H2

I'd be suprised if it slid forward...from what I can see of ROGs setup. MY only concern was the strength of the fender rails...but that appears to be a non issue.

Harvey

2V4V

Can you just not get a cherry picker in due to space constraints?

Regardless, the blocks are fully functional - had to do that once myself when my picker cylinder started leaking late at night...

ROG100

The chain is screwed to the 4X4 and tight. The only way the 4X4 could move forward is if the chain came loose or the engine itself moved - slightly improbable.
I normally use the hoist but thought this may be usefull to those who only do the job once.
Very very safe - or I guarantee neither John or myself would have got under the car.

Tony

Its been ages since i did mine (my old car) but my new one is due MM, pan gasket and rod bearings...and...and...

IRRC i supported mine from underneath near the front bell housing.

Ron_H

The fenders will not crush. The area of the wood is considerably more than the area of the support foot of Schocki's tool.

As for moving forward, the longitudinal member can slip relative to the blocks under it since the fender is sloping forward. The chain would only need to loosen slightly by the difference in the height of the fender between the present point of support and a few inches in front of it. If it was in California, I would not get under the car, because of seismic risk which we know can occur at any time here. Will it slip foward? Probably not. Will the unexpected happen? Probably not, but you fasten your seat belt nevertheless don't you. At least pin the support blocks to the crossmember to be certain it won't slip. That way we are more likely to meet at the next 928 OCIC.

Rob Edwards

I bought the one that Carl sells (from Carl, appropriately enough), and it worked just fine for my MM's:



It's now sitting in the garage, grossly underused. If anyone in SoCal wants to borrow it, just yell.

heinrich

I think I need to find one to use underneath for the alignment I'm about to have.

Garth S

That's the method that worked for me .....

SharkSkin

Rob, that's the exact tool that I used, though it has two supports. If any locals need to borrow it, they are welcome to. IMHO it's necessary to have something where you can adjust the tension -- a simple block of wood & chain may allow the engine to settle when the xmember is loosened, which will make it interesting trying to get the xmember back in position. YMMV.

Rob Edwards

Dave-

Yep, this one came with 2 supports as well, but I couldn't figure out where I could safely lift at 2 points on the block that were in the same plane. And I was paranoid about using the lift point that I did (shown in the pic), since that bracket is bolted to the WP with 2 small 6 mm hex bolts. But it worked just fine....

Ron_H

Rob, did you find that lifting point bolted to the water pump from Carl also? Dave's tool didn't seem to have one. IMO, two points are better to prevent twisting or rocking.

Rob Edwards

Ron-

If you mean the triangular engine bracket I've got the chain looped through, that piece appears to be present on all S4's, it's listed in the PET as 'shackle for transportation' # 928 101 412 03. (Sorry if I'm telling you the incredibly obvious- maybe it's not present on your 86.5?) Since it would seem that the bosses on the WP are strong enough to lift the front of the motor (and all years take the same WP), maybe someone could design some sort of plate that could be wider in order to get two chains on it.

I was really hesitant to lift at this single point, but I couldn't see where else to lift- I considered the crank pulleys briefly, but wasn't crazy about torquing on the crank either. It'd probably have been ok, but I didn't want to do the experiment.

soontobered84

Bill,
Roger does seem to replace motor mounts and TB's with shocking regularity. What was even more shocking to me ws that he had never used any air tools to disassemble the motor mounts,crossmember,steering rack et. al. from the engine. We used an air ratchet to speed things up and take some of the manual work out of the job and I think that even Roger was amazed how fast and easy it went.
By the way, the "stepson" drove like a different car with the new motor mounts. I would highly recommend checking the motor mounts on any 928.
Thanks to you Roger,
John Curry

jon928se

Good to be paranoid or at least give these things consideration. They're M8 bolts on both my 88SE and 90GT. To put it into perspective, 1 M8 bolt in single shear is about adequate to lift a whole 928, not sure about the lugs on the WP though.

I don't see how any of the lifting "beams" could slip forwards once attached to the lifting point. The radius the beam moves through on the fenders is far greater than the length of the chain. If the beam moved forwards the engine would lift up higher not go down.

SharkSkin

I was a bit too paranoid to use the fan mount or any of the light-duty stuff on the front of the motor. M6 may have a high enough rating when considering single shear in steel, but they're in aluminum and who knows how close they may already be to breaking after nearly 30 years of unknown wrenching. The chains provided with the support were plenty long enough to wrap around the AC and PS brackets, which is what I used. It held in place solid as a rock.