hoist supports passenger front and driver rear? At least on the 32V cars it is so ....
This bar does not work for diagonally arranged lift points. I did order another lift ring along with some other parts for the job, but when I saw that it goes on one of the head studs I decided to look at other options. I am from the camp that says you do not touch head bolts/nuts without good reason, and this wasn't a good enough reason IMHO.
Old 10-16-2006, 08:58 AM
  #43  
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Remember you are only supporting half the engine weight as the other halp is supported by the car via the torque tube and gearbox. Maybe 300/400Lbs max.
Porsche would not tell you to use this method or the center lift point if it was in any way unsafe.
There is no way that I would want to hang the front of the engine on the pullys.
Read the manual.
The proper support is fine if you have one handy, if you don't my method works fine.
I think I will now clean up the system by screwing the wooden feet to the cross frame and setting some pins into the top to secure the chain links. It will be good when we have more than one car to do at a time.
Some thin rubber under the feet would help to soften the footprint.
By the way with this method the horizontal bolts slid in with no problem, unlike all the ones I have done before with Schockis engine support.
As H said the postion of the feet is on top of the main car frame not the fender.
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Old 10-16-2006, 01:32 PM
  #44  
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I didn't have much trouble with the horizontal bolts either. Since I had put some tension on the engine initially, all I had to do when reinstalling the crossmember was snug up the engine mounts then use a small round bar to nudge the straps a bit... then it slid together just fine.
Old 10-24-2006, 10:14 AM
  #45  
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Does anyone know off hand what's the approximate width from fender to fender? I need to go shopping at lunch time and don't have the P-car with me.


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