RyanPerrella

HOW TO?

I am trying to get the crank pulley and dampener off but am having a hell of a time doing this with the short block on he stand. I think ive found a way to lock the crank by having a bolt through the flywheel (through a hole thats used to mount the clutch pressure plate to the wlywheel) against a pipe thats held by the engine stand itself. So i think its locked pretty good, Ive got the 27mm socket on with an extension along witha breakerbar and a pipe on the end but cant manage to break it loose. i think i must have close to 200 ft/lbs on it, but the engne is starting to rotate on the stand, I can see the lone bolt i have locking the crank is bending, i dont care if its deformed i will replace it, but anyone have any other ideas for either locking the crank to unbolt this thing, or for breaking the bolt free itself?

Thanks

mark kibort

air tools!

mk

the flyin' scotsman

1/2" impact gun...........make sure the air compressor is set high o/p and add a little air tool lube to the gun before connecting the hose. It'll spin faster.

RyanPerrella

I tried my impact but i was somewhat hesitant what with the knocking trying to free it. This wont damage the crank at all with the vibrations from the impact huh?

jon928se

LOL Not unless you have a 300+hp rattle gun. If your rattle gun doesn't do the trick, you will pprobably need to

a) prop up the front of the engine (engine stand bolted to the bellhousing bolts ?)

b) Stop engine block turning - bolt a piece of 8x2 with some spacers to the engine mount bolts or similar strong point and park another car ontop of other end of 8x2

c) use a 3/4" drive 27mm socket and breaker bar with a 5' long scaffold tube over the bar to undo the bolt.

If b) is impractical enlist the help of about 4 (This was discussed a long time ago here and I think the answer was 4 but it may have been 6) good sized friends to stand on the engine stand while you undo the bolt.

You could put the engine back in the car..............................

You aren't the first

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/114781-removing-the-crank-pulley-bolt-the-hard-way.html

Bus

I was able to break mine on the stand a couple months ago, but I locked the flywheel, used big extension bar, and had a HUGE friend pulling in the opposite direction.

I was almost ready to put the engine on the floor and twist against the stand before he came over... the 26 year old never loosened bolt laughed at my impact gun...

Oh, beer and cursing helps... apparently.

Tony

build some sort of bracket you can mount to the back and attatch it to the bolts where the flywheel goes. Thats what i did. One shot wth the air wrench and it came right off. Trying by hand tends to nearly tip the stand over and move it all over the floor

RyanPerrella

Ok update

My pair of impact guns wont budge this thing. I have gotten the block steady though with a 2x4 under one of the motor mount boss's so it wont twist on the engine stand. That looked good but as soon as i got that end going, now the crank is rotating again as the bolt previously holding it is now bent.

Any other ideas for securing the crank from rotating in the block? I will try some other things but if any other ideas come up please let me know.

Thanks for all the previous responses

GlenL

Put a couple of bolts in the flywheel and a pipe between them. Then lock the pipe against the stand. (Maybe put the F/W back on.)

BTDT!

pmotts

I attached a come along from the engine stand turn bar to the frame and cut a pc of 2x4 and put it under the passenger side of the motor. This kept the engine from pivoting and eventually I was able to brwak the bolt loose.

Step one on removing the motor should be to break the crank bolt lose, this is a bear of a job with the motor removed.

dr bob

Ryan--

Come get the 3/4" air gun and socket. 400 lbs/ft. It might just do it if you have enough air.

RyanPerrella

Bob,

I think i will have to take you up on your offer if it still stands. I had resigned myself to leaving the timing belt and WP reinstall till after the engine was back in the car and when i could use the flywheel lock and a breaker bar. But its really dirty from all kinds of oil leaks and i want to clean this thing really good before it goes in the car, otherwise i will be less inclined to clean it up as i wont have much access to it. And obviously its allot easier to do all this stuff with the engine on a stand, so i would like to get it to the point where its complete on the stand, then i can just drop it in the car and be done with it.

dr bob

Ryan--

Timing could be just a tad bit worse, but you'd really have to work at it. We just returned from vacation yesterday afternoon, and I'm off to Florida tomorrow 7am out of Burbank. Two weeks or so there for a power plant restart with my software running it. Let me know if you need it when I get back, and we can hook up.

Sorry for the inconvenience!

RyanPerrella

sorry for the inconvenience, please none at all, thanks for the immediate response.

I hadnt seen you post in awhile and was curious what happened to you. I may not get around to it for 2 weeks honestly, i have a bunch of other stuff i can do so i may just wait. although i would like to meet up with you when you get back if possible. In the meantime i will try to figure out a new way to secure the block.

With the shock of the impact gun, as opposed to the gradual increase of torque when using a long breaker bar, that quick snap from the gun should break the bolt loose with less torque transfering into the engine and the stand right. Not sure if i worded this correctly but eventually i was pulling on the breaker bar that the stand started to lift off the ground, and then the torque i am applying is no longer going to the bolt but now trying to twist the entire engine & stand. At that point the bolt i had in the end of the flywheel sheared off. I would think the immediacy of the air tools would somewhat negate that twisting effect on everything else. Does that make sense?

Thanks Bob

jon928se

Nope torque still going to the bolt but just not enough mass x lever arm to resist hence the engine stand tries to fall over.

Forget the stand, bolt a 6"x2" to the flywheel about 6 feet long with end resting on the floor on the same side that your mega breaker bar is going down to the floor as you try to undo, extend your breaker bar to about 6 feet long with a scaffold tube - job done.

It has to be said that undoing the crank nut is easiest (engine in car) with a flywheel lock as it takes all of the elasticty out of the system